REGAL Buick Somerset II

[Road_Ghost]

Ideally I would like an '87 '88 Olds, Buick, Monte, GP G-Body, but I wouldn't pass up something older and cheaper that attracts me either.

See what happens. Still looking.

 

[ck80]

The Problem with the "Low mile" or "all original" Non performance versions you might run across today, they are usually low miles because the original owners became elderly and couldn't drive anymore and they got parked. People back in the 1980's that drove "generic cars" are the same people that drive Hondas and Camry's today. They don't take care of their cars because its just transportation to them. They don't now and they didn't then. The suspension likely needs a full rebuild, the Radiator is rotten, the exhausts are rusted from the inside, the rubber is all crumbling, all of the vacuum hoses are cracked, etc.

By the time you get done fixing all of the crap with non existent "stock" parts you could a purchased an upgraded car from an enthusiast for the same amount of money. If you have a 1966 Shelby Mustang its a big deal if it is "all original", because the first thing people did was beat the hell out of them. If you have a 1978 base 3.8L Buick Regal, nobody cares. They ALL led a pretty cushy, sedate life compared to ANY Shelby.. If anyone thinks that someday, in the far distant future, somebody will care, they are kidding themselves.

Now if it was a low mile Turbo Coupe, somebody might care. Even then, way more people would care if that same low mile '79 Turbo Coupe had a swapped ''86/87 Drivetrain and a Pro touring suspension.

If you want a car to remember how bad things used to be, I see some value in that. But, unless you are trying to win an award at an AACA national meet, keeping a base model, lowperf early 80's G-body stock for stock sake doesn't make any sense to me.

You seem to be describing the barn find project rather than the survivor. For every low mile car parked by someone who stopped driving, there is another super low mile car the owner stopped driving a month ago, and maintained anal-retentive making the shop fix every squeek and rattle. It all depends what you buy, and what records you get.

Like I said, to each their own. Not sure what "non-existent" stock parts may be needed... pretty much anything is available.

I highly, HIGHLY doubt you can performance build or pro tour suspension a car for what it can be rebuilt to stock for.

Last year I bought a wrecked low mile 83 limited. A complete cat back exhaust to the tailpipe - less than 80 bucks, thays intermediate, clamps, muffler, tailpipe. What performance system costs that?

How about cooling? I did new radiator, hoses, tstat, waterpump. Less than $90.

Fuel system? I did a tank, send unit, all rubber lines, fuel pump, and old stock rebuilt carb. Cost under $250.

Stock brakes? Rotors, loaded calipers, rubber lines, shoes, drums, master cylinder and vac booster... $140.

Those vacuum lines? Less than $20 in rubber to replace it all.

You aren't buying go fast parts for what you can fix it to stock. Maybe if you're doing the labor yourself on a go fast build vs a guy who pays a garage to do the stock mechanicals, MAYBE you come out almost even. But equal effort, buying parts the same way (rockauto/parts stores/ebay or seapmeet/junkyard...) Stock is always cheaper.

 

[UNGN]

You seem to be describing the barn find project rather than the survivor. For every low mile car parked by someone who stopped driving, there is another super low mile car the owner stopped driving a month ago, and maintained anal-retentive making the shop fix every squeek and rattle. It all depends what you buy, and what records you get.

Like I said, to each their own. Not sure what "non-existent" stock parts may be needed... pretty much anything is available.

I highly, HIGHLY doubt you can performance build or pro tour suspension a car for what it can be rebuilt to stock for.

Last year I bought a wrecked low mile 83 limited. A complete cat back exhaust to the tailpipe - less than 80 bucks, thays intermediate, clamps, muffler, tailpipe. What performance system costs that?

How about cooling? I did new radiator, hoses, tstat, waterpump. Less than $90.

Fuel system? I did a tank, send unit, all rubber lines, fuel pump, and old stock rebuilt carb. Cost under $250.

Stock brakes? Rotors, loaded calipers, rubber lines, shoes, drums, master cylinder and vac booster... $140.

Those vacuum lines? Less than $20 in rubber to replace it all.

You aren't buying go fast parts for what you can fix it to stock. Maybe if you're doing the labor yourself on a go fast build vs a guy who pays a garage to do the stock mechanicals, MAYBE you come out almost even. But equal effort, buying parts the same way (rockauto/parts stores/ebay or seapmeet/junkyard...) Stock is always cheaper.

Summit's price for a Rebuilt 2bb carb for an 1981 Regal is $364 + $45 core charge.

$400 will go a long way towards buying a better Carb.

 

[ck80]

Summit's price for a Rebuilt 2bb carb for an 1981 Regal is $364 + $45 core charge.

$400 will go a long way towards buying a better Carb.

LOL... Holy pick the most expensive source batman...

Try $229 with lifetime warranty from national carburetor.

You don't like that, rock auto is $268.

Or you could watch ebay for something even cheaper.

All of that presupposes being lazy or having a damaged housing because, really, for $40 you can get a decent carb kit and rebuild what you've got for a tenth of that $400 figure.

There's room in the hobby for all kinds of cars. I'd say a true barn car, or a missing drivetrain and other parts.... yes those may be more suited to hot rod or restomod. But, theres plenty of original cars that are cheaper and easier to keep original as well...