Hmnn either stroke it for some street car torque or sell it to raise some money to build/buy something exciting. I know the trouble with that plan is it usually takes more time and you want to be driving her asap. Then again it never hurts to ask on any of the forums if anyone has anything like what you would really like to put in her, for sale. Sometime you run across something somebody else built for cheap because they ran into financial troubles. Never hurts to check with some of the premier builder/shops either. Sometimes they have stuff with lots of their own time and money in and now somebody can't pay for it. Had a buddy bought a great engine this way because the shop gave him the phone number to the wife of the guy who had the engine built but left for a surprise prison sentence and would never be able to pay for it. He bought it for pennys on the dollar as to acquiring & building that motor. He could even afford to make some changes to get it how he wanted it for what he had in it.
Chevy 355 buildup
- Thread starter crash
- Start date
- Status
That's how I got my 455... It was an abandoned project at the machine shop where a friend of mine worked.
Guy had all sorts of plans to build the motor, then sold the car it was in.
I got the block, C heads, crank, rods, and most of the brackets for $200... and a new set of .030 over pistons for $100.
Guy had all sorts of plans to build the motor, then sold the car it was in.
I got the block, C heads, crank, rods, and most of the brackets for $200... and a new set of .030 over pistons for $100.
sounds like your definately heading the right direction. the 280h is a great cam my brother had one in a camaro ported cylinder heads at about 9.5 to 1.you should step up to a better intake and more carburator if possible. an rpm air gap and a 750cfm holley or quick fuel or even an edlebrock (if you can get it to work) and i think you should be in the 375 to 400 ish range. and it should make a decent amount of torque as well
Supposedly people are saying that the Air Gap isn't even worth the money vs a Performer RPM. The only advantages it offers is the notched plane divider to basically function the same as a carb spacer. On a dyno it makes better numbers but I don't really see it to help very much under an enclosed engine bay, which basically that valley seems useless. I'd love to be proven wrong though because I would love to get one.
Better intake / carb might come some day, but for now gotta stick with what I have. Either way, I think I will run a bit better then a 14.33 when I go to the track in a couple weeks 
how do better numbers on a dyno not directly indicate a better mainifold? yes the engine may not me at "optimum" operating conditions in the car. the air gap does have longer runners and the "gap" helps keep the air charge cooler = more power.
Hey don't shoot the messenger here, I'm just saying that lots of people are against spending $250 on an intake because of a "cooler air charge" theory. I can definately see the pro's and con's, I'd much rather see a track time and car on the dyno comparison rather than just an engine dyno comparison.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/archive/i ... 74965.html
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/rpm-per ... 03012.html
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/archive/i ... 74965.html
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/rpm-per ... 03012.html
I wasnt meaning to shoot the messenger. My point was the dyno doesnt lie. If its better on the dyno its most likely going to be better on the street. Quite honestly though I was running a performer rpm on my 305 with a 750 eldebrock, and switched it to the rpm air gap with a 750 holley and went from running a 14.8 to running a 14.3 but I beleive part of that was from the carburator. My dad is an engine builder and I have the difference on the dyno between the two mainifolds. yYs there are way better ways to spend $250. cam, gears, nitrous or what ever, but mainfold to manifold the rpm air gap is better through the whole rpm range.
I should have the engine back at the end of this week. I am definitely happy that I went with the 280h and not a smaller cam as the engine already had that cam in it :lol: So, looks like the only real difference will be the heads, but the builder said I should easily see 350 - 375 hp out of it.
Here is what is being done to the engine..
Block tanked / cleaned and decked to clean the surface up
cylinders honed
new rings, rod bearings, main bearings, cam bearings
ARP rod bolts
balancing the rotating assembly
280h cam
Trick Flow heads ( 195 cc intake runners, 64cc chambers, 2.02/1.60 valves )
Trick Flow 1.5 ratio aluminum roller rockers
Edelbrock Performer intake ( RPM or Air Gap will be next summer )
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb ( bigger carb next summer )
Also picked up a TransGo Performance shift reprogramming kit for the 200-4R trans.
Here is what is being done to the engine..
Block tanked / cleaned and decked to clean the surface up
cylinders honed
new rings, rod bearings, main bearings, cam bearings
ARP rod bolts
balancing the rotating assembly
280h cam
Trick Flow heads ( 195 cc intake runners, 64cc chambers, 2.02/1.60 valves )
Trick Flow 1.5 ratio aluminum roller rockers
Edelbrock Performer intake ( RPM or Air Gap will be next summer )
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb ( bigger carb next summer )
Also picked up a TransGo Performance shift reprogramming kit for the 200-4R trans.
- Status
Similar threads
