a/c ian an lt1 swap

[lt1cutlass]

can someone lend me some advice?
i have an 87 cutlass supreme (euro). i swapped in a lt1 from a 94 caprice cop car (9c1)
im havin a ball with it, but i had to put on an ac delete pulley because the compressor was hitting the frame rail
i really want ac in it but im not sure what fits or where to look.
any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[DRIVEN]

Easiest/cheapest option is to notch your crossmember and use a factory Caprice compressor.

 

[lt1cutlass]

im not interested in cutting the framework in the car, but i have see it done on a regal, seems to me that would weaken the frame, and with a fair amount of horsepower i just cant see cutting the frame ending with favorable results

 

[DRIVEN]

I'm certainly not recommending that you just torch out a huge section of your framerail or crossmember. I was referring to a proper notch and fill. Something similar to the clearancing that SRD art did for his header interference. About half way down the page: viewtopic.php?f=25&t=29235&start=165 . I highly doubt you'll be making anywhere near enough power to break a frame. LT1s have a pretty compact accessory drive system so there aren't many good clean options. So you'll need to either notch your frame or possibly convert to a complete Corvette system that has everything on the driver's side (not cheap).

 

[lt1cutlass]

oh ok i see what you mean now, he's a true artist it seems... i think a project like that is way out of my skill and equipment range, but i certainly appreciate your info and suggestions.. ill post pics of my car on here once i figure out how to navigate this site.. today is my first day lol Thanks again!!

 

[DRIVEN]

I think you'll like it here. Tons of good info and some really talented builders.

 

[stuckincincy]

I'm doing this same swap in an 86 Monte Carlo SS. The factory Caprice compressor just barely touched the frame. I just heated the frame up a little with an acetylene torch and dimpled a 6 inch long section about 1/4 to 3/8 inch with a small 2lb sledge which gave me plenty of clearance for belt changes and to run the P/S hoses between the compressor and the frame. It can be done with out the torch, the heat just makes it more malleable. I replaced the factory compressor an aftermarket one and the clutch design was a little different. It was a little longer on the front and little smaller diameter that actually would have cleared the frame with out dimpling it, but wouldn't allow for the P/S return hose.