Anyone using headers with studs?

[crucial118]

I am using about to put my headers back on the heads(which are aluminum) and was wondering if anyone has had any issues with getting the nut on? It was tight with the original 7/16 bolt head and looks like the nut that goes on the stud is even bigger. The studs in question are ARP 12-point or the Mr Gasket 6-point. My headers are Hedman shorties. The Mr. Gasket's use a 9/16 nut, which I know would be impossible to get past the header tubes and am not sure about the 12-point nut size. The 12-pt fit, but was impossible to get a wrench or socket around #5 and #7. I am just trying to stop any chances of f'ing up the threads in the aluminum. The intake will probably never(fingers crossed) need to come off again, but the headers might have more of need to come off and I heard studs help in this issue. Any suggestions?

 

[pontiacgp]

We use bolts on the aluminum heads on the race car with no issues and they have been off a few times. We install them well coated with anti seize. I do agree with your concerns and if I find the aluminum heads for my car I'm looking for I will install heli coils in each threaded hole before I install the heads. When I worked on aircraft there was no threaded aluminum part that did not have a heli coil installed. But for the problem you have with the 12 point will a crowfoot work? I stay away from mr gasket stuff

 

[MightyCarlo86]

You could try to just clearance around the tube of the header just a little bit around the areas that are really tight and as far as the socket goes, I took a 3/8 12 point socket 1/4" drive and used a grinder to make the walls of the socket thinner for better access to the heads of the bolts on mine and that seemed to help a lot as far as clearance goes. Hope this helps you out some.

 

[crucial118]

Thanks guys. Both good suggestions. The grinding the walls of the socket would help in some areas, but I would definitely need a wrench on at least 2 locactions(without a little bfh persuasion of the primaries). Never seen a 12-pt crowfoot wrench that was probably what I needed. I have the 6-pt crowfoot set. Guess I have a new tool to put on the list. With the helicoil, I guess you would have to use a smaller bolt for the header, right? I went ahead and used the ARP 3/8 wrench bolts. Helped a lot with clearance issues, but If they ever come off again, I will probably do the 12-pt stud and crowfoot idea.

 

[pontiacgp]

for a helicoil you need to use a tap for that helicoil. You open the hole and tap it for a helicoil that will give you the size and bolt pattern of the bolt you are using

 

[crucial118]

for a helicoil you need to use a tap for that helicoil. You open the hole and tap it for a helicoil that will give you the size and bolt pattern of the bolt you are using

Yeah, I know. Just didn't think you would drill out a perfectly good thread in an expensive piece of aluminum unless provoked.

 

[565bbchevy]

If I am not mistaken your heads are on the engine which is in the car so that would rule out trying to install Helicoils correctly for the time being.
I have always used ARP stainless headers bolts with a 6 point 3/8" head which on a SBC should give you adequate clearance on
most style headers other than large tube full race headers, you will still have to wrench them on though.
In as many times as I have taken header bolts on and off aluminum heads I have yet to have an issue with the threads, I think the
biggest issue would come from trying to force a bolt in and end up cross threading it.
I even tried studs once but only thinking it would make installation easier but it didn't so I went back to bolts.
The best way to install a one piece header design is to get all the bolts started before you attempt to tighten any and check any alignment issue at this time.
I prefer to check for header fitment issues while it is on the engine stand but that is not always the order in which we purchase things either.
I also only use copper embossed header gaskets which have never leaked for me and they put tension on the header bolts so they don't come loose which
is a problem I have never had.

 

[pontiacgp]

I didn't mean to try to install the helicoil with the heads in place. Once question, why do you think the headers will have to be removed once they are in place?

 

[565bbchevy]

I didn't mean to try to install the helicoil with the heads in place. Once question, why do you think the headers will have to be removed once they are in place?

I knew you didn't mean for him to install the Helicoils in car, I just remembered that his engine was already in from a previous topic.
Depending on the header design and exhaust set up there numerous reasons you might have to remove a header(s)
Cheap header gaskets that leak and need replacing.
Possible starter R & R issues because of the headers.
Having to remove the trans there might be an issue.
Or if you decide it's time to make your engine prettier with new header wrap (that would be me)

 

[crucial118]

No more helicoils for me(knock on wood). I used the 3/8 ARP bolts and they worked pretty sweet. Still had to wrench on 3, I think, but the smaller wrench size was a great help.