choosing an alternator
- Thread starter krazykyle
- Start date
- Status
355 chevy ati 3800 stall 4.56 posi msd 6a box,distributor#8460 blaster 2 coil msd 8.8 black wires autometer gauges oil,water temp,fuel with isolator autometer tach with shift light worked 750 holley dp,holley regulator & holley blue series fuel pump fram canister fuel filter rci 16 gallon fuel cell with sending unit 1/2 alum line with #8 braided lones,earl's & aeroquipe edelbrock old style torker intake block paralell decked & line bore .30 over manley 10.5:1 flat top pistons,steel crank.pink rods assembly balanced to 8000 rpms canton 7 qt deep oil pan moroso high volume oil pump reed hydraulic camshaft special grind rhoads high intensity lifters crane roller rockers rare #441 casting heads off record holding stocker manley stainless valves 3 angle valve job,screw in studs cyclone headers s/s locking bolts sfi certified fly wheel ati tree master 10 inch 3800 stall fresh turbo 350 with turbo action cheetah series manual valve body new drive shaft incl yoke tube & u joint 67 chevelle wagon 10 bolt 8.2 ring gear 4.56 new carrier and axle bearings all spring and clutches long wheel studs center line drag 15x8.5 m/t l 60 t bone tires and 15x3 m/t front runners along with hurst pro matic 2 shifter mid 12's also i went with umi proformance rear end kit to center up the rear end all in my 83 cutlass.this is my set up.
You didn't post any info that matters to your electrical setup. Do you have power locks, windows, upgraded headlights, are you running relays for the fan and fuel pump? What makes you think you need a higher output alternator, what is on there now? From what I see listed there is no reason to upgrade to a cs style high output alternator. Put a 94-105 amp 12si one on there and run relays for your headlights, electric fans, and electric fuel pump. I feel like I'm advertising for mad electrical here because i just wired up my whole car with it but there is some good info on his site.(and we are in the wiring section of the site) Check it out.
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml
do it right and do it once.
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml
do it right and do it once.
Evil_Regal said:
Relays are smart for protection of the wiring, but they don't change the total current draw. Power locks, windows, seats, etc only matter if you are running them all at the same time. That's unlikely.
The reality is that your current alternator is probably more than adequate. You need to go back and check all your connections and ground points. Any looseness or corrosion will increase resistance and cause dimming. Also be sure the belt is properly tensioned. I don't know what your electric fuel pump draws, but everything else together will not exceed the capacity of the stock alternator.
Judging by his post noting 63a alternator he could be killing it with the electric fan. I know Mark viii and other elec. fans can draw ridiculous amounts of power and require a large alternator. In any case he complained of dimming headlights, something easily remedied by adding relays by rerouting the power directly to the accessory instead of having it go thru the dash area, just sayin'. Certainly your suggestion is also valid and should be checked.
I'm running a Holley blue fuel pump which draws only 3 amps and a 16 inch electric fan which i have no clue how many amps it's drawing,but even with the fan off and running at night the lights go dim.i went through and checked all the grounds and even added a number 6 wires as a ground to the motor from the frame.for a total of three grounds two grounds from the motor to frame and one ground from the battery to the frame.I'm running a deep pulley on my alternator because the previous owners said it threw belts off.could a smaller pulley spin faster to give the voltage that i need at idle?
If it is just a low RPM issue, it sounds to me like your alternator isn't energizing correctly. Have you pulled it apart and inspected the brushes? A stuck or worn brush could give you these symptoms.
- Status
Similar threads
