It really makes you wonder why they don't keep things uniform. I guess the metric end goes into the carb and the wingnut end would be the SAE thread. Makes sense, right? ...😕
A COUPLE PROBLEMS WITH AEROBACK 2 - I NEED HELP WITH
- Thread starter JAMCAR223
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I'm not following how drilling the lock out will get the trunk open if the rod has fallen off. Maybe I misunderstood something.
Hope you can get it open through the back seat.
Hope you can get it open through the back seat.
drill out lock.
take flat head screwdriver into the hole you drilled
screwdriver becomes the rod that fell out
twist and trunk pops open
take flat head screwdriver into the hole you drilled
screwdriver becomes the rod that fell out
twist and trunk pops open
ONCE THE LOCK IS DRILLED YOU CAN SEE THIS THROUGH THE HOLE
sry caps
Gotcha. I was picturing a rod type of linkage. Makes sense now.
ONCE THE LOCK IS DRILLED YOU CAN SEE THIS THROUGH THE HOLE
sry caps
ONCE THE LOCK IS DRILLED YOU CAN SEE THIS THROUGH THE HOLE
sry caps
Sounds like a plan. The same procedure one has to deal when a 2000's Ford hood latch fails. Never understand why engineers think it's clever to secure the engine compartment with a key lock. But then again, I work with some of these engineers on a daily basis...............
I'll update this thread so anyone in the future can use the information. I was successful at removing the trunk latch, by removing the back seat. This was the hardest part, as I could not get the seat bottom to budge. I've removed several rear seats in the past, and this one required a pry bar. Anyway, once the seat was removed, I used about 3 feet of extensions on the end of my ratchet, and an 11mm. Unbolted the latch, and lifted the trunk right up. Nothing in there but the "improperly stored" (LOL) jack assembly, and a bungee cord. I was very happy to see absolutely NO rust anywhere ( back seat or trunk ). I have a trunk lock cylinder assembly I robbed from the parts car, so I will install it, and move on.
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