Another Blazer brake question

[Longroof79]

Thanks again, Brian, for all your information, videos, and research. I was going to ask you about the parking brake situation, but see that you've yet to complete that.

I wonder if anyone that has used the Blazer rear disc brake setup on a GM axle, was there any rear shock mount interference? It seems when using the F-body LS1 type brakes, the rear shock mounts need to be moved away from the calipers using a fabricated bracket.

 

[@BurnoutsandRotorblades]

Thanks again, Brian, for all your information, videos, and research. I was going to ask you about the parking brake situation, but see that you've yet to complete that.

I wonder if anyone that has used the Blazer rear disc brake setup on a GM axle, was there any rear shock mount interference? It seems when using the F-body LS1 type brakes, the rear shock mounts need to be moved away from the calipers using a fabricated bracket.

Honestly, you could just as easily clock the backing plate to locate the caliper more out-of-the-way. You could put the caliper on the bottom if you want. The 4wd backing plates are identical to the 2wd except they locate the caliper forward of the axle. so if having it forward of the axle would prevent interference than that may be the solution. another option is using the 4wd backing plates and putting the right backing plate on the left and the left on the right side, mounted upside down. This way you could have a caliper on the bottom forward side of the axle and the e brake cable eyelet facing the right direction. This would give full functionality while avoiding any clearance issue on top. Just remember to orient the brake bleeder up whatever you do.

 

[Longroof79]

Honestly, you could just as easily clock the backing plate to locate the caliper more out-of-the-way. You could put the caliper on the bottom if you want. The 4wd backing plates are identical to the 2wd except they locate the caliper forward of the axle. so if having it forward of the axle would prevent interference than that may be the solution. another option is using the 4wd backing plates and putting the right backing plate on the left and the left on the right side, mounted upside down. This way you could have a caliper on the bottom forward side of the axle and the e brake cable eyelet facing the right direction. This would give full functionality while avoiding any clearance issue on top. Just remember to orient the brake bleeder up whatever you do.

Great information. Looks like I'll be going on a junkyard expedition soon. Thanks again for explaining
the differences in brake components and your recommendations. I appreciate it.

Btw, what are you using for a proportioning valve, or combination valve? I think this will ultimately make me change out all the steel brake lines, which is probably long overdue.

 

[@BurnoutsandRotorblades]

Great information. Looks like I'll be going on a junkyard expedition soon. Thanks again for explaining
the differences in brake components and your recommendations. I appreciate it.

Btw, what are you using for a proportioning valve, or combination valve? I think this will ultimately make me change out all the steel brake lines, which is probably long overdue.

I left the stock Gbody combination valve in place. as you can see in the video for the brake test I was hard on the brakes and it didn't squeal a tire.

 

[Longroof79]

I just ordered the AC-Delco RHD Blazer master cylinder from Rock Auto # 18M974.
I'm anxious to see how it works.

 

[64nailhead]

I just ordered the AC-Delco RHD Blazer master cylinder from Rock Auto # 18M974.
I'm anxious to see how it works.

I'm following. I started a thread a while back with similar questions and the RHD S-10 master was an option for me as well. I still have the rear drums, but discs are in the plan for winter. o it would be great Jack if you could let us know how this works out in sunny FL during the winter.

I mentioned it in anther thread, but I'll restate it, we have the S10 spindles with a set of C5 brakes on the front with the stock master and proportioning valve. The pedal s about an inch deeper, but it stops AMAZINGLY!!!!! I have brought to a stop without issue from 120+. It's actually hard to believe how well it works, and now that we are used to the pedal there is no reason to swap the master unless warranted by the rear disc swap.

 

[pontiacgp]

so if having it forward of the axle would prevent interference than that may be the solution..

when guys were using the F body rear disk brakes which had one caliper on the backside and one on the front the one in front had to be moved to the back on a G body or the caliper would hit the frame.

 

[Longroof79]

I'm following. I started a thread a while back with similar questions and the RHD S-10 master was an option for me as well. I still have the rear drums, but discs are in the plan for winter. o it would be great Jack if you could let us know how this works out in sunny FL during the winter.

I mentioned it in anther thread, but I'll restate it, we have the S10 spindles with a set of C5 brakes on the front with the stock master and proportioning valve. The pedal s about an inch deeper, but it stops AMAZINGLY!!!!! I have brought to a stop without issue from 120+. It's actually hard to believe how well it works, and now that we are used to the pedal there is no reason to swap the master unless warranted by the rear disc swap.

Jim,
I remember your thread and need to refer back to it. I actually forgot all about it... I will let you know how it works out. I'm also thinking of going with the 2wd Blazer rear discs. Brian brought out a good point regarding compatibility.
In other words all the parts would be matched. However, I would change out the combination valve.
It's still the original unit in the car. I'm sure once I get started on this project it's gonna snowball into changing all the steel lines, etc.
I also like the simplicity and ease of maintenance with disc brakes as opposed to drums.

 

[64nailhead]

This will sound crazy, but I'm extremely interested in rear discs to hold onto the wheel and axle in case of a rear end grenading/catastrophe - I refuse to run c-clip eliminators on a car that sees 5K+ miles of driving per year. The added stopping power is a plus IMO.

I'm following so please keep us updated with both progress and end results 🙂

 

[Longroof79]

This will sound crazy, but I'm extremely interested in rear discs to hold onto the wheel and axle in case of a rear end grenading/catastrophe - I refuse to run c-clip eliminators on a car that sees 5K+ miles of driving per year. The added stopping power is a plus IMO.

I'm following so please keep us updated with both progress and end results 🙂

I will, Jim.
When I referred back to your thread, I also found Turna's thread on MR which was also informative.
http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=124945
I'm thinking the Blazer master cylinder should make the brakes function like they should using the Blazer brake setup. I also have the deep pedal syndrome. It stops okay, but I like the pedal to feel higher and firmer.
I really did not seriously consider going with rear discs, but the more I look into it, the more feasible it sounds...and the more efficient the braking will be. I know that the axle flanges will need to be modified by cutting the upper ear off and drilling the pattern for the 4-bolt design.