alternate 3rd members
- Thread starter DrRansom442
- Start date
- Status
I almost did. had the diff ,had reinforced the lower arms ... was ready for install . but someone offered me a 9" ford 58" and i`m going 4 link .....
Dan
Dan
joe_padavano said:
Also, note most S-10s came with the 7-5/8 (7.625) rear, not the 8.5. Honestly haven't seen an 8.5 in an S-10 (4WDs have them?). And as Joe stated, you would still have to do some work, i.e. welding, to it to make it work.
I think as long as you're not beating on the car every waking moment the 7.5 car hold up until you can afford an upgrade.
well I think I am snagging a SS rear ... price is right, gearing is way better and it's a posi unit ... I will just keep my old rear awhile and my fingers crossed.
you could put a ford 8.8 in it, since you dont care about running different bolt patterns, but there is welding involved. my friend has a 95 mustang rear with 410s and posi i putting in eventually and btw most of the jeeps i know of have a four link style suspension if he was refering to the later ones
Early 'A' body rear in a 'G' Body
Can you operate a hand drill? The aftermarket control arms for tha rear swap are the easiest thing to do. and at $179.00 cheap! I've never seen them that cheap! If you don't mind opening up the stock control arm and redrilling the hole forward about 1-1/2" then using "hop stop" bars, the rear is a drop in. Using the 'hop stop' bars is optional but makes the "fitting" easier. The only other issue is the geometry of the shock mount on the early rears stesses the shock bushing. I took a shock stud and heated and bent it for a better fit. '64 and '65 A body rears are only 1-1/2" wider than the stock 'G' body rear. '66-'72 are 3" wider. The later ' b' body rears are wider than that! The WS-6 Trans Am "snow flake" wheel has a 4-1/4 backspace that will let you run 245-60's with out rub. The 8.2 early 'A' body rears are fairly strong and have a good ratio selection. The Buick/Pontiac/olds rears have the benefit of positive axle retention (no 'C' clips) You have to look at the dates, after '70 most rears went with 'C' clips. If you look at some old car magazines they tested some of the 60's muscle cars with modified engines and slicks using the 8.2. Granted a 12 bolt is stronger but you're looking for budget right? I've done this, it works and the car drives fine. I've got a '79 Lemans wagon, with the 8.2 and 3.90 gears. With a low compression 455 dropping the clutch at 5000 rpm the rear held up! I used a muncie trans. Lotsa luck with you're project.
Can you operate a hand drill? The aftermarket control arms for tha rear swap are the easiest thing to do. and at $179.00 cheap! I've never seen them that cheap! If you don't mind opening up the stock control arm and redrilling the hole forward about 1-1/2" then using "hop stop" bars, the rear is a drop in. Using the 'hop stop' bars is optional but makes the "fitting" easier. The only other issue is the geometry of the shock mount on the early rears stesses the shock bushing. I took a shock stud and heated and bent it for a better fit. '64 and '65 A body rears are only 1-1/2" wider than the stock 'G' body rear. '66-'72 are 3" wider. The later ' b' body rears are wider than that! The WS-6 Trans Am "snow flake" wheel has a 4-1/4 backspace that will let you run 245-60's with out rub. The 8.2 early 'A' body rears are fairly strong and have a good ratio selection. The Buick/Pontiac/olds rears have the benefit of positive axle retention (no 'C' clips) You have to look at the dates, after '70 most rears went with 'C' clips. If you look at some old car magazines they tested some of the 60's muscle cars with modified engines and slicks using the 8.2. Granted a 12 bolt is stronger but you're looking for budget right? I've done this, it works and the car drives fine. I've got a '79 Lemans wagon, with the 8.2 and 3.90 gears. With a low compression 455 dropping the clutch at 5000 rpm the rear held up! I used a muncie trans. Lotsa luck with you're project.
joe_padavano said:
the same way people weld them on to 9 inches all the time!
they did it on powerblock once too. a good enough welder can weld as strong as cast if not stronger.
found a guy local with a 9" for a G-body he's never installed ... willing to part with it for $1500. It's complete ... maybe after I get my tax refund ... otherwise I will probably settle for a posi 7.5" and cross my fingers.
I DON'T WELD!!!!! so I definately would not trust myself to fabricate mounts.
I DON'T WELD!!!!! so I definately would not trust myself to fabricate mounts.
- Status
Similar threads
