98~05 Blazer brake upgrade! DONE!

I also used the S-10 RHD master cylinder AC Delco 18M974. The brakes work well after a good bleeding. At first I wasn't impressed. With the new pads bedding in, I can feel the difference.
I also plan to replace the old cast iron combination valve to the brass type. I know it'll snowball to replacing all my brake lines, which i should have done from the get-go.
 
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Wasnt on mine, before the switch to the wilwood. If its low then its probably the Prop valve that needs to be swapped. How ever I did intsall stainless steel brake hoses.


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You guys realize the ONLY difference between the cast iron and brass proportioning valves is the metal they are made out of right? They will make NO difference in how your pedal feels at all.
 
You guys realize the ONLY difference between the cast iron and brass proportioning valves is the metal they are made out of right? They will make NO difference in how your pedal feels at all.

Well, I changed mine to adjustable wilwood, so I know mine is differentz


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You guys realize the ONLY difference between the cast iron and brass proportioning valves is the metal they are made out of right? They will make NO difference in how your pedal feels at all.
And good friggin luck getting stainless brake lines to seal with a brass valve! I threw two, yes two of them in the trash after the stainless lines and tube nuts screwed up the threads! I called inline tube and they said that's a common issue with the SS brake lines, and the brass being a softer metal.
I ended up snatching a stock iron unit from a square body Caprice and it's been good since.
 
And good friggin luck getting stainless brake lines to seal with a brass valve! I threw two, yes two of them in the trash after the stainless lines and tube nuts screwed up the threads! I called inline tube and they said that's a common issue with the SS brake lines, and the brass being a softer metal.
I ended up snatching a stock iron unit from a square body Caprice and it's been good since.
Scott,
I assume the B-body prop valves are the same in dimensions and interchangeability?
I remember you saying that you weren't too pleased with the brass replacement valves.
It might be easier to find B-body prop valves.
 
And good friggin luck getting stainless brake lines to seal with a brass valve! I threw two, yes two of them in the trash after the stainless lines and tube nuts screwed up the threads! I called inline tube and they said that's a common issue with the SS brake lines, and the brass being a softer metal.
I ended up snatching a stock iron unit from a square body Caprice and it's been good since.


Lots of people screw up the brass valves, very easy to cross the threads even with plain steel nuts. Trick is to not bolt the valve down. Get all the lines started, then bolt it down, then tighten the nuts. Basic mechanics...
 
Lots of people screw up the brass valves, very easy to cross the threads even with plain steel nuts. Trick is to not bolt the valve down. Get all the lines started, then bolt it down, then tighten the nuts. Basic mechanics...
I could see that happening, but I tried both methods of tightening. Neither valves were cross threaded, trust me I'm super careful to avoid that and have been wrenching long enough. The threads pulled out of one of the valves!
 
What year B-Body? later 90's? disk/disk set up?
Tbh I'm not sure. I was walking through the junkyard and anything GM that was boxy or G body-esque shaped I looked at the valve. This was a few years back and I was in a rush at the time. I literally cut the lines with tin snips, pinched them closed and left.
 

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