84 Hurst/Olds New Project

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So I picked up a pretty fresh 403 that was machined a few yrs back, although its probably good just the way it is I plan on all new bearings, rings and plugs just for the hell of it. I feel its better for my mind and I love the extra insurance. I'm thinking of added one of those main girdles I know im not gonna be making major power but like I said insurance is what im looking for as I dont want to be tearing this thing down because I got my foot all the way into it.
 

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Unless you plan on pushing deep into the 12s, 11s or faster a girdle isnt really needed. Yes the windowed mains arent as strog as solids but youre really going to have to beat the crap out of it to blow it up. Have you looked at the price of them? Personally I don't think your power expectations justify the cost, just my .02
 
86-blk442 said:
Unless you plan on pushing deep into the 12s, 11s or faster a girdle isnt really needed. Yes the windowed mains arent as strog as solids but youre really going to have to beat the crap out of it to blow it up. Have you looked at the price of them? Personally I don't think your power expectations justify the cost, just my .02

I saw some cheapos on ebay that may be worth trying they're made from 1045 billet steel for under 150$ with all hardware included. My tq at the crank should be north of 400 ft lbs with my #5 heads, roller tip rockers, cam, intake, and exhaust. Not world beating at all but cheap insurance is still insurance correct?
 
Yeah but I dont see a 403 being that weak. Look at the T/A's running them. When I was a Bill Trovato's we talked about a 403 he built running nitrous for a customer and iirc it was running mid/high 11s and was holding together no problem years later. As for the ebay girdle... Just remember you get what you pay for.
 
86-blk442 said:
Yeah but I dont see a 403 being that weak. Look at the T/A's running them. When I was a Bill Trovato's we talked about a 403 he built running nitrous for a customer and iirc it was running mid/high 11s and was holding together no problem years later. As for the ebay girdle... Just remember you get what you pay for.

Oh yeah thats all true I'm just super excited about the whole project starting to take shape.
 
Dropped the motor off at the shop for new bearings and possibly decking only to find out that I need to have it bored. Now I just gotta wait and see how much this is gonna cost me I cant wait to hear it run for the first time,
 
Don't bore it any more than you have to. They already have a hugh bore for big valves and deep breathing so the only thing you gain is a better seal. If you are buying pistons lightweight is the best insurance you can have at least on a 403. More than 40 over and they get too flimsy for anything but a stock rpm/applications. Limit your WOT shift points to 5,500 and you don't need anymore headaches er insurance.

Put your money in better pistons balance and good measure check assembly, and heads. Decent balance & assembly and good heads ie bowl match to bigger valves performance valvejob and proper valvetrain geometry and she will live and live and live unless you do something stupid to kill her. I know you add that up even without any bling or color coated name brand parts and you still spent more than you intended to. But at least you don't have to do it all at one time you can do it in steps. Plus when you are done you will never regret it nor will you ever have to appologise or make excuses when you press the loud pedal.

For me it was always immensely satisfying when I downplayed what I had and took the unsuspecting for a ride. The holy sh*t and I gotta get me one a these was well immensely satisfying. :mrgreen:

fwiw Its always better to have more heads than you need and less cam than more cam and not enough heads.
 
Its only going 20 over with KB dished, using the stock sized 1.875 valved #5 i had rebuilt already. Its gonna be a street car I don't see it ever hitting the track. I will order the comp roller tip rocker # cca-1441-kit today. I dont want people to be able to see that its not a 307, when the time comes hopefully I can duplicate other builds and keep the ecu components but man the cruise control is ugly as hell lol. At this point though I could go with flat tops and have the 4A's cleaned but I have about 940$ into my #5's and the #5's flow superior to the 4A's correct?

dogshit said:
Don't bore it any more than you have to. They already have a hugh bore for big valves and deep breathing so the only thing you gain is a better seal. If you are buying pistons lightweight is the best insurance you can have at least on a 403. More than 40 over and they get too flimsy for anything but a stock rpm/applications. Limit your WOT shift points to 5,500 and you don't need anymore headaches er insurance.

Put your money in better pistons balance and good measure check assembly, and heads. Decent balance & assembly and good heads ie bowl match to bigger valves performance valvejob and proper valvetrain geometry and she will live and live and live unless you do something stupid to kill her. I know you add that up even without any bling or color coated name brand parts and you still spent more than you intended to. But at least you don't have to do it all at one time you can do it in steps. Plus when you are done you will never regret it nor will you ever have to appologise or make excuses when you press the loud pedal.

For me it was always immensely satisfying when I downplayed what I had and took the unsuspecting for a ride. The holy sh*t and I gotta get me one a these was well immensely satisfying. :mrgreen:

fwiw Its always better to have more heads than you need and less cam than more cam and not enough heads.
 
Sorry I don't have any good info for you like these other fine folks......but hats off to you and your build! I'm def following it!
 
You need the basic cast pistons, unless you want 11 to 1. The KB 6 cc dish isn't big enough with #5 heads. The factory or replacement pistons are 18-21cc. Get the deep dish replacements in. 020" oversize.
 
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