BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
I don't have a spring tensioner since i redid the drives and use the old location for now the blower belt.
I use the added pulley that sits between the alternator and PS pump and take the slack out like you would do on a V belt. I just havn't done that yet.
I use the added pulley that sits between the alternator and PS pump and take the slack out like you would do on a V belt. I just havn't done that yet.
I make progress from time to time 
Spring finally showed up and i'm trying to get ready to drive this by the end of the month. I did spend like 2 hrs last night rotating the tires and changing oil on my rainier so I lost a bit of progress. Also had my AC belt start making noise a month ago. I assumed it was the compressor going out since I replaced it 4 years ago when I bought the rainier. Was driving this weekend and it sounded like a bunch of marbles in a soup can. Turned out the tensioner locked up and it just spit the belt. Got lucky there! I even had a spare tensioner sitting in my tool box from a few years back so all it cost was a $10 belt. Sometimes you win sometimes you loose! Anyways back on track.
My heat exchanger and pump showed up. Got some brackets made and painted. Didn't even drill any holes in the core support! It fit right between the bumper, core support, and front support bar like GM knew someone would be installing something there 30 years down the road!
Did a tiny bit of welding i mean slag depositing with my free loaner harbor fright flux core. Total junk but anything free is worth saving up for. And yeah, my welding helmet is worth more than the welder haha
And I don't think i've ever showed it here, but my little paint booth. I build models in my spare time and have this 3ft cube booth I use to paint everything in.
Spring finally showed up and i'm trying to get ready to drive this by the end of the month. I did spend like 2 hrs last night rotating the tires and changing oil on my rainier so I lost a bit of progress. Also had my AC belt start making noise a month ago. I assumed it was the compressor going out since I replaced it 4 years ago when I bought the rainier. Was driving this weekend and it sounded like a bunch of marbles in a soup can. Turned out the tensioner locked up and it just spit the belt. Got lucky there! I even had a spare tensioner sitting in my tool box from a few years back so all it cost was a $10 belt. Sometimes you win sometimes you loose! Anyways back on track. My heat exchanger and pump showed up. Got some brackets made and painted. Didn't even drill any holes in the core support! It fit right between the bumper, core support, and front support bar like GM knew someone would be installing something there 30 years down the road!
Did a tiny bit of welding i mean slag depositing with my free loaner harbor fright flux core. Total junk but anything free is worth saving up for. And yeah, my welding helmet is worth more than the welder haha
And I don't think i've ever showed it here, but my little paint booth. I build models in my spare time and have this 3ft cube booth I use to paint everything in.
And yet again its like GM planned this stuff to be there. Best part about G bodies, tons of room everywhere for all the random stuff!
Had some 1" angle iron sitting around, used the 2 bolts on the frame where the bumper shock mounts to, and used a 2 1/4" muffler clamp to make a clamp for the IC pump. Just used some hose as an isolator. Also ran a few of the hoses and put the rad and fans back in.
I also found out why my lower rad hose has always fit funny. Its the 85ish ford E van with the 300 I6 one. People say it fits awesome but always hit my frame and steering link bracket. It was for sure not fitting with the AC pump in. Took it off and was going to trim it. put it back on flipped and it fits awesome its been backwards for the last 2.5 years. Doh!
Pleased as punch!
Had some 1" angle iron sitting around, used the 2 bolts on the frame where the bumper shock mounts to, and used a 2 1/4" muffler clamp to make a clamp for the IC pump. Just used some hose as an isolator. Also ran a few of the hoses and put the rad and fans back in.
I also found out why my lower rad hose has always fit funny. Its the 85ish ford E van with the 300 I6 one. People say it fits awesome but always hit my frame and steering link bracket. It was for sure not fitting with the AC pump in. Took it off and was going to trim it. put it back on flipped and it fits awesome its been backwards for the last 2.5 years. Doh!
Pleased as punch!
Got it all back together this weekend and it runs!
Had an issue Friday night, couldnt get it to start. Turned out I pinched the cam sensor wiring in between the ground bolt and cut one of the wires. Couldn't figure out why I didn't have fuel or spark. Soldered it back together and its good now! Changed laptops this winter and had to re install HP tuners and reset all my math parameters to get the wideband to feed through the EGR correctly and get my fuel error chart to work. Darn parentheses and math forumas werent working! Also forgot to tighten one of my fuel rail fittings and for the life of me couldnt figure out why i had fuel everywhere. Check fittings before you change all the injector O rings I guess!
Needs some tuning but it runs decent. Gets a bit confused at low RPM idle when i let out of the clutch and its pretty choppy. The cam MIGHT be a bit too big for my street car side :O It is much more rowdy sounding for sure and I havn't got it past 2000 RPM yet.
Had an issue Friday night, couldnt get it to start. Turned out I pinched the cam sensor wiring in between the ground bolt and cut one of the wires. Couldn't figure out why I didn't have fuel or spark. Soldered it back together and its good now! Changed laptops this winter and had to re install HP tuners and reset all my math parameters to get the wideband to feed through the EGR correctly and get my fuel error chart to work. Darn parentheses and math forumas werent working! Also forgot to tighten one of my fuel rail fittings and for the life of me couldnt figure out why i had fuel everywhere. Check fittings before you change all the injector O rings I guess!
Needs some tuning but it runs decent. Gets a bit confused at low RPM idle when i let out of the clutch and its pretty choppy. The cam MIGHT be a bit too big for my street car side :O It is much more rowdy sounding for sure and I havn't got it past 2000 RPM yet.
Well this past weekend I got the intercooler reservoir built. Bought a 3" dia 12" long or so stainless coolant overflow tank straight off the boat from china off ebay. I was going to take some exhaust pipe and built one but it was literally cheaper to but the complete thing and then modify it. Welded 2 1/2 NPT bungs to the bottom and side. Made a trip to the farm supply store for sprayer fittings and pop riveted it using the (slightly) modified brackets to the electric fan.
Wired up a relay using the coil signal wire as the on/off wire and hooked up the wires.
Filled the system and purged the air out. I'm happy!
Wired up a relay using the coil signal wire as the on/off wire and hooked up the wires.
Filled the system and purged the air out. I'm happy!
I decided to make a video on reverse solenoid and reverse lights wiring because why not. And I intended to make a video of the new sound with the cam so I lumped it all together.
Hear the voice of smooth jazz 97.7 (me) (no I am not actually a radio host.
But yeah, for reverse lights on a t56 in a G body remove the plug on the half moon shaped gear selector switch on the back of the column, run 2 wires to the switch on the passenger side of the trans, need 2 male weatherpack end and pins. Works good!
Now I just need to get the nuetral safety switch wired so I am offically drag strip legal.
Hear the voice of smooth jazz 97.7 (me) (no I am not actually a radio host.
But yeah, for reverse lights on a t56 in a G body remove the plug on the half moon shaped gear selector switch on the back of the column, run 2 wires to the switch on the passenger side of the trans, need 2 male weatherpack end and pins. Works good!
Now I just need to get the nuetral safety switch wired so I am offically drag strip legal.
