Pshhh I know about all the good sh*t lol
Hows that for instant center adjustment. Just run heims and swedge tubes, no clevis style upper needed.
BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
Hows that for instant center adjustment. Just run heims and swedge tubes, no clevis style upper needed.
http://dcaracefab.com/dca-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_19&products_id=19
These are nice too but no sway bar mounts. http://dcaracefab.com/dca-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_19&products_id=20
Coulda saved $20! Darn rebranding! Yeah those are allstars, i was a bit disappointed to see they didn't have a teflon heim. Seem like a decent part otherwise, especially at the price.
Anyways I put another 2 degrees in last night so its up to 3.5 and it might have been better? Still does hop however. I didn't try that much, only in 2nd gear from a 20mph roll.
I did the math assuming 1" deflection in the lower bushings (which seems like a lot considering the bushings are like 2" in diameter) I would only be getting 1.3° additional of deflection so i would still only end up at 2.2 degrees which is right on that 1 to 3 degrees ive seen recomended.
I have 2 new rubber bushings on the shelf. I might try a set of those taurus camber bushings and put those in the rear end side of the lower arms and the new rubber in the frame side and see where that ends up. With my boxed lowers I am a bit hesitant to just drop poly in them.
I am leaning more towards arm angles than anything. On my 4th gen I had bad wheel hop which I remedied with new shocks, poly lower bushings and 3" drop brackets on the axle side. I think the brackets did most of it.
These are nice too but no sway bar mounts. http://dcaracefab.com/dca-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_19&products_id=20
Coulda saved $20! Darn rebranding! Yeah those are allstars, i was a bit disappointed to see they didn't have a teflon heim. Seem like a decent part otherwise, especially at the price.
Anyways I put another 2 degrees in last night so its up to 3.5 and it might have been better? Still does hop however. I didn't try that much, only in 2nd gear from a 20mph roll.
I did the math assuming 1" deflection in the lower bushings (which seems like a lot considering the bushings are like 2" in diameter) I would only be getting 1.3° additional of deflection so i would still only end up at 2.2 degrees which is right on that 1 to 3 degrees ive seen recomended.
I have 2 new rubber bushings on the shelf. I might try a set of those taurus camber bushings and put those in the rear end side of the lower arms and the new rubber in the frame side and see where that ends up. With my boxed lowers I am a bit hesitant to just drop poly in them.
I am leaning more towards arm angles than anything. On my 4th gen I had bad wheel hop which I remedied with new shocks, poly lower bushings and 3" drop brackets on the axle side. I think the brackets did most of it.
Couldn't they be adapted to the G? That's going to affect the IC; drastically, I would think. That's a big jump.
Drop brackets would be the same between F & G & probably all the A bodies, they all use the same bushings.
http://dcaracefab.com/dca-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_24&products_id=232
Theres a series that runs in the WI / IL area called MId-Am, they are full metric frames with older asphalt late model bodies. They run asphalt dirt and a roadcourse or two. They are allowed quick changes, hence all the clamp on bracketry. Medieval started making mounts for quick changes into metric frames too now that USRA allows them in the stock car class.
http://dcaracefab.com/dca-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_24&products_id=232
Theres a series that runs in the WI / IL area called MId-Am, they are full metric frames with older asphalt late model bodies. They run asphalt dirt and a roadcourse or two. They are allowed quick changes, hence all the clamp on bracketry. Medieval started making mounts for quick changes into metric frames too now that USRA allows them in the stock car class.
Back when I built my rear end, I bought a kit off ebay that is no longer in stock.
It was essentially this one, but included spring cups instead of the weld on G body caliper brackets.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1978-88-GM-Metric-Chassis-9-Inch-Ford-Axle-Bracket-Kit,16891.html
I wanted to buy this kit, but nobody had it with the spring cups and not the caliper brackets.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deluxe-1978-88-Metric-Chassis-9-Inch-Ford-Axle-Bracket-Kit,23683.html
If I could find the adjustable weld on lower bracket seperate, i would go for it for sure. I MIGHT have enough material to drill another hole 1" down on the lower bracket I have now. If not i can weld another 1" on or so and see where that gets me. I am going to do the calculations on my instant center first however.
It was essentially this one, but included spring cups instead of the weld on G body caliper brackets.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1978-88-GM-Metric-Chassis-9-Inch-Ford-Axle-Bracket-Kit,16891.html
I wanted to buy this kit, but nobody had it with the spring cups and not the caliper brackets.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deluxe-1978-88-Metric-Chassis-9-Inch-Ford-Axle-Bracket-Kit,23683.html
If I could find the adjustable weld on lower bracket seperate, i would go for it for sure. I MIGHT have enough material to drill another hole 1" down on the lower bracket I have now. If not i can weld another 1" on or so and see where that gets me. I am going to do the calculations on my instant center first however.
https://www.aa-mfg.com/stock-trailing-arm-mount-four-1-2-holes
Anything else you need lol.
Metric calipers arent anything fancy but they get the job done, but I get not wanting to weld anything on.
Super easy to do if you have a welder though.
Anything else you need lol.
Metric calipers arent anything fancy but they get the job done, but I get not wanting to weld anything on.
Super easy to do if you have a welder though.
Took the car on the first real road trip this weekend post rear axle rebuild, cam change, suspension redo, ect. About 7hrs total. Overall ran great! Little vibration either from the driveline or tires and it road hunts bad with 275's up front (plus my alignment is so-so and I took mostly under maintained rural roads) Got about 20.5 MPG averaging between 60 and 70. Ran rich Friday when it was hot but it cooled Sunday and ran right at 14.7 like I left off with the tune. I bet it would knock down 22 or better with a tune that was a bit more spot on.
Car would be nice with AC but did pretty well without.
Stopped at Blake442's place and he pulled the dent out of the rear quarter. I tried my hand at the front fender and it's mostly out but it's a lot better. Bit oil canny in front but the previous owner did some weird stuff to it 10yrs ago so it wasn't the best base to start with. Needs some filler work long term but it's good enough (and the rest of the paint is so-so anyways) that I am just going to spray some close match silver over it without bondo and look at doing the work this winter. I don't want the car to sit for 1 year and a half when its summer out to pay someone to do it, and it's close enough that its a solid 20fter.
If I stumble on a straight drivers fender I might just put that on instead of trying to repair this one. But in the mean time, these quick fixes should make the thing a bit more presentable for when i go to goodguys show next weekend and hopefully get the people who say "man why did you dent your car" or "did you know your car has dents in it!" at bay.
What it looked like when i bought it 2 years ago
Before (after removing wet bondo) basically how its been for 2 years
And my porcupine! It was a bit tough to pull straight since the PO went at it with a grinder wheel and the surface was pretty scored. Close enough though that it wont have an inch of filler on.
Car would be nice with AC but did pretty well without.
Stopped at Blake442's place and he pulled the dent out of the rear quarter. I tried my hand at the front fender and it's mostly out but it's a lot better. Bit oil canny in front but the previous owner did some weird stuff to it 10yrs ago so it wasn't the best base to start with. Needs some filler work long term but it's good enough (and the rest of the paint is so-so anyways) that I am just going to spray some close match silver over it without bondo and look at doing the work this winter. I don't want the car to sit for 1 year and a half when its summer out to pay someone to do it, and it's close enough that its a solid 20fter.
If I stumble on a straight drivers fender I might just put that on instead of trying to repair this one. But in the mean time, these quick fixes should make the thing a bit more presentable for when i go to goodguys show next weekend and hopefully get the people who say "man why did you dent your car" or "did you know your car has dents in it!" at bay.
What it looked like when i bought it 2 years ago
Before (after removing wet bondo) basically how its been for 2 years
And my porcupine! It was a bit tough to pull straight since the PO went at it with a grinder wheel and the surface was pretty scored. Close enough though that it wont have an inch of filler on.
Took the studs off, did some bondo work, sanded, bought some single stage urethane matched paint.
Was going to half *ss this repair, but matched paint was the same price as a rattle can, I haven't had much luck with the quality of match or the quality of paint in the 3 out of 3 times of tried it, so I just thought why not.
Eh? Not bad I guess for a clueless baboon.
Don't worry Im sanding the laquer off before I put the filler on. Got one or two more thin layers and the divers side is done. Its not too far off.
And I splurged on audio for the first time EVER. The wagon has one functional speaker and this had all the speakers functional, but were tinny of course. Bought some kenwood 4x10 off fleabay.
OE speakers for laughs
Good thing I am skinny! I had to snake myself in to change the speakers. Feet in the spare tire well, hips in, and then contort my shoulders in. Not the most fun.
Anyways, they sound WAY better and I know nothing about audio. I have kickers for the front but they look real hard to change. They both work and the wagon doesnt so i might stick those 3.5's I have new in the wagon and these used but functional 4x10's out of this. Century dashes have a small panel on top that i can remove the speakers without pulling the dash apart. The GP, not so much.
Was going to half *ss this repair, but matched paint was the same price as a rattle can, I haven't had much luck with the quality of match or the quality of paint in the 3 out of 3 times of tried it, so I just thought why not.
Eh? Not bad I guess for a clueless baboon.
Don't worry Im sanding the laquer off before I put the filler on. Got one or two more thin layers and the divers side is done. Its not too far off.
And I splurged on audio for the first time EVER. The wagon has one functional speaker and this had all the speakers functional, but were tinny of course. Bought some kenwood 4x10 off fleabay.
OE speakers for laughs
Good thing I am skinny! I had to snake myself in to change the speakers. Feet in the spare tire well, hips in, and then contort my shoulders in. Not the most fun.
Anyways, they sound WAY better and I know nothing about audio. I have kickers for the front but they look real hard to change. They both work and the wagon doesnt so i might stick those 3.5's I have new in the wagon and these used but functional 4x10's out of this. Century dashes have a small panel on top that i can remove the speakers without pulling the dash apart. The GP, not so much.
You did fine on the speakers. If I had my fat, 240lb, 6' 4" *ss up in my trunk, damned near anyone can do it.
