confused??????

[pontiacgp]

piston domes were still hitting the heads after clearancing them which let the head gasket move around

what?...that is impossible...

 

[psgp]

some good news ran 14.50s last nite. bad news have a head gasket cracked head just smoking at idle was fine going down track. lost about half of water in radiator per run. will let u guys know what i find out is wrong.

Why would you keep running your car when you know there is a problem? You could have turned it into junk or worse yet jeopardize the track. Depending on how bad you were hitting the heads, I would I would have a hard time trusting that rotating asm. w/o having it checked. Good luck

I thought the same thing, when I read that he was aware that the pistons were hitting the heads, seems ignorant to me on more than one level..................minus the fact that (money is involved with ALL that's needed to get the engine back to GOOD) did you just win the lottery?

only made 1 run at that time no water in oil or cylinders or wouldve loaded it back up we thought maybe head was cracked in an exhaust port

 

[psgp]

took head to be checked for cracks warped and it was good gonna take all apart and have rest checked out

 

[psgp]

all but rings are good replacing them just to be safe found out that we were 11 to 1 comp need to get it closer to 10 to 1 so what thickness of head gasket should we go with to help this cant afford race gas or would be no issue thanks for info

 

[bygddy]

all but rings are good replacing them just to be safe found out that we were 11 to 1 comp need to get it closer to 10 to 1 so what thickness of head gasket should we go with to help this cant afford race gas or would be no issue thanks for info

Thicker head gaskets won't help, you may get slightly lower compression but it will come with greater quench. This will make you more prone to detonation then the higher compression.
If you cant afford race gas, what about E85?
The other option is pulling the motor down and refreshing it with the right parts. A Summit racing rebuild kit with flat tops is a couple hundred bucks, the kit includes a KB flat top with a proper 1.560 pin height. Now we can get you closer to a more manageable compression ratio.
The part number will change depending on bore and bearing under size required but example
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... /overview/
What you want is your gasket thickness to be your quench, 0.040 being ideal.
There are a multitude of budget cams available as well once we have your actual compression ratio sorted out.
If you own a dye grinder you can do some home porting on the heads as well and really wake them up. Lots of guys b*tch and moan about home porters fkng up heads, but its real unlikely your going to make them worse if you take your time and do some reading about porting and port velocity. I started on 416 casting 305 heads and have now done several sets for myself and friends with amazing results. If I can figure it out, anyone can.
My best advice here is to slow down, pick up a couple books by David Vizard and read, make your son read them as well. You will both save aggravation, go faster, and save money in the end. That's what its all about to me.

 

[psgp]

all but rings are good replacing them just to be safe found out that we were 11 to 1 comp need to get it closer to 10 to 1 so what thickness of head gasket should we go with to help this cant afford race gas or would be no issue thanks for info

Thicker head gaskets won't help, you may get slightly lower compression but it will come with greater quench. This will make you more prone to detonation then the higher compression.
If you cant afford race gas, what about E85?
The other option is pulling the motor down and refreshing it with the right parts. A Summit racing rebuild kit with flat tops is a couple hundred bucks, the kit includes a KB flat top with a proper 1.560 pin height. Now we can get you closer to a more manageable compression ratio.
The part number will change depending on bore and bearing under size required but example
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... /overview/
What you want is your gasket thickness to be your quench, 0.040 being ideal.
There are a multitude of budget cams available as well once we have your actual compression ratio sorted out.
If you own a dye grinder you can do some home porting on the heads as well and really wake them up. Lots of guys b*tch and moan about home porters fkng up heads, but its real unlikely your going to make them worse if you take your time and do some reading about porting and port velocity. I started on 416 casting 305 heads and have now done several sets for myself and friends with amazing results. If I can figure it out, anyone can.
My best advice here is to slow down, pick up a couple books by David Vizard and read, make your son read them as well. You will both save aggravation, go faster, and save money in the end. That's what its all about to me.

this is an 89 motor sux we are so broke from this motor to change it now so gotta make it work somehow thanks for the info

 

[psgp]

all but rings are good replacing them just to be safe found out that we were 11 to 1 comp need to get it closer to 10 to 1 so what thickness of head gasket should we go with to help this cant afford race gas or would be no issue thanks for info

Thicker head gaskets won't help, you may get slightly lower compression but it will come with greater quench. This will make you more prone to detonation then the higher compression.
If you cant afford race gas, what about E85?
The other option is pulling the motor down and refreshing it with the right parts. A Summit racing rebuild kit with flat tops is a couple hundred bucks, the kit includes a KB flat top with a proper 1.560 pin height. Now we can get you closer to a more manageable compression ratio.
The part number will change depending on bore and bearing under size required but example
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... /overview/
What you want is your gasket thickness to be your quench, 0.040 being ideal.
There are a multitude of budget cams available as well once we have your actual compression ratio sorted out.
If you own a dye grinder you can do some home porting on the heads as well and really wake them up. Lots of guys b*tch and moan about home porters fkng up heads, but its real unlikely your going to make them worse if you take your time and do some reading about porting and port velocity. I started on 416 casting 305 heads and have now done several sets for myself and friends with amazing results. If I can figure it out, anyone can.
My best advice here is to slow down, pick up a couple books by David Vizard and read, make your son read them as well. You will both save aggravation, go faster, and save money in the end. That's what its all about to me.

this is an 89 motor sux we are so broke from this motor to change it now so gotta make it work somehow thanks for the info

and e85 what octane is that and will the carb we have now work? heard about it thats all dont know how far from if not close to get it thanks

 

[bygddy]

To go E85 your looking at 30% more volume required, assuming your pump and lines are capable, your looking at roughly 7jet sizes up from where you would be on straight gas.
Octane is somewhere around 105 IIRC
Here is a link to find it in your area.
http://www.ethanolretailer.com/flex-fue ... on-finder/
This would at least allow you to keep your compression "as is" and focus your limited budget elsewhere.

 

[psgp]

To go E85 your looking at 30% more volume required, assuming your pump and lines are capable, your looking at roughly 7jet sizes up from where you would be on straight gas.
Octane is somewhere around 105 IIRC
Here is a link to find it in your area.
http://www.ethanolretailer.com/flex-fue ... on-finder/
This would at least allow you to keep your compression "as is" and focus your limited budget elsewhere.

thanks bygddy have 1 station about 18 miles away and all stock lines and manual pump on motor u think that will work or would we need to update that? this is a true street class car shouldve done my homework before putting together cause we are now screwed thanks again for the input

 

[bygddy]

The stock 3/8 line works out to "roughly" 6AN, more then enough at your power level, a "decent" mechanical 110pump will be more then sufficient.
Making the switch at your level is a simple one and well worth it given your not alble to rebuild at this time.
There's lots of misinformation out there about the corrosive properties of E85 and its BS
Jet up 6-7 sizes, if this is a strip only car, lock your timing at 38*(E85 only) and go have fun.