Well, I would love to hear your stories about that! Everyone I have ever known who rebuilds their own stuff (not having someone at a shop do it for them) has had the same experience as I have.
You tear down your chevy small block and do all the measurements. If the block was made roughly between 1973 and 1987 there is a great chance that every tolerance is so loose that it has to take a trip to the machine shop. I have had some older chevy stuff from the 60's that wasn't like that and some of the last fuel injected stuff from 87 and up that has been somewhat better about it, but the majority of what we got or sourced at the wrecking yard was in need of a full work-up. Now, if you are one of the guys that MUST take every engine you tear down to the machine shop, then we can stop here. If you do that to everything, then yes they are all the same and our conflict ends there.
I don't do that. I re-use everything possible because I am always on a severe budget. That doesn't mean that I don't want to be fast or reliable. I do; but I must use the best of what I have and keep the machine work to a minimum. From this aspect, the Buick, Olds, and Pontiac (and even Cadillac) stuff far surpasses the recycled chevy stuff that I come across. I have torn down Buick and Olds engines with hundreds of thousands of miles, found a little ridge at the top of the bore, and been able to re-use the block as is, withing factory spec. Not just once, but nearly every time. I say nearly, because usually if someone has since RE-MACHINED the block for someone, it is usually in trouble. Lots of machine shops think all GMs are chevy so they don't machine them properly. Not all, but many do.
I will do all assembly and prep possible right in my garage. From this standpoint, I cannot afford to build small block chevy engines. By the time they come from the machine shop, the block, crank and rods in the short block alone have busted my budget more times than not. Most of my Buick or Olds stuff that I have built was able to go back into service with just an overhaul kit. Sometimes a little emery paper on the crank, but not much! The rods are stronger from stock and so are the cranks and even the pistons.
The cylinder blocks and heads of Buick and Olds engines tend to made of higher nickel alloy castings. That makes them less prone to cracked heads (a chevy achilles heel) and cracked blocks. It also means you can run unleaded fuel in them without cutting the heads for seats that fall out (another chevy problem) with little or no side effects. The cranks tend to be made of nodular iron or forged steel so they are plenty strong as well. Ever wonder the REAL reason that the chevy block has 5 bolts per head? The truth is scarier than the fiction that it is a better design. It had to be that way because the block warps more under high heat. The magic 5th bolt keeps it together under the stress that it undergoes. That is also part of the reason that they always need bored from being out-of-round when they are torn down. Uneven torque spacing and lower nickel content ensure that it makes it past the warranty period, but not past the machine shop at overhaul.
Now, there certainly were "problem" engines associated with the B-O-P family, but they are the exception rather than the rule. The 265/301 for Pontiac, and the 307 for Olds certainly produced a few bad stories. But I think they are the fewer than more. For Chevy, I can flip that and give stories of the "good" ones, and then use the "rod through the side of the block" story for most of the rest.
Which ones of your many Buicks did you have the problems with at rebuild time? Maybe we can help so that it doesn't repeat itself or maybe I will learn something...