no in pointing the contact on dizy directly at the #1 plug on block is that correct ??stomis said:
Can someone please help me with this
- Thread starter jayjohnson1966
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jayjohnson1966 said:
Wait hold on. Your pointing the rotor contact at the #1 plug on the block? As in point it towards the driver front side of the car?
Because if thats what your saying its not correct. Try this: Get to TDC on compression, drop your dizzy in, doesnt matter what direction just drop it in with the rotor point generally forward. Now put your cap on and rotate the dizzy itself so that one of the contacts on the cap line up with the rotor. Now start your firing order from that contact.
It doesnt matter what direction you start number one at as long as you properly continue your firing order properly from that starting point.
i was going to do it today but its raining here in jersey hopefully it stops so i can do it todaypontiacgp said:
ok im going totry that as soon as the rain stops ..so let me hear u on this correctly your saying get the cylinder #1 tdc then drop the dizzy in no matter which direction it points as long a it faces the front of motor (fan Front )then drop my cap on
stomis said:
What I'm saying is technically it doesnt matter where you face the rotor as long as you start the firing order at that terminal on the distributor cap.
Get it out of your head that the whole pointing the rotor at #1 or straight forward has anything to do with the engine block itself. Your completely going off of the cap and where #1 is going to be ON THE CAP NOT THE MOTOR.
Get it out of your head that the whole pointing the rotor at #1 or straight forward has anything to do with the engine block itself. Your completely going off of the cap and where #1 is going to be ON THE CAP NOT THE MOTOR.
Man, this is giving me a headache just reading this. Try this- have a friend crank the motor while you watch the timing mark on the balancer and cover with a timing light hooked to #1 plug wire. It will flash each time #1 fires and If it is not firing at 0 or whatever the tune-up label on the shroud says then turn the distributor until it does. (The manual had no timing spec and said to consult the tune-up label since you are using the CCC distributor). When the timing light shows proper timing the motor should start and run. If not firing anywhere near 0, then go back and do what was previously posted about verifying TDC at #1 then indexing the rotor and cap for #1 cylinder. Retest with timing light. If you do all that, it's timed correctly, and it won't start, then the timing chain is suspect but I would pull a valve cover first and double check. You can watch the cam open and close the valves and use the balancer as a rough guide to check the cam specs. At TDC, from the 0 timing mark, mark the balancer. Half way around is 180*, 1/4 way is 90*, 1/8 is 45* and half of that is 22.5*. Check the opening and closing of the intake valve against the cam specs. If way off, you will need to open the timing cover and re-do it. If everything checks out, let us know and we will go from there.
I have helped several buddies with a 180 degree problem, the easiest,quickest way to determine if you are 180 out is to flip all your wires 180,straight across the cap from one another. If that solves the problem THEN pull your distributor and flip it 180. How did I figure this out? That is what I did with my first engine rebuild 28 years ago, and luckily an old timer was watching, and flipped my wires and she popped right off. He, however, suggested that I leave it that way, just to mess with the next guy who might work on it. 😀
oh ok thanx alot i will try this tommorow morning when the rain stops my car doesnt have cover ... thanx again
stomis said:
ok imma try this also tommorow when the rain stops man you guys on here are very very helpful and this is my dream car and can get it started to here it 🙁 ... but i have faith that u guys on here will get me up and running thanx alot... johnBonnewagon said:
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