BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
After breaking parts endlessly I decided I need to either switch to a bias ply, or have some type of controlled clutch release.
As far as tires, I narrowed it down to these options
Hoosier QTP 27-10.5/15 17500QTPRO- Word is a bit mixed on these, some say they are a stiff wall tire since they are DOT approved bias slick, but some say they are too soft. I'm not sure.
Hoosier Slick 28-10.5/15 18155C07- Traditional stiff wall non DOT bias slick
M/T ET Drag Slick 28-10.5/15 3055S- Another traditional stiff wall bias slick
M/T ET Drag Slick 28-9.0/15 3054ST- M/t says they have this special stick compound tire, but it looks the same as the stiff wall 10.5 slick, and I'd rather go 10.5 vs 9"
M/T ET Street R Bias 26-10.5 or 28-11.5, I think this is M/T's version of a the Hoosier QTP, but isn't available in the sizes I really want. 26" is too short for what I want and 11.5 is too wide so that's not going to fit without some serious surgery. I am open to frame notch but not touching the inner fenders.
Another option I was recommended was a 'hit controller'.
They have 2 options. 1, the simple 'screen door closer' with a bracket that just slows down the release of the clutch pedal based on some pre-determined threaded rod length to determine the initial 'bite' point, and an adjustable orifice in the gas cylinder to slow the release. 2, an electronic solenoid with a timer and some accumulator.
I need to look into this better to determine what is best for my setup. I'm not sure I like delayed clutch release for every shift (all I need it in is 1st, MAYBE 2nd) and am afraid the slow clutch let out will slow my time from a delayed 2-3 and 3-4 shift release
And in other news, I am in the hunt for data. The clutch release guy has some nice plots of clutch line pressure on his website and I am convinced I need to plot clutch pressure vs. engine RPM vs. mph to really tune in the best 'slip'. He also said a drag radial works on NMCA coyote stock cars with t5 fox bodies, so I am hopeful if I go to this I will reduce some of that shock load on launch and keep the driveline together without sacrificing the superior radials.
I think I can use the GM ecm to log clutch pressure. I am not using the AC pressure signal with my AC system, so I have a 0-5V input free. The GM high side AC pressure switch is 0-5V with saturation at 4.9V and 440 psi. The AC pressure switches are -3 JIC, and my clutch line is -4 JIC, so I just need a -4 to -3 adapter and a tee.
More data!
I want to log my post blower, pre cooler IAT OR aftercooler water temp. I am currently logging only my post cooler IAT and it would be nice to see how efficiently my cooler is taking the temp out of the charge air. Do I have poor airflow over the heat exchanger in front of the radiator and getting poor temp drop, am I maxing out my cooler 'brick' in the intake? Do I not have enough water flow? I have no idea. The 4l60e has a temp sensor with (allegedly) the same temp to voltage curve that the IAT or Coolant temp sensor use. I might be able to just grab that temp signal wire and connect it to another GM IAT sensor and go pre cooler or see what my water temp is.
As far as tires, I narrowed it down to these options
Hoosier QTP 27-10.5/15 17500QTPRO- Word is a bit mixed on these, some say they are a stiff wall tire since they are DOT approved bias slick, but some say they are too soft. I'm not sure.
Hoosier Slick 28-10.5/15 18155C07- Traditional stiff wall non DOT bias slick
M/T ET Drag Slick 28-10.5/15 3055S- Another traditional stiff wall bias slick
M/T ET Drag Slick 28-9.0/15 3054ST- M/t says they have this special stick compound tire, but it looks the same as the stiff wall 10.5 slick, and I'd rather go 10.5 vs 9"
M/T ET Street R Bias 26-10.5 or 28-11.5, I think this is M/T's version of a the Hoosier QTP, but isn't available in the sizes I really want. 26" is too short for what I want and 11.5 is too wide so that's not going to fit without some serious surgery. I am open to frame notch but not touching the inner fenders.
Another option I was recommended was a 'hit controller'.
They have 2 options. 1, the simple 'screen door closer' with a bracket that just slows down the release of the clutch pedal based on some pre-determined threaded rod length to determine the initial 'bite' point, and an adjustable orifice in the gas cylinder to slow the release. 2, an electronic solenoid with a timer and some accumulator.
I need to look into this better to determine what is best for my setup. I'm not sure I like delayed clutch release for every shift (all I need it in is 1st, MAYBE 2nd) and am afraid the slow clutch let out will slow my time from a delayed 2-3 and 3-4 shift release
And in other news, I am in the hunt for data. The clutch release guy has some nice plots of clutch line pressure on his website and I am convinced I need to plot clutch pressure vs. engine RPM vs. mph to really tune in the best 'slip'. He also said a drag radial works on NMCA coyote stock cars with t5 fox bodies, so I am hopeful if I go to this I will reduce some of that shock load on launch and keep the driveline together without sacrificing the superior radials.
I think I can use the GM ecm to log clutch pressure. I am not using the AC pressure signal with my AC system, so I have a 0-5V input free. The GM high side AC pressure switch is 0-5V with saturation at 4.9V and 440 psi. The AC pressure switches are -3 JIC, and my clutch line is -4 JIC, so I just need a -4 to -3 adapter and a tee.
More data!
I want to log my post blower, pre cooler IAT OR aftercooler water temp. I am currently logging only my post cooler IAT and it would be nice to see how efficiently my cooler is taking the temp out of the charge air. Do I have poor airflow over the heat exchanger in front of the radiator and getting poor temp drop, am I maxing out my cooler 'brick' in the intake? Do I not have enough water flow? I have no idea. The 4l60e has a temp sensor with (allegedly) the same temp to voltage curve that the IAT or Coolant temp sensor use. I might be able to just grab that temp signal wire and connect it to another GM IAT sensor and go pre cooler or see what my water temp is.
Maybe look at a T-MAP sensor from a Doodge?
www.mymoparparts.com
2015-2017 Dodge T/Map Sensor 68207074AB | My Mopar Parts
2015-2017 Dodge part # 68207074AB - T/Map Sensor
www.mymoparparts.com
500Psi cheapo china sensor. I use several of these right now.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0748BN3YS/?tag=rippca-20
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0748BN3YS/?tag=rippca-20
I had the understanding that the mechanical unit doesn't work well and is not recommended with a hydraulic clutch operating system.
Awesome, that is what I need! I think what I am going to do is buy a pair of single throw double pole switches since I only have 1 temp input from the trans and 1 pressure input from the AC. I can put a 500 psi sensor in the clutch line and a 100 psi sensor in the fuel rail and read my fuel pressure and clutch pressure with just flipping a switch and switching my function in HPtuners. I can read post-blower pre-cooler air temp and pre cooler water temp (maybe get a 3 pole switch) and read post cooler water temp also to see what temp rise I'm getting from the aftercooler and what temp drop I am getting from my heat exchanger.
I could see that mechanical setup not working great. The hydraulic system is about $400 but really what I need. Considering diff's are $500 though it's relatively affordable insurance.
The good news is I work in a hydraulics test lab so I have access to a ton of solenoids and think I can program some controller up to release pressure at a controlled rate, but I'm going to spend more than $400 between parts and design time to make it work so I should probably just bite the bullet.
Maybe look at a T-MAP sensor from a Doodge?
2015-2017 Dodge T/Map Sensor 68207074AB | My Mopar Parts
2015-2017 Dodge part # 68207074AB - T/Map Sensor
3 BAR? I am stuck with 2 BAR since I am P01 flex SD. Darn P01 not having the RAM for 3 BAR flex.
At first glance the trutrac looks better than the Yukon. I actually had to add a snap ring between the C clip and the Yukon posi to prevent excessive axle endplay and the truetrac didn't need any!
Hopefully get some gear lube and put the thing back together this weekend.
Hopefully get some gear lube and put the thing back together this weekend.
I cam from an Auburn diff and also noticed less endplay. I had .011" and .013" on the Auburn after welding the axle ends and grinding toward a target of .010" per side. Now there's a total of .004" with the Truetrac.
Just keep those sensors away from heat. My fuel pressure sensor was right above my merge log and downpipe, it can get erratic when it gets too warm.
Yeah please post feedback as the truetrac I saved for purchase. I already have everything else to upgrade my 8.5" to 30 spline except the Truetrac. Streetbu has one in his Malibu and swears by it.
