$200-$400 really limits what you can do. You will have to decide whether you are going to keep your car emmision compliant or not, and any real performance gains will come at the expense of eliminating your computer controlled carb and distributor. Most of the guys on this site are not real crazy about about emmision controls or small displacement V8's. The basic performance upgrade would be to install a mild performance cam and lifters, valve springs, performance intake manifold(Edelbrock performer for example), carb(many choices), vacuum advance distributor(older factory HEI is fine) and a set of headers with dual exhausts. But you would far exceed $200-$400. Swapping out your engine you would still need to upgrade your exhaust system to realize any power increase. If you take it in steps, I think a nice set of dual pipes(with cats if you chose to stay emmision compliant) would be a good place to start. Then if you chose to add an intake/carb and camshaft later the engine can already breath on the exhaust side. Just my thoughts. The new pipes will already be there when you decide to swap in that killer motor.
Cheap horsepower on V8 G-Body?
- Thread starter CaliCuttie
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First off everyone, she lives in California and has an 86 Cutlass. That means the car has an Oldsmobile 307, NOT a Chevy 305. Now, the biggest issue with performance that you will have is that you have the 307. There are not too many parts available for it, and to get any real gains will take internal modifications to the engine or a swap to a larger engine. The heads have ports which will not align with performance intake manifolds, and in my estimation, the K&N filter element is a waste of money. If you want to improve air flow, you will want to go with the air filter base off a HO 307 powered Cutlass 442 or Hurst Olds. Sadly, even with more compression, a bigger cam, free-er flowing exhaust, larger catalytic converter, better gears and the dual snorkel air filter, the 442 variant of this car is a dog. It does 0-60 in 9.8 seconds according to GM literature, which is not fast at all, even by the standards of the mid 80's. So, what would I do to improve the car? I would source a larger engine and figure out how to keep it emissions compliant. The Olds 350 would be first on my list as it can be made to look stock under the hood of your car and retain the factory emissions hardware. As you face an IM 240 test and a strict visual, this may not be enough. I would speak with an Olds specialist or two in your area before spending any cash. For my money, I would build the 350 in such a way as to enhance combustion efficiency and idle quality. Put the compression at around 9.5:1 and use a head and piston combination that promotes good quench. Consider using pistons with relatively high ring lands respective to stock as this, along with the quench, will help to reduce NOX emissions (NOX emissions are sensitive to dead space in the combustion chamber and around the pistons). Use a cam with a wide lobe separation angle to reduce hydrocarbon emissions and improve low speed cylinder pressure. Remember that as you increase compression you increase efficiency up until you reach detonation. As for CO emissions, I do not remember how to reduce them in an engine build at this time.
Can you do much for your budget? Sadly, no. The best you can do is a swap to better gearing in the rear axle. Use a 3.23 or 3.42. 3.73's are a bit overboard even though they are what Olds used in the 442. The next best thing would be a swap to a 3 inch catalytic converter and an aftermarket cat back exhaust. Avoid the cat back from Dynomax as it has a poor design for the Y pipe. I think Hooker has a better one. Opt for quieter mufflers if possible to avoid run ins with the police. You will want to look for an exhaust for either a 442, Monte SS or Grand National. The Y pipe and cat is larger in these models, so they flow better. Plus, these mods can be helpful in the future should you decide to swap the 307 for a 350.
As for how these basic mods help, let's start with the gearing. Essentially, the gear ratio is the mechanical advantage of the rear axle. Mechanical advantage is simplest to explain by thinking of a wrench. The longer the wrench, the more torque is applied to the fastener and the easier it is to turn. So, by changing gears, you increase the amount of torque seen at the wheel. With the wrench, the trade off is that you have to move the end of the longer wrench more distance to move the bolt the same distance as with a shorter wrench. With gears, it means the engine spins at a higher RPM. So, if you had to spin the engine at 1,000 RPM to go a certain speed with a 2:1 ratio, you would have to now spin it at 1,500 RPM to go the same speed if the gear ratio was 3:1. Simple, right? That is also why you don't want to go too far with the gearing in a street car. It will kill your fuel economy by spinning the engine faster than it needs to go all the time. There is more theory to it, but that's the basics. As for the other changes, They relate to air flow. A less restrictive exhaust lets the engine breathe better and climb faster through the RPM band. Why a larger engine? The 307 is hard to get to breathe due to the size of the bore which limits the size of the valves. It is a 2 valve engine, so it is limited in valve size to a total diameter of the 2 valves not to exceed the diameter of the bore of the cylinder. You need a minimum of a 4 inch bore to breathe well in most 2 valve V8 engines. This is not so in a 4 valve engine, but that is for another day.
Can you do much for your budget? Sadly, no. The best you can do is a swap to better gearing in the rear axle. Use a 3.23 or 3.42. 3.73's are a bit overboard even though they are what Olds used in the 442. The next best thing would be a swap to a 3 inch catalytic converter and an aftermarket cat back exhaust. Avoid the cat back from Dynomax as it has a poor design for the Y pipe. I think Hooker has a better one. Opt for quieter mufflers if possible to avoid run ins with the police. You will want to look for an exhaust for either a 442, Monte SS or Grand National. The Y pipe and cat is larger in these models, so they flow better. Plus, these mods can be helpful in the future should you decide to swap the 307 for a 350.
As for how these basic mods help, let's start with the gearing. Essentially, the gear ratio is the mechanical advantage of the rear axle. Mechanical advantage is simplest to explain by thinking of a wrench. The longer the wrench, the more torque is applied to the fastener and the easier it is to turn. So, by changing gears, you increase the amount of torque seen at the wheel. With the wrench, the trade off is that you have to move the end of the longer wrench more distance to move the bolt the same distance as with a shorter wrench. With gears, it means the engine spins at a higher RPM. So, if you had to spin the engine at 1,000 RPM to go a certain speed with a 2:1 ratio, you would have to now spin it at 1,500 RPM to go the same speed if the gear ratio was 3:1. Simple, right? That is also why you don't want to go too far with the gearing in a street car. It will kill your fuel economy by spinning the engine faster than it needs to go all the time. There is more theory to it, but that's the basics. As for the other changes, They relate to air flow. A less restrictive exhaust lets the engine breathe better and climb faster through the RPM band. Why a larger engine? The 307 is hard to get to breathe due to the size of the bore which limits the size of the valves. It is a 2 valve engine, so it is limited in valve size to a total diameter of the 2 valves not to exceed the diameter of the bore of the cylinder. You need a minimum of a 4 inch bore to breathe well in most 2 valve V8 engines. This is not so in a 4 valve engine, but that is for another day.
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
Good post, friend. That helps a lot. How's the fuel economy on those 350s and what car would I be taking it out of? Seems like my 307 is pretty restrictive on what can be done. I have contemplated maybe an LT1 or LS1 swap from a 90s Chevy or Pontiac along with the transmission from the same donor car, and from what I'm seeing on craigslist, this can be bought for under $1000, engine and transmission. Additional parts and labor is another thing altogether though but seems like a viable alternative if smog is an issue. (My understanding is that you can either put a newer engine or an engine from the same year in your car and it's legal by the visual standards).
oh and for those that asked, its a stock 307 Olds V8, with the 4-speed automatic that came on just I guess Cuttys with the bucket seat option.
By the way, I'm a guy haha.
lol.. you do realize your screen name says cuttie... wich looks like cutie instead of cutty... which is what i think you meant to say. loll. but for all i know you might have meant cutie.. lol
cars are chicks though right, so why not? haha. Yeah I was going for Cutty though. damn2000.malibu.ls said:
lol see i wasnt sure.. i mean lol you arrree from california lol...
yes... car chicks are.. i need to find some lol.
yes... car chicks are.. i need to find some lol.
the ls1 swapp would be the best idea if you want to keep good gas mileage, decent HP and reliability.
Mike,
I agree with 85CB, it's going to depend on your emissions rules where you're at. And like him I would also look to get a 350 or 403 (preferring the 350). You can look in 68 - 79 cars for the 350 Olds, non-diesel of course. Some folks refer to the Olds motors as "Rocket" so if you start searching for one make sure you say like "Rocket 350" or 350 Olds, something like that. If you just say you're looking for a 350, 99% of folks are going to think you're talking about a Chevy. Proof of this is this thread, see how quick it jumped from you stating you had a 86 Cutlass with a STOCK motor to it having a 305, to you being better off getting a 350 (Chevy). Also keeping it Olds can be somewhat less of a hassle when swapping over accessories. But again, it's your car and budget.
I think you need to get a plan together of what you want to do with car and a budget of what you can spend (which you're going to blow time & time again), then go from there. This can kind of cut out some things that may sound cool but really aren't what you're looking for, saving you cash in the end. You may also want to spend some time getting her in good running order, fixing things that need atttention. More times than not a higher-performing engine will let you know how bad your cooling system is, how crappy your transmission is, or how weak you rear end or brakes are.
But the first thing is to decode the car, look up the RPO codes from the trunk lid sticker. Next is to really find out about the emissions laws, what you can & can't do. And once you find that out, ask again, then one more time. By you being in Cali it changes day to day.
Good luck, keep us posted.
I agree with 85CB, it's going to depend on your emissions rules where you're at. And like him I would also look to get a 350 or 403 (preferring the 350). You can look in 68 - 79 cars for the 350 Olds, non-diesel of course. Some folks refer to the Olds motors as "Rocket" so if you start searching for one make sure you say like "Rocket 350" or 350 Olds, something like that. If you just say you're looking for a 350, 99% of folks are going to think you're talking about a Chevy. Proof of this is this thread, see how quick it jumped from you stating you had a 86 Cutlass with a STOCK motor to it having a 305, to you being better off getting a 350 (Chevy). Also keeping it Olds can be somewhat less of a hassle when swapping over accessories. But again, it's your car and budget.
I think you need to get a plan together of what you want to do with car and a budget of what you can spend (which you're going to blow time & time again), then go from there. This can kind of cut out some things that may sound cool but really aren't what you're looking for, saving you cash in the end. You may also want to spend some time getting her in good running order, fixing things that need atttention. More times than not a higher-performing engine will let you know how bad your cooling system is, how crappy your transmission is, or how weak you rear end or brakes are.
But the first thing is to decode the car, look up the RPO codes from the trunk lid sticker. Next is to really find out about the emissions laws, what you can & can't do. And once you find that out, ask again, then one more time. By you being in Cali it changes day to day.
Good luck, keep us posted.
Anything in Cali that is not car/year specific or CARB approved is illegal.
The mandatory visual inspection of the vehicle prior to an official state required smog-check may result in immediate failure of the test if a non-exempt part is identified.
So even if the car would pass a smog check. It would still fail before it even got to the smog check.
Whether or not they fail you automaticly on the visual is on them.
As of 01/01/2009 No high flow cats are allowed in Cali
Invest in an engine lift and get ready to swing your stock engine in and your "fun" engine out during inspection times!!!!!
OR
California, smog-checks are required in populated areas, but not in selected rural areas.
Get a PO Box in a rural area and register your car to the PO Box address.
The mandatory visual inspection of the vehicle prior to an official state required smog-check may result in immediate failure of the test if a non-exempt part is identified.
So even if the car would pass a smog check. It would still fail before it even got to the smog check.
Whether or not they fail you automaticly on the visual is on them.
As of 01/01/2009 No high flow cats are allowed in Cali
Invest in an engine lift and get ready to swing your stock engine in and your "fun" engine out during inspection times!!!!!
OR
California, smog-checks are required in populated areas, but not in selected rural areas.
Get a PO Box in a rural area and register your car to the PO Box address.
TURNA said:
haha, sneaky sneaky. i like the PO Box idea, something to definitely consider. This wouldn't raise any red flags with the DMV would it?
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