Also not sure if you know about these they reinforce the entire area
They are 10 buxx a pair
They are 10 buxx a pair
BUILD THREAD 86 MCSS - Rejuvenation Project
- Thread starter ed1948
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Also found a pair of A Body Wagon rad opening X bars. Cut 2" off, flatten ends, drill new holes. The duct mount had 2 shims at the top of the rad supp - the shims are replaced by the flattened bar ends with new nut and bolt.
And, just for fun - this should add 10 HP. New diff fluid.
And, just for fun - this should add 10 HP. New diff fluid.
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In the process of installing a mild shift kit - more details later.
That lanolin oil is nasty stuff - but it works.
For a good long lasting penetrating oil to prevent future rot in the seams I recommend that you use Krown T40 or T50. WD40 is prone to wash away and will lose its protection in about 30 days (remember it is solvent based).
Keep on going!
For a good long lasting penetrating oil to prevent future rot in the seams I recommend that you use Krown T40 or T50. WD40 is prone to wash away and will lose its protection in about 30 days (remember it is solvent based).
Keep on going!
One of my rustproofing combos is to use gear oil + roof tar(or undercoating tar) thinned with WD40/ Varsol(mineral spirits)as a carrier to seep into crevices and make it more sprayable.
The two pics below are of the driver's side door hinge pillar. The cracking is from a lap joint putty that was painted over. In this case the crack shows traces of rust. When scraping the joint clean I could see the rust is caused externally - a very small amount at the metal edges. I treated it with rust converter and primed and painted over new body putty. The internal rust protection is achieved by spraying into the fender bolt hole, along the cowl seam and into the interior winshield pillar trim screw holes and letting gravity do it's work. Baiscally oil coating the interior of the pillar/hinge area top to bottom.
Above shows spray nozzle inserted into fender bolt hole adjacent to dash edge. The paint and filler is scraped off showing the lapjoint. The area at the hinge plates had surface rust due to the putty at the perimeter of the hinge had cracked allowing moisture ingress against bare metal
My hands always get greasy when working under the car.(guess that's a good thing?) Even the insides of the aluminum rims were rustproofed.
The two pics below are of the driver's side door hinge pillar. The cracking is from a lap joint putty that was painted over. In this case the crack shows traces of rust. When scraping the joint clean I could see the rust is caused externally - a very small amount at the metal edges. I treated it with rust converter and primed and painted over new body putty. The internal rust protection is achieved by spraying into the fender bolt hole, along the cowl seam and into the interior winshield pillar trim screw holes and letting gravity do it's work. Baiscally oil coating the interior of the pillar/hinge area top to bottom.
Above shows spray nozzle inserted into fender bolt hole adjacent to dash edge. The paint and filler is scraped off showing the lapjoint. The area at the hinge plates had surface rust due to the putty at the perimeter of the hinge had cracked allowing moisture ingress against bare metal
My hands always get greasy when working under the car.(guess that's a good thing?) Even the insides of the aluminum rims were rustproofed.
I'm in the process of replacing the rear brake flex line with a ss braid Russell line. Very frustrating day and more muscle aches - I didn't even realize I had muscle there. The only way to gain access to the fittings is to sit under the raised car between the gas tank and diff. The bottom and front of the tank needed to be degreased because the oily stuff(undercoating) was rubbing off on my coveralls. Despite having applied penetrating fluid to the line fittings for a month, using a brazing torch to heat the nuts and setting fire to the undercoating, burning through the rubber line(brake fluid burns as well), spending hours with the line wrench gently forcing the nut, tapping with a hammer, rounding off 2 of the 3 fittings, finally using the vice grips to loosen the nuts. Despite the car being oiled underneath, the brake line fitting threads were seized rusty requiring lots of time to clean. Very difficult to do without a hoist. I'm trying to keep costs to a minimum(wife is already upset I bought the car) but the proper way would have been to replace the axle brake lines and most likely the brake cylinders and who knows what else will break. 31 year old brake lines are a ********&# even if the car has not seen salt. I have exceeded my quota of swear words to 2030.
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