BUILD THREAD 84 Hurst Olds - TechG8

techg8

techg8

Master Mechanic
Feb 29, 2012
411
163
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agreed. You are correct its the top of the car that "needs" paint.

I have considered painting just the top, down to a body line. Freshen up the black low panel, Then maybe a coat of clear on everything?

trouble is, there is some of the original paint that's on there that is checkering and getting ready to come off. top of the drivers door for example. also down the door a little. My thinking is that if some of it is coming up and off, then the rest isn't very far behind. why not take it all off and be done with it. shrug

I just don't know / haven't decided yet.

the interior is alright. I was thinking I would pull it to clean it up a little and to get access to the one hole in the drivers side floor for repair. Theres definitely a little mildew scent on the upholstery from sitting, and I thought I could clean that up while detailing.
 
techg8

techg8

Master Mechanic
Feb 29, 2012
411
163
43
The OZ transmission has operated well enough but I haven't really been flogging it.

It exhibits a slow engagement into gear when I go from park to any drive gear.

Being how I am, I know I wont be satisfied to run it as it is. So I dropped it out today so I can disassemble and inspect it. I likely will overhaul it while I am at it, because.....why not?

I will probably lift the engine as well so I can replace that rubber expansion plug under the headers.

I have to say though, I haven't done "heavy" work like this in a few years Id say, but the skills came right back. Got it done in short order without breaking anything.


dscn2210-jpg.101939
 
techg8

techg8

Master Mechanic
Feb 29, 2012
411
163
43
I took advantage of the mild temperatures.

Got the engine pulled and on the floor. It is remarkably clean. Makes me think it may have been gone thru.

I will likely use a dial indicator to check the lift, just out of curiosity. Maybe someone put a cam in there...

Not sure if I will keep the headers or if I will go back to manifolds.

Anyhow, I can access the oil filter easily now LOL with the headers removed.

So, an oil filter and change, a few gaskets, general cleanup, freeze plugs and Ill put it off to the side til spring.

I will feel a lot better about the drivetrain after this winter. It will no longer be unknown!

dscn2212-jpg.102306
 
84 W40

84 W40

Greasemonkey
Dec 9, 2009
233
268
43
The OZ transmission has operated well enough but I haven't really been flogging it.

It exhibits a slow engagement into gear when I go from park to any drive gear.

Being how I am, I know I wont be satisfied to run it as it is. So I dropped it out today so I can disassemble and inspect it. I likely will overhaul it while I am at it, because.....why not?

I will probably lift the engine as well so I can replace that rubber expansion plug under the headers.

I have to say though, I haven't done "heavy" work like this in a few years Id say, but the skills came right back. Got it done in short order without breaking anything.


View attachment 101939
That trans came out of 85 442, pink OZ trans plate tag. Make sure it has the correct OZ valve body, it should be stamped OZ and or has a pink/purple color paint mark on the valve body. Back in the day transmission shops would remove the performance valve body and replace it with a stock unit. I recommend rebuilding it with hard parts, expensive but well worth it.
 
techg8

techg8

Master Mechanic
Feb 29, 2012
411
163
43
Got the 307 up on the stand.

It actually had TWO of those rubber freeze plugs in it. So I will r&r the whole bunch.

I am also considering an AC delete. I just can't stand how the brackets clutter the front of the engine and the lines clutter the bay. Perhaps I'll decide last minute when the engine is reinstalled.

I dropped the oil and it was pretty black. Looked like the filter hadn't been changed in awhile too.

On a good note, the engine is quite dry. Not leaking or seeping much at all.
 
69hurstolds

69hurstolds

Royal Smart Person
Jan 2, 2006
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While it is out, if'n it were me, I would change out that intake gasket. I know the adage if it ain't broke... but if you end up with a coolant leak on the engine, most likely it'll start at one of the corners...and it will suck to do it in the car. Off the car you could be done within an hour.

Only reason I'm suggesting it is that you're replacing the freeze plugs, so it leads me to believe there may be other internal corrosions to cause rubber plugs to be installed, and the intake to head coolant leaks are more common than people realize with the aluminum intakes.

Not suggesting you rebuild the entire engine, but it's super accessible right now for the intake gasket. Just free advice to think about.
 
olds307 and 403

olds307 and 403

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 14, 2008
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Melville,Saskatchewan
I personally have never had or seen any issues with aluminum intakes leaking on Olds V8's. But other than later swirl port 307's or the very few Vin 9 cars, most factory cars had factory iron intakes up here. I honestly can think of seeing any A4 intakes on early 307's, seen a couple of dozen, other than a 83 HO. All were #17 iron intakes, so I haven't had them on the motors for 20 years.
 
69hurstolds

69hurstolds

Royal Smart Person
Jan 2, 2006
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I personally have never had or seen any issues with aluminum intakes leaking on Olds V8's. But other than later swirl port 307's or the very few Vin 9 cars, most factory cars had factory iron intakes up here. I honestly can think of seeing any A4 intakes on early 307's, seen a couple of dozen, other than a 83 HO. All were #17 iron intakes, so I haven't had them on the motors for 20 years.
I was only talking about this application, this particular VIN 9 engine sitting right there on the hoist. It's an aluminum Olds A4 intake and those are iron Olds heads. If it has the steel intake gasket, there's a lot of galvanic corrosion potential there. Could be lucky, and if so, great. It's only a suggestion. Plus you get a good look at the guts of the engine while the intake is off. No moving parts involved so I would consider it cheap insurance. But hey, that's just me.

It's true that iron intakes/heads usually don't have these issues. But the factory aluminum intakes are prone to "corner leakage". It's not rampant like the measles or something, but it's a real, potential threat. Most of the time it's seepage. Until it gets worse. Once you start noticing the drips on the floor, it's well on its way.
 
olds307 and 403

olds307 and 403

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 14, 2008
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Melville,Saskatchewan
I am not saying you are wrong and it is not a bad suggestion, I know some have had issues. I would personally keep the headers unless they are leaking and or rotten. I personally think the lousy "performance" exhaust crippled these cars. Ford stuck shorty headers and dual exhaust on the Mustang exhaust, it added a good few hp, look at 84 to 85. Look at FE3X prototype, ram air, shorty headers and a proper crossover pipe made 30 hp. You could go with something like the Thornton shorties and say they are FE3X prototype headers:).
 
techg8

techg8

Master Mechanic
Feb 29, 2012
411
163
43
When I got the car it had a performer rpm intake on it.

I installed the a4 a couple years back, so the intake has been resealed. Thanks for the suggestion though.
 

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