Boxing lower control arms

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I chased wheel hop and boxed mine in the process. I put adjustable uppers with roto joints in the top and it didn't solve it, I boxed the lowers and it still hopped, but less. Changed lca bushings to poly and it stopped the hop.

The stock lca's can be twisted by hand. I'm sure there would be some potential for binding if you maxed the down travel on one side of the car to the shock end and up travel in the other to bump stop, but i doubt anyone is doing that with your fun weekend cruiser street/strip g body. Most you will probably see is a steep parking lot entrance.

If you are paranoid speedway sells roto joint bushings that are steel on steel and have good rotating built it but press into a stock arm.
 
So I’m thinking I’ll box the lowers and put new moog rubber bushings in. I’ve read they’re close to the 1LE ones.
As Mr. Fleming had suggested, weld in a few pieces of pipe, especially if you're using a swaybar. That's what I did. Make sure you do it before you weld them closed.
 
Can’t use the factory swaybar with tubular lowers
Some of them have provisions for a swaybar, as you see above^.... some don't.
 
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with the expense, the time and the work to buy and change bushings, buy metal, cut and weld onto the lowers I think buying a set of tubular lowers might work out to be a better deal.
I guess it depends on how ambitious you are and how you want to spend your time. For me it was no biggie. Sometimes you want to implement your creativity.
 
I boxed mine in my 78 20 years ago and they never had an issue. Boxed the lowers and uppers and left the rubber mount in the rear housing. I ran my 70 chevelle the same way. And considering it’s the same design then as it was up to 88 Chevy offered the f-41 package that boxed the lower arms from the factory.
 
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i can see it both ways,when i was in school i was super broke but i had access to a welder,scrap pile/time.fit the bill and it served it purpose.did it remedy the wheel hop?that's another story...
 
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