BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

[81cutlass]

Put the steering parts back in tonight. Got it sorta aligned using this link

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-0411-wheel-alignment-guide/

Trying to get these specs
Camber -1/2 deg.
Caster (drivers side) +3.5 deg.
Caster (pass. side) +3.5 Deg.
Toe In 1/16" Total

My problem, has anyone had a car that won't take caster or camber? with the upper bolts all the way loose (max shim) the car had -.3 degrees camber. Think upper control arms are too long. With all the shim on the front bolt and zero shim on the rear bolt the car had +1.7 degrees camber and like +1.8 degrees caster. It is MAXED out at +1.8 caster and not even close on camber. Any idea on what im doing wrong?

Is the car not low enough? Is it just that the LCA's are too angled down and because the car is too high the tall lowers aren't helping yet?

 

[Gremlinsteve]

Stock arms?
Are you running taller upper ball joints

 

[81cutlass]

Stock arms?
Are you running taller upper ball joints

Tall lowers only, stock upper and lower control arms.

 

[UNGN]

You have to go all in with shims with stock arms. Have you run out of threads on the bolts? My cars must have pretty long bolts.

You are correct that the ride height has to be where you want it before setting camber. Too high is too positive with tall ball joints.

G-body parts tubular arms need much less shims, but get the ride height where you want it, first.

 

[81cutlass]

You have to go all in with shims with stock arms. Have you run out of threads on the bolts? My cars must have pretty long bolts.

You are correct that the ride height has to be where you want it before setting camber. Too high is too positive with tall ball joints.

G-body parts tubular arms need much less shims, but get the ride height where you want it, first.

I did run out of bolt length. I actually had the UCA run into the header on my passenger side at max shim.

Yeah I did some reading after your comment and it looks like to make it work the insides of the lower arms have to be at minimum parallel with the ground under standard load condition. My guess is that they are somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees down, probably closer to 5.

I think I will put max shim in both front and back bolts bolts all the way out) and drive it as is for now. See where the height ends up and when i pull the spindles off to change the brakes I will address cutting the springs. It is somewhere close to stock positive camber and virtually no caster so I should be OK and the car drives straight so no worries there.

 

[motorheadmike]

BTR (brian tooley racing) stage 2 blower. Bought it used for about half new. I was going to get an EPS blower cam BUT this one came up at the right time so i went for it.

I decided I'm going to just go with LS1 calipers and rotors. I want to keep with a 15" tire and select 15's fit with the stock ls1 rotors and calipers ground a bit. Its bigger than the S10 stuff and I can actually get the parts. I just need to turn my rotors down but since I have a lathe thats no problem.

http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i25.html for the LS1 calipers and rotors on a stock G body spindle.

I also ordered the full moog front suspension kit. My tie rod ends are worn out at best. Thats this weeks project I think.

I have the same brake kit on the wagon... it is so-so.

 

[motorheadmike]

I forgot to mention our wagon has 5660s with 2" drop spindles. So, in your case, some cutting may be in order.

 

[Gremlinsteve]

I forgot to mention our wagon has 5660s with 2" drop spindles. So, in your case, some cutting may be in order.

Motörhead Mike

Did u have to cut the 5660
If so how much to remain at your previous height
If not did they raise the car much over stock springs and the drop spindle

 

[81cutlass]

Bought calipers today. $33 out the door for both, clean looking 98-02 F body. Easier than hunting down blazer stuff.

Confirmed from one of the local salvage yards when I asked about 98-03 blazer spindles that you won't find any in the upper mid west because basically every salvage yard runs a hobby stock or some type of dirt car and they take off every spindle and sell it to other dirt guys before they even get put on the lot. He buys splindle pairs in the dozens from missisippi and other southern places.

Now I just gotta order my rotors and pads and get time to cut my stock rotor down into a hub.

Also goal is to make the flynbye brackets at home with my bandsaw and the drill press because I like to make things hard for myself and not spend the 75 bucks for the bracket and instead spend 50 bucks in steel and tooling and 3 hours of time to figure it out. You know, totally logical thinking.

 

[81cutlass]

Far from done but a good start! Found the bracket drawing online, bought some $16 3/8x2 flat bar from menards, marked the locations out with my caliper and square, center punched the locations, drilled holes and it bolts right on!

I am also going to sound super cheap, but the brake pads on the calipers I bought look virtually brand new and have no visible scoring. Going to just reuse them! Also found out impala cop cars and bonnevilles and stuff use the same rotors as firebirds. Total bummer since my buddy scrapped a ssei bonne with those rotors (which where almost brand new) last fall when he did his l67 swap in his fiero. I could have ended up with ls1 front brakes on this car for like $50 and a few hours of my time!

I was on vacation for the last week and let the car sit in the garage. I think it settled about 1 inch and is about 1 inch tall still. Havn't decided if I am going to cut the spring or hope it settles that last inch. Lower control arms are 3 degrees pointing downwards and I still have like + 1 degree camber. I might throw all the shims in the rear of the UCA and take some caster out and see if the camber goes in spec now that its a bit lower.

TBD if you need to make the bracket look all fancy, or if industrial rectangle is acceptable. Top end fits no problem!