Could be that the 9.5 followed suit with the 10.5/11.5. That is something I'm ignorant of.
BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
Could be that the 9.5 followed suit with the 10.5/11.5. That is something I'm ignorant of.
I’ve researched the 9.5 and the aftermarket is poor. For a truck app it’s fine ( have been looking for one for C20 around 500whp). But you’re well over that.
I have no recommendations that I’ll stand behind, but if I were you, then I’d be looking at a genuine Eaton clutch style posi for your build. There are many people running low 9’s with one. I think you got the double wamboozle ( professional term) on a crappy part and wheel hop.
But this is me, not you.
I’m sticking with the 8.8 and hoping I don’t disintegrate it. only positive is that I look at the disc brakes as axle retainers
I get what your saying about the aftermarket being poor. Nobody is out there doing much to an 9.5. It's strong, but kinda an unkown in the performance world. I can get an aftermarket diff, and if I go aftermarket axles that part doesn't matter much to have support since its custom. The parts I need are available but I get the aftermarket lack there of. Just frustrating the car has gone home on a trailer twice and I am rarely an over build it person but I am boarderline at the overbuild it point.
I agree the next diff (if I stay 8.5) I go with will be an Eaton. However I ruled out the posi style or anything with spider gears. The issue I have is that I am putting so much shock load though the center pin and the spider gears. Eaton themselves doesn't seem to recommend the posi for drag use. They say truetrac or detroit locker.
The detroit locker is $800 vs $500 for the truetrac. I watched the tech operation videos for both on summit and the truetrac seems better since it is always in contact and there is little to no slop in the system. The detroit locker has some springs and seems like it could fail in the same way the govlocks do (some sprags need to engage).
The other thing I need to do is get a line lock on the car and trigger it off with the clutch pedal release somehow. I would really like to have a little tension on the driveline when staged.
The other thing I really have an opportunity for up top is some added timing. I had like 13 degrees and one of the professional tuners that went on the trip said on ethanol with my IAT's it should take at least 18 degrees at the boost I am at.
I have one last chance to get the car to the track in 2 weeks. I think I will get a truetrac ordered and installed next week. If weather cooperates I'll have one last shot to try to get my 11.50 goal before the end of the season. Then probably a frame notch and 15x10 rears.
I guess a few more photos I grabbed.
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I don't disagree there on the wheel hop. It certainly surprised me during the burnout. The car hasn't wheel hopped for like 3 years, it was back when everything was stock.
The car has adjustable uppers with heims in one side and roto joints in the other, along with boxed lowers and poly bushings.
The other winter change I have to make is getting some adjustable shocks. Hopefully that will cure any potential wheel hop from the water box. The kyb gas adjusts on it are too soft and the compression side on the fronts is waaay loose and the rebound side on the rears is way loose. The car feels like I'm riding a dingy in a hurricane for as much as the nose rises and falls on shifts. It transfers weight really well since the front shocks are so loose, but when I shift it falls down really hard.
The drivers side of the car took a hard hit. The drivers side tube looked pushed rearwards a bit. If I were to go with the 14 bolt I would replace all the bent parts anyways so I would just straighten it out.
That TBSS rear had a bent tube.
I passed on the TBSS 9.5 rear build for now. Since the LC2 setup from the wagon is going in the Olds, I'm going to need a rear for that car eventually. I am going to replace the 8.5 I have in the 2+2 with a Truetrac (just ordered it). I did the math and by the time I shorten my brand new driveshaft, get brakes and axles for a TBSS rear it's more work than I want to deal with now. If i blow the rear again it will go in the cutlass and I will do the 9.5 build for this car.
I was going to take the car to the track in 2 weeks but I found out i have a wedding to go to that weekend and living in the frozen north mid Oct is basically the end of the race season.
I am going to put the car back into street mode, throw a new diff in and get back on the road. I'm burning salt free days so I am wrapping that up before it's too late.
Few more DWend photos
I passed on the TBSS 9.5 rear build for now. Since the LC2 setup from the wagon is going in the Olds, I'm going to need a rear for that car eventually. I am going to replace the 8.5 I have in the 2+2 with a Truetrac (just ordered it). I did the math and by the time I shorten my brand new driveshaft, get brakes and axles for a TBSS rear it's more work than I want to deal with now. If i blow the rear again it will go in the cutlass and I will do the 9.5 build for this car.
I was going to take the car to the track in 2 weeks but I found out i have a wedding to go to that weekend and living in the frozen north mid Oct is basically the end of the race season.
I am going to put the car back into street mode, throw a new diff in and get back on the road. I'm burning salt free days so I am wrapping that up before it's too late.
Few more DWend photos
I like you're plan - ALOT. And I'm with ya on burning up salt free days - wifey put the vex on my weekend racing plans, then out of town for 2 weeks. I see an Atco trip in my future before the the place is closed for good.
p.s. - more water in the burnout box and all will be well (I hope)
p.s. - more water in the burnout box and all will be well (I hope)
