Build Thread: '87 442 . . . Time to turn and stop

[Canon_Mutant]

Good catch xitabl442! They are not adjustable. And, no doubt why they are cheaper [than UMI, Hotchkis, SPC etc.].

SPCs are quite high too. Price looks good until you realize it is just for one . . . who is going to buy one?

Just got to thinking . . . we got a $500 VISA debit card as a part of the big VW TDI scandal and $500 + Spohn Price = Adjustable! 😎

I'm sure the wife would love to spend it but I think it is my turn . . .

So, I'll have to get out my new (^4) list together. Had UMI CAs on the original list and will likely lean back that way.

Since I punted the coil overs, I am [back to] putting on Eibach Pro springs and was under the impression that a longer lower BJ lowers the car even more. Eibach says 1-1.5" lowering on average and I frankly like the stock look so I don't want to go any lower. Per previous threads I've read the longer upper BJ makes most of the difference.
But, that's why I'm here. To figure this out . . . HOPEFULLY!

Thanks . . .

 

[xitabl442]

A pair of UMI adjustable with tall ball joint is $550. The SPCs with ball joints from SC&C are $510-$550 depending on ball joint selection.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Yup, just looking for something . . . less expensive. Not going to find it cheaper if it's adjustable. And there are some, like Hotchkis, that are more expensive even though they are not adjustable.

UMI and SPC are pretty much a coin toss. Since I'm going UMI on the rear control arms, I will likely just order CAs from them.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

While you are doing all this work, you should also think about reinforcing the frame and body. One of the weakest areas are the rear LCA frame mounts. Plenty of turbo Buicks have twisted or sheared their LCA mounts. Boxed arms and poly bushings transmit more stress into the LCA mounts.

 

[xitabl442]

Just curious if you need the header room from installing adjustable UCAs? I guess you could argue that, like the coil over debate, once it's set, you won't mess with it. You would probably be fine with nonadjustables. They have additional caster built into them. I have stock lowers in my car yet, I was told they are plenty strong on these cars. You could save some money that way??

 

[MC96]

The adjustables I make are cheaper, and just as good if not better, ball joint is still separate like the SPCs, but you have just as many or more choices in length between QA1 & Howe

Some of you may have seen them on some of the G body Facebook groups, here's a screen snip of the ad

Got a set ready to go, get with me asap if you want them Im leaving for Vegas @ 2 pm eastern, can always do it next week though too.


I agree with what xitabl442 said, lowers are plenty strong IMCA modifeds have to have stock lowers and they hold up just fine. Other than moving the ball joint forward there isn't a whole lot gained over a stock set with poly bushings. Im even saying that as someone who makes lowers too.

He brought up a good point about header clearance as well. Most people do not think about all the space gained when you are not running shims anymore.

There is more to be gained by adjusting bump steer and caster, as well as your camber gain with ball joint lengths. These are things that can be fixed with bolt on parts but since every car is slightly different from the factory and most have different combinations of mods done, this stuff really needs to be measured and adjusted accordingly, not something I would recommend just buying off the shelf parts for.

 

[xitabl442]

I had to trim the UCA mount for my SPCs, do yours clear with out the trim?

The adjustables I make are cheaper, and just as good if not better, ball joint is still separate like the SPCs, but you have just as many or more choices in length between QA1 & Howe

Some of you may have seen them on some of the G body Facebook groups, here's a screen snip of the ad

View attachment 52347



Got a set ready to go, get with me asap if you want them Im leaving for Vegas @ 2 pm eastern, can always do it next week though too.


I agree with what xitabl442 said, lowers are plenty strong IMCA modifeds have to have stock lowers and they hold up just fine. Other than moving the ball joint forward there isn't a whole lot gained over a stock set with poly bushings. Im even saying that as someone who makes lowers too.

He brought up a good point about header clearance as well. Most people do not think about all the space gained when you are not running shims anymore.

There is more to be gained by adjusting bump steer and caster, as well as your camber gain with ball joint lengths. These are things that can be fixed with bolt on parts but since every car is slightly different from the factory and most have different combinations of mods done, this stuff really needs to be measured and adjusted accordingly, not something I would recommend just buying off the shelf parts for.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Been on vacation for a week. Thanks for all the replies.

The coilover debate is really tough. Though it is true that I will not be under there twisting knobs regularly, I hope to start driving this car around my state, to neighboring states, to shows, meets, etc., and will gladly visit a local track that is available while there. So, having the ability to ride plushly on the road and then tighten it up noticeably before I knock down cones, I mean, rule the track . . . would be nice. That said, would a really good spring/shock combo [i.e. Eibachs w/ Bilstein AKs] get me where I want to go? Likely . . . but UMI is having their sale right now too 😎

Right now, Spohn Lowers with adjustable UMI uppers seem to be the biggest front CA bang for the buck . . .

I do NOT nor will I ever have headers to mess with. I intentionally sought out some WZ manifolds for this build because headers are a PITA. An '87 442 with 400HP/500lb.ft. that I can actually hook up is plenty respectable enough for me. When I got it running, the car actually surprised me how well it performs [in a straight line] given my nearly no traction problem. This motor with the heavily beefed 4 speed auto and the 3.73 posi out back is just geared really well. When it grabs the next gear I am right where I want to be in the power band.

On beefing up the rear CA mounts, I am planning on installing these . . . are you suggesting further metal work?

 

[Streetbu]

I would recommend the frame braces that weld in too. I just installed the upper and lower ones on my frame.
Lowers

Uppers

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Well, parts are ordered. I took advantage of July 4th sales at Spohn and UMI to get the more expensive stuff ordered [except for name brand new brakes that never seem to go on sale] plus finally bit the bullet and just made a decision to go springs/shocks instead of coilovers. This first order will keep me busy for a while . . . I hope to start taking before/after pics.

$1650 now [saved about $400]

From Summit: $525

Eibach Pro Lowering Springs
Bilstein AK shocks front and rear

From Spohn: $625

Lower Front Tubular Control Arm 1/2" taller BJs <= These look VERY well made and are $100 cheaper than UMI
Premium Steering Rebuild Kit

From UMI: $500

Adjustable Upper Front Tubular Control Arm, 1/2" taller BJs.

Later on . . . ~ $1615 - $2140

From Spohn: $815

Wilwood Pro 12" rotors w/ 4 piston calipers
New Body Bushings

From UMI: $800

Boxed Lower Rear Control Arms Poly/Roto
Lowering Brackets
Adjustable Upper Rear Control Arms Poly/Roto
Control Arm Reinforcement Braces

From Hotchkis: [if my F41s just don't cut it] $625

Front/Rear Extreme Swaybar Set

And I still need to make my wheel/tire decision but I am getting closer on that account too!