98~05 Blazer brake upgrade! DONE!

[Mikevar82]

Hey guys. Has anyone had a problem getting the air out of the brakes on this set up? I have bleed the crap out of this but still get the pedal drop once and a while.

 

[Longroof79]

What procedure are you using to bleed the brakes? Invest in a set of speed bleeders. I find that they work pretty well.,,between that and a Mity-vac....or you can use the old fashioned method of having a buddy pump the pedal while you crack open the bleeder.

Pressure bleeding is another great method. That's of course if you have access to a decent pressure pump. There a few out there that look like garden sprayers. They are supposed to work pretty well.

 

[81msw79]

That is not how any of this works 🙂

Tall upper will compliment the tall lowers. Tall lowers will lower the car and improve the tie rod location in relation to the control arms to reduce bump steer and improve the camber curve of the wheel (less negative camber when wheel goes down/more negative camber when wheel goes up). as the car leans to the outside in a turn, the outside wheel has more negative camber... what you want.

Tall upper doesn't effect ride height, has a much smaller effect on bump steer, but DOES improve the camber curve.

Tall upper and tall lower together will noticeably improve handling and if you're car can wheely, will keep the wheels nice and vertical when the car pops a wheely (instead going all full negative camber at full droop - which is NOT good for handling).

If you have 8" wide wheels that are 16" diameter or less, tall uppers can put the wheel close to the control arms are full lock, so that is a potential drawback in some applications. 7" wheels or narrower or 8" bigger than 17" shouldn't be a issue with G-body backspacing.

How well will the tall upper and lower ball joints fit with a 15x7 rally wheel with 3 3/4 backspacing?

 

[Mikevar82]

What procedure are you using to bleed the brakes? Invest in a set of speed bleeders. I find that they work pretty well.,,between that and a Mity-vac....or you can use the old fashioned method of having a buddy pump the pedal while you crack open the bleeder.

Pressure bleeding is another great method. That's of course if you have access to a decent pressure pump. There a few out there that look like garden sprayers. They are supposed to work pretty well.

I did it the old fashion way. I going to try the speed bleeders. Every time I pump is see the fluid bubble up in the reservoir.

 

[442_87]

Hey guys. Has anyone had a problem getting the air out of the brakes on this set up? I have bleed the crap out of this but still get the pedal drop once and a while.

Start from passenger rear then driver rear then passenger front , then driver front

I use a bleeder that runs with a compressor, ( ensure you don’t let the master cylinder run dry)

 

[nycutlass]

I did mine the old school way pump 4 times and hold no issues at all

 

[Chris Chow]

swear my car sits a shade higher than stock now with tall upper and lowers, so im gonna say you might be wrong.

If installed correctly, the taller ball joints will lower the front of the car. You can see in this video clip of my turbo Buick.
The resultant characteristic is similar to BMW front end geometry when turning the wheel, lock to lock.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

With the Blazer spindle swap, are there any issues like the with the old B spindle swap increasing bumpsteer?

 

[Longroof79]

With the Blazer spindle swap, are there any issues like the with the old B spindle swap increasing bumpsteer?

None that I've experienced... just improved braking. I have heard of the 12" B-body spindle setup having bumpsteer issues.

 

[V8 Rumble]

No issues here either. Stopped great before and I installed c5 brakes as well last spring and improved on that.

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