Big Block Questions
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The oil pan fitment really depends on the headers. If you go the more expensive route with the $400+ gbody specific headers you will probably have more clearance for the starter, oil pan, and oil filter. With the Abody headers the clearance will be tighter and most people use mini starters and remote oil filter kits. I havent seen a 6-7 qt oil pan that wont fit in a gbody and there's no reason to go any bigger.
Thanks 83MONTESS. I guess I'll take some measurements while the 350 is in the car.-83MONTESS- said:
crucial118 said:
Yes, even my 7 quart Milidon BBC oil pan has no clearance issues with the chassis.
I would stay away from the extra wide ones just incase there is header interference but you should have no issues with a pan like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-2 ... /chevrolet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-2 ... /chevrolet
Most quality header designs are made to fit pans with kickouts and a mini starter.
I don't like using the deep sump style because of ground clearance and kickout pans will usually sit flush or slightly higher than the crossmember so you don't have to worry about anything hitting it especially on a lowered car.
I don't like using the deep sump style because of ground clearance and kickout pans will usually sit flush or slightly higher than the crossmember so you don't have to worry about anything hitting it especially on a lowered car.
Good looking guys. I'm gonna have a lot more :?: once I start the rebuild, so be on the lookout. Thanks.
The 'other' non-$500 Super Comp header that some guys use is '70-81 Camaro BBC headers from Hooker that run around $175. To run these most guys have to turn around bolts in the lower a-arm mount and have to trim the mounting tabs for the lower a-arms. By the way, they offer the same length and diameter of pipe...
I have the $500 set and they fit, they do not like to fit with full sized starters. They will make changing the oil filter a pain if you have the kick-out oil pan (as opposed to just deeper). They also require hacking on the stock engine side of the motor mount/clam shell or using Moroso or similar style solid mounts.
No advantage to tall deck/truck blocks as header fitment seems to be MORE of a hassle.
I say go with the -781- or -049 casting number oval port open chamber heads with the above mentioned 2.19/1.88 valve upgrade. These heads were found on most trucks and about any 454 up to the mid 80's.
Another route is to use a flat top 454 short block and run Vortec 7400 heads. GM calls them L29, they are basically a closed chamber, full size oval port head, the chamber bumps compression up 8-9.1 depending on pistons, way pump gas friendly...they are -279 and -241 I think. GM basically copied an older 396 style head(-702 or -215) to add some thrust to the 454 SS trucks. They still use a normal intake manifold. They are of non-adjustable rocker arm stud so use ARP adapter studs.
I have the $500 set and they fit, they do not like to fit with full sized starters. They will make changing the oil filter a pain if you have the kick-out oil pan (as opposed to just deeper). They also require hacking on the stock engine side of the motor mount/clam shell or using Moroso or similar style solid mounts.
No advantage to tall deck/truck blocks as header fitment seems to be MORE of a hassle.
I say go with the -781- or -049 casting number oval port open chamber heads with the above mentioned 2.19/1.88 valve upgrade. These heads were found on most trucks and about any 454 up to the mid 80's.
Another route is to use a flat top 454 short block and run Vortec 7400 heads. GM calls them L29, they are basically a closed chamber, full size oval port head, the chamber bumps compression up 8-9.1 depending on pistons, way pump gas friendly...they are -279 and -241 I think. GM basically copied an older 396 style head(-702 or -215) to add some thrust to the 454 SS trucks. They still use a normal intake manifold. They are of non-adjustable rocker arm stud so use ARP adapter studs.
I agree with the big block idea I recently did the swap over here in canada ontario last summer, I bought the g body specific hooker headers the black ones and they were just over 800$ total, I used stock sbc mounts which worked good and about the clearance on the front that is correct I used a 3400 cfm single fan and I have about a quarter inch from the pulley to the fan lol also about a quarter inch from power steering pulley to the steering box all in all it fits well works great and I had to upgrade to a larger cowl in order to close the hood with my 4 inch breather, any particular questions feel free to ask as I have been through alot with this build and swap. And I am also looking for advice on which would be the best alum head set up to go with on my bbc. Thanks
If you buy any aluminum heads go with a name brand!
You can chose, Edelbrock, Dart, Brodix, etc. avoid China imports, you may be lured in by the initial cheap price until they drop a valve or seat on the second pass on your new motor.
Name brand.
Oval ports on street and mild motors.
Don't bother going over 6500 RPM, you don't need too!
You can chose, Edelbrock, Dart, Brodix, etc. avoid China imports, you may be lured in by the initial cheap price until they drop a valve or seat on the second pass on your new motor.
Name brand.
Oval ports on street and mild motors.
Don't bother going over 6500 RPM, you don't need too!
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