Updates!
So I installed the trans cooler today, true cool 40k, bypassed the radiator because this is only a summer car, won’t see temperatures below 32, and yes I’ve read every single thing about about using the radiator water cools better first and what not, but for me I would rather not risk any cross contamination with an off brand radiator, temps are pretty stable at 140, shifts are nice and smooth, over all huge difference in drivability and the way the trans reacts.
called fitech and it came out to be a bad map sensor, key on should read around 90-100 kph, mine was shorted out internally or just crapped the bed, key on it would be at 90, and than jump around all over the place after 2-5 seconds,
Standard part number replacement is 12592525
FROM WHAT IVE LEARNED WITH USING THE FITECH ULTIMATE LS-
REPLACE ALL THE CHEAP CRAP SENSORS THE KIT COMES WITH!!
I’ve changed the tps, now map, and going to do the iac as well, every single one went bad within 3 months of use
So I installed the trans cooler today, true cool 40k, bypassed the radiator because this is only a summer car, won’t see temperatures below 32, and yes I’ve read every single thing about about using the radiator water cools better first and what not, but for me I would rather not risk any cross contamination with an off brand radiator, temps are pretty stable at 140, shifts are nice and smooth, over all huge difference in drivability and the way the trans reacts.
called fitech and it came out to be a bad map sensor, key on should read around 90-100 kph, mine was shorted out internally or just crapped the bed, key on it would be at 90, and than jump around all over the place after 2-5 seconds,
Standard part number replacement is 12592525
FROM WHAT IVE LEARNED WITH USING THE FITECH ULTIMATE LS-
REPLACE ALL THE CHEAP CRAP SENSORS THE KIT COMES WITH!!
I’ve changed the tps, now map, and going to do the iac as well, every single one went bad within 3 months of use
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