BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
15x7 ralley fits with a 2" spacer, would fit with a 1" spacer. Backspace kills more than the diameter. A 15 fits moved out the 1" with a spacer and .375 from the rotor.
Plenty of room to the caliper with the 2" spacer. 15x7 with 4" BS. Could run a 15X8 with 6" BS and grind the pads down a bit. The wheel center hits the caliper with less than 1.375 of space.
Plenty of room to the caliper with the 2" spacer. 15x7 with 4" BS. Could run a 15X8 with 6" BS and grind the pads down a bit. The wheel center hits the caliper with less than 1.375 of space.
So the lesson here, is steel 15" ralleys DO fit over LS1 brakes, just not super close. It will screw up the scrub radius moving the wheel out, but for a drag or street car you are fine. Run a 4th gen or c5 wheel for the backspace (and 16/17" tires which grip better since nobody makes a 15 in sticky compound) with a 1.5" hub centric spacer (my plan) and a 15x6 ralley up front with a 195/75 or so tire for drag use, and you are in business!
A 15x6 has 4" BS, and so does the 15x7. Going to the 15x6 instead of the 15x7 and the 1" spacer and this LS1 setup effectively only moves the outside of the tire out .375" so you end up with the stopping power of LS1 brakes (I have like $150 in mine total) and the ability to still run a 15" wheel up front along with a cheap factory 16 or 17+ front wheel.
Cool discoveries!
A 15x6 has 4" BS, and so does the 15x7. Going to the 15x6 instead of the 15x7 and the 1" spacer and this LS1 setup effectively only moves the outside of the tire out .375" so you end up with the stopping power of LS1 brakes (I have like $150 in mine total) and the ability to still run a 15" wheel up front along with a cheap factory 16 or 17+ front wheel.
Cool discoveries!
Got it wrapped up today! The upgrade was VERY worth it. This thing will lock the 275's up at 50mph no issue with very moderate pedal effort.
Its just ls1 fronts, blazer rears, B body master cylinder. Stock proportioning valve even and although there is likely some tuning I could do, its not far off as is!
I did notice it is squeezing the outside of the rotor a bit more than the inside, but its doing the same on the inside so its not like the bracket is crooked. Only got 10 miles on them and half a dozen hard stops so im not getting worked up about it yet. And the rotors are coated so it just hasnt burned it off.
I am happy!
Its just ls1 fronts, blazer rears, B body master cylinder. Stock proportioning valve even and although there is likely some tuning I could do, its not far off as is!
I did notice it is squeezing the outside of the rotor a bit more than the inside, but its doing the same on the inside so its not like the bracket is crooked. Only got 10 miles on them and half a dozen hard stops so im not getting worked up about it yet. And the rotors are coated so it just hasnt burned it off.
I am happy!
I have dealt with pretty severe wheel hop ever since I replaced the gov-lock with the real clutch posi last fall. Finally boxed my lower control arms to try to deal with it, and no help. I gotta get some adjustable upper arms I guess.
For $6 of material and an hr of welding time, it was worth giving it a shot.
For $6 of material and an hr of welding time, it was worth giving it a shot.
It's more so the bushings than having adjustable arms. Don't use poly bushings in both ends, it will bind. My upper have a rod end on one side and a stock style bushing in the housing on the other. No binding and no hop
Interesting, I've read a lot of people say when hop is caused by pinion angle being off.
I still have stock rubber bushings in both sides on lowers and poly on just the housing side on top.
Is it worth putting a sperical joint in the upper car side? Think that's where the problem is?
I still have stock rubber bushings in both sides on lowers and poly on just the housing side on top.
Is it worth putting a sperical joint in the upper car side? Think that's where the problem is?
