Cam Upgrade???

[efigp83]

an 850 is overkill yes for regular driving... But it will really help those big cubes breath at 6800rpm. With the right jetting, he can gain some numbers at the track.

I got to say though my injection was the best money i ever spent, although the price has gotten really high for it. Takes a lot of the guess work out of f'ing with a carb. I get about 18mpg with my set-up.

 

[Black Sheep]

You need to concentrate on the suspension, both front and rear. Your mph says 11's, but your e.t. says traction problems. If you're not getting at least a 1.70 60' time now, changing the cam is a waste of money.

My old motor with 100 hp less was in the elevens, thanks to a 1.58 60' time.

 

[chevy2480]

You need to concentrate on the suspension, both front and rear. Your mph says 11's, but your e.t. says traction problems. If you're not getting at least a 1.70 60' time now, changing the cam is a waste of money.

My old motor with 100 hp less was in the elevens, thanks to a 1.58 60' time.

His mph is right where it should be for his E.T.
A 1.58. 60 is pushing high tens.

 

[chevy2480]

I would look into a head and cam upgrade and i will explain why. As of right know i know your head and combo is mostlikely holding your bottom end back. My reason for saying this is your heads flow max lift on intake is at .500 lift which your dam nere maxed its flow ability out now. So buy putting a bigger cam in it with those heads you will create a monster out of the hole but will slow it down on top end because heads cant breath no more. Bump up to a 215 head then up the cam and you will be in the low to mid 11's. I know its costly but why bother with a cam when it really is not going to get what you want. I been down this road for years until i started realizeing the heads are where the power is. Get a good top end and the bottom end will reveal itself.

 

[JBreu]

I am running the nitto drag radials at the present time. I plan on grabbing some slicks for next year to try. My suspension is bone stock, with the exception of the adjustable upper and lower control arms from UMI. Plans are to run Lakewood drag shocks 90/10 up fropnt and 60/40 in the rear and to add moroso trick springs all the way around. I think that should hhelp out, by how much though I won't know until then.. I also plan in switching my SUmmit Turbo mufflers to flowmaster super 40's as well..

 

[crotchss]

I would agree alot of power is in the heads. Depending on where you go it may be cheaper and potentially your heads will flow better if you take them some where to get a professional hand porting job on them. Alot of the cylinder heads my buddy uses on his IMCA dirt modified start off as a 200cc runner head and end up around 227-229cc or so after being professionally hand ported. They flow better than a CNC only head of the same or bigger runner size, and if I remember right runs him about $1200 maybe a little more(I can't remember). I also think though that if you update to a newer hydraulic or solid roller design you could get 11's too(I'd say hydraulic if you drive mostly on the streets daily). Don't forget to run better springs for the added lifter weight and I would highly recommend a hydra-rev kit also to help control the valve train better. Even my set of AFR 210's on my SS have been hand ported and flow more than they did out of the box and they were the Competition version with 100% CNC porting throughout the entire head. Of course they were done 7 years ago and the price I paid was $800 back then, but you could tell the power difference compared to before. Now don't quote me on this, but I believe after the dyno run it had picked up somewhere around 23-27 hp, although the torque only moved up 5 or so. I'll have to look at my dyno pull sheets to be sure, so you have a few options to try.

 

[efigp83]

I also agree with the statements about porting the heads. Like I said before, I have the same heads as yours, but are not ported. Was going to have them done but my first child was on his way 6 years ago so I needed to get the motor together as quickly as I could. Now 6 years later I maybe pulling the heads off next winter to hav them done. Also the cam I am running is a hydralic roller 540/562 lift 242/248 duration with a 110 centerline. I have a guy in the chicagoland area that has a flow bench in his garage that he uses after he is done so he can see the results right away. Not to convinced that suspension will get you into the 11's alone. My friend runs a SS with a 383 and all he has for suspension is drag shocks and an air bag in the r/r spring. He foot brakes and his best pass to date is 10.90.

 

[Black Sheep]

His mph is right where it should be for his E.T.
A 1.58. 60 is pushing high tens.

Don't know where you got your info, but it's not correct. Using my personal car that I have raced for the past 15 years, and the shoebox full of timeslips, anytime it ran 109mph the e.t. was between 11.90 and 12.10. I consistantly pull 1.58 60' times (last 3 runs were 1.582, 1.585, 1.588). Even got pics of a 12 sec. car with the wheels off the ground.


Anyway, JBreu, I still stand by my statement that your car is already a 11 sec ride (or damn close) with some traction tuning. With the 1st. gear of the 700r4, a 3200 stall, and 4.10 gears, that car should launch like a truck hit it. Lots of good reading here: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewt ... =5&t=51796

Also, please post up your timeslip, including all the incrementals (60', 330', 1/8 mile, etc...)

 

[JBreu]

Here are my best track results to date:
R/T .528
60' 1.73 ( spun a lil)
330 5.10
1/8 7.942 @ 86.72 mph
1000' 10.397
1/4 12.479 @ 108.10 mph

All in all I'm haooy with the 1/4 time as I drive my car there and back home..I just want the 11's 🙂

 

[chevy2480]

His mph is right where it should be for his E.T.
A 1.58. 60 is pushing high tens.

Don't know where you got your info, but it's not correct. Using my personal car that I have raced for the past 15 years, and the shoebox full of timeslips, anytime it ran 109mph the e.t. was between 11.90 and 12.10. I consistantly pull 1.58 60' times (last 3 runs were 1.582, 1.585, 1.588). Even got pics of a 12 sec. car with the wheels off the ground.


Anyway, JBreu, I still stand by my statement that your car is already a 11 sec ride (or damn close) with some traction tuning. With the 1st. gear of the 700r4, a 3200 stall, and 4.10 gears, that car should launch like a truck hit it. Lots of good reading here: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewt ... =5&t=51796

Also, please post up your timeslip, including all the incrementals (60', 330', 1/8 mile, etc...)

Well thats good i got a station wagon full of over 500 time slips with my best 60ft being 1.62 and my car being lazy on top end and still going 11.50's all day at 110. I have a buddy with a solid 9.30 shoebox nova that pull 1.48 60. I was stateing your car should be faster. Anyway his car does have 11's in it as i previosly stated way before you did that he needs to tune. I also stated that his heads are a little on the small side for a 388 stroker. And again his mph and et all add up. But i guess i can say that 60 ft and et can be everywhere all cars pull different for instance my GN pulled a 1.85 60 and went 12.58@106 with the trans slipping and leaving on no boost. Now does that add up.