BUILD THREAD 84 Hurst Olds - TechG8
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Need a new battery and a Transmission fluid/filter change today, stop a few leaks, but yes I plan to drive the wheels off it while I work on it.
The brakes feel great.
The transmission is shifting well so far.
I think I am going to hypertech chip the ECM once I get it reliable as a driver. Ive got a BBB455 built I could drop in (because torque, right?) but I really want to keep it on the CCC system and original. Its just a cool, fun car for me.
Ill probably take it to the track and do some testing with qjet mods and the chip ECM to see how it does. I decided I am NOT going to nitrous it. I couldn't bear to drill the holes in the solid trunk to mount the bottle. I even sold my nitrous kit so I wouldn't be tempted anymore.
The rally pack gages aren't working and the tach was reading double, so I removed the gagepod to take a look
Seems its got the typical troubles with loose nuts and bad connections.
But someone had also been in there...check out the soldered wire connection to repair a damaged conductor.
Anyone have suggestions on how to effectively repair the damaged conductor?
Seems its got the typical troubles with loose nuts and bad connections.
But someone had also been in there...check out the soldered wire connection to repair a damaged conductor.
Anyone have suggestions on how to effectively repair the damaged conductor?
Save yourself time and money dont buy it. You can achieve the same results or better by disconnecting the coolant temperature sensor located on the intake in front of the engine on a olds 307.There will be two the one you want to disconnect is close to the alternator. The other sensor next to the thermostat housing is for your temperature gage. The purpose of the sensor close to the alternator is to give an engine temperature feedback to the ecm or computer and match it to the air / fuel and timing table. When you disconnect it the ecm thinks that the engine is cold at all times and richens the fuel mixture on the primary side and advances the timing. Your not going shave of 5 seconds of your time but maybe a few tenths of a second. Not bad since its free. Myself and others were doing this in the mid 80's, I learned alot at the GM tech school back then. A few years later I think it was 1988 a magazine wrote an article about performance chips how some had no data on them just blank. I think i have that magazine still i will look for it.
It can be fixed done many of them its just tedious work and you will need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and copper tape. Tape can be purchased in different widths.
Rally pack gages operational!
I couldn't come up with a better repair for the circuit sheet, so I soldered a jumper and tucked it in close so it wouldn't catch on anything on install.
pic attached.
I put in all new light bulbs, and cleaned and tightened the contacts.
I also took 000 steel wool to the wire harness connections to remove old age and varnish.
Reinstalled, the tach now reads steady and normal. ALL of my gages work properly.
I am glad this was the fix....I had feared that mice had eaten the harness or something.
I couldn't come up with a better repair for the circuit sheet, so I soldered a jumper and tucked it in close so it wouldn't catch on anything on install.
pic attached.
I put in all new light bulbs, and cleaned and tightened the contacts.
I also took 000 steel wool to the wire harness connections to remove old age and varnish.
Reinstalled, the tach now reads steady and normal. ALL of my gages work properly.
I am glad this was the fix....I had feared that mice had eaten the harness or something.
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