Build Thread: '87 442 . . . Time to turn and stop

[Canon_Mutant]

Here is the link to Viking COs on UMI. Perhaps, in the details, they talk about "a bearing mount for increased reliability and performance" that could be how they distribute the weight of the spring and shock better? I also intend to call them once I have a little better idea what I want to do so I can get a "real actual answer" when I do that.

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_57_326&products_id=885

Is there a link to this S10 setup? I did a search but didn't get hits. Maybe I didn't search properly?? Been known to happen . . .

I am all for NOT spending $1500 on a Baer setup if I don't have to though the Baers should be a great looking and performing solution. I only intend to change wheel size if and only if someone comes out with and oversized SSIII. Since so far it has been nearly impossible to find a stock size SSIII replacement, oversized SSIIIs are unlikely, but I never thought I would see some of these awesome suspension mods either that we are now seeing. I like that stock factory [sleeper] look and frankly nothing depresses me more than seeing and old 442 or H/O with 20" spinners on it . . . but that's just me! Some well coordinated 17s, maybe 18s would be OK but even that would likely require a narrowed rear and wheel well work which I don't want to get into.

thanks a bunch, this dialogue is helpful

 

[Garrett1982]

Look for 2wd blazer spindle swap into G-body.

 

[Dinosport]

I agree on the 20's. Maybe were just old lol. You dont have to change or modify anything to run 17's, even 18's you just run a tire diameter equal to what you have, or prefer. I have 26 inch diameter tires now Im planning to keep that or 27 max. I dont want a nose bleed. lol

 

[Dinosport]

I just looked at that kit from umi. Pretty nice. I would just call and say I know it will bolt and work with the lower control arm but is that advised. How reliable is it? Or should a control arm be replaced. They are 30 plus years old after all to support that weight? See what they say. As for the s10 set up I'll find you a thread and post it for you.

 

[Dinosport]

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/98-05-blazer-brake-upgrade-done.35747/

 

[Dinosport]

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/98-05-blazer-brake-upgrade-done.35747/

 

[Garrett1982]

98+ blazer spindles and hubs. You can run the two piston calipers and the rotors, 10.75 I believe, which I am going with for now, or with an adapter for the caliper run C5 brakes if you find your wheels in a larger size.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Thanks to all the input here and research elsewhere, here's the parts list [I think] . . . Having what I want for the best prices I am going with Spohn and UMI. Sure you can get certain parts cheaper elsewhere but, for example, I won't skimp on A-arm build quality even though they can be had much cheaper. And, I really wanted the tweakability of coil-overs on all 4 corners but I just really cannot justify the nearly 2X expense over the Eibachs and UMI Monotubes.

Comments and Questions welcomed.

Will likely do this in phases for budgetary reasons and mainly just so I don't have a bunch of parts $$ sitting around waiting on me to get around to doing it all. Unfortunately, for example, I was going to run my factory A-arms up front for a while and go tubular later but it doesn't make any sense to tear all that apart to replace springs, rebuild the steering assy, and add new spindles/brakes just to completely tear it all apart later to add the tubular A-arms. So, I am still looking at about $3.5K up front with about $1.5K later. Sure be nice to just do it like $1K at a time but that ain't going to happen . . . never does!

From Spohn:

[to turn]

Tubular Upper & Lower A-Arms Package - 1978-1987 GM G-Body

782-GB
Lower A-Arms: 782-G - Black
980G
Lower A-Arms Hardware: Add Mounting Hardware
755B
Upper A-Arms: 755 - Poly - Black
973G
Upper A-Arms Hardware: Add Mounting Hardware
Upper Ball Joints: No Upper Ball Joints
Bushing Grease: None

Spohn Precision Front End Rebuild Kit - 1978-1987 GM G-Body
Lower Ball Joints: Lower Ball Joints - Qty. 2
Upper Ball Joints: SuperTravel Upper Ball Joints - Qty. 2

Eibach Pro Performance Lowering Springs - 1978-1987 GM G-Body

SUBTOTAL: $1460

From UMI:

[to hookup better]

1978-1988 GM G-Body Boxed Lower Control Arms - Poly/Roto-Joint

• Grease - No Thanks
• Spanner Wrench - Add Roto-Joint Spanner Wrench
• Color - Black
• New Hardware - Add New Rear Control Arm Hardware

1978-1988 GM G-Body Adjustable Upper Control Arms - w/Roto-Joint

• Grease - No Thanks
• Rear-End Housing Bushing - Add Rear-End Housing Bushing for 1965 & Up
• Color - Black
• New Hardware - Add New Rear Control Arm Hardware
• Spanner Wrench - No Thanks

[to turn]

1978-1988 GM G-Body UMI Street Performance Monotube Shock Package, Set of 4

1978-1988 GM G-Body 3/4" Solid Rear Sway Bar, Auto-x/Road Race

• Grease - No Thanks
• Color - Black
• Kit Configuration - 3052-275- 2.750” Rear end housings, factory rear end

1978-1988 GM G-Body 1.25" Solid Chrome Moly Front Sway Bar

• Color - Black
• Grease - No Thanks

Sub-Total: $1,654

From Wilwood:

[to stop]

Front:
140-12297-D Forged Dynalite Big Front Brake Kit
220-7056 Brake Line Kit

Rear:
140-13511-D Forged Dynalite Big Rear Brake Kit
220-7056 Brake Line Kit

Sub-Total: $1805

Ca-Ching: [made my $5K budget though barely!]
Total: $4919

I've got the extra F41 bracing I will go with for now. I may add additional bracing later if it still feels like it's needed? ====> Likely!

I will start from here on trying to document the build as I proceed.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Well, this ^ list didn't last long. For purely budgetary reasons, I am going to try and live with my factory CAs for now and, combined with just shopping around a bit for better pricing and leaving the drum brakes out back for now, this will be only $3K instead of nearly $5K.

First order will be from Summit: ~ $600 <= actually finally placing this order this week!

Eibach Pro Springs
Bilstein front and rear AKs
Energy Suspension control arm poly bushings

Once I get the factory control arms off, blasted and coated, and back on with all the above . . .

From UMI: ~ $750

Relocation Brackets
Boxed Lower Control Arm - w/ Poly front and Roto-joint rear
Adjustable Upper Control Arms - w/Roto-Joint

Once I get the rear UMI'd . . .

From Spohn: ~ $1000

Spohn Precision Front End Rebuild Kit - 1978-1987 GM G-Body
Premium Lower Ball Joints: Qty. 2
Premium Super Travel Upper Ball Joints: Qty. 2

Wilwood Pro larger front rotors and 4 piston calipers

And finally from Hotchkis: ~ $625

G-body Extreme Sway Bar Set

So:
$600
$750
$1000
$625

$2975 [the wife will be SO happy!]

 

[theoldsone]

Very nice list. It is similar to what I did with my chassis. Those bushings aren't easy to get to at all. Hope you have an air hammer to knock out those sleeves. And you'll most likely need a ball joint press. Hope all goes well. Keep up the good work.