confused??????

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bygddy said:
Get a new machine shop then, because unless they cc'd them and the chambers were opened up a ton they aernt 76cc heads, if the motor was put together under the advice of a machine shop, its time to find someone new, or pick up Vizards books and do it yourself.
Good luck.
Dave
will try to post pic of heads
 

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gpracer4790 said:
bygddy said:
Get a new machine shop then, because unless they cc'd them and the chambers were opened up a ton they aernt 76cc heads, if the motor was put together under the advice of a machine shop, its time to find someone new, or pick up Vizards books and do it yourself.
Good luck.
Dave
will try to post pic of heads

Not only are those 76cc chamber heads, they are the weak material heads that are prone to cracks. They were GM's attempt to lighten weights and use less material. Not a good racing head.
 

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the 083 heads are going to hold you back... they are STOCK 350 tpi heads on 80's cars... good for raising compression but not much more... 64cc chambers... keep in mind they are STOCK heads... dont expect alot out of them without putting ALOT of $$$ into them... and they have a funky bolt pattern where the two center intake bolts are "stood up", so your intake options are limited... thats just info i found out by googling 083 heads... if i was you, i would ditch the heads, and get a set of vortec heads, a performer rpm intake, and a 750 carb and change out that CAM... I would imagine if you do all that you should be breaking into the 12's...
 
BPTTONE420012 said:
the 083 heads are going to hold you back... they are STOCK 350 tpi heads on 80's cars... good for raising compression but not much more... 64cc chambers... keep in mind they are STOCK heads... dont expect alot out of them without putting ALOT of $$$ into them... and they have a funky bolt pattern where the two center intake bolts are "stood up", so your intake options are limited... thats just info i found out by googling 083 heads... if i was you, i would ditch the heads, and get a set of vortec heads, a performer rpm intake, and a 750 carb and change out that CAM... I would imagine if you do all that you should be breaking into the 12's...

X2. The cam, intake, and the heads are holding you back. With those changes and keeping your heads you may see a low 14 e/t. but that's about it. On a 350 sbc the heads make that much of a difference.
To get a Gbody to the 13s and lower with a 350, you have set that motor up to work hard.(High revving, Nos, or boost) A 383 or bigger won't have to work that hard to push a Gbody. A good example I've seen of a G body 350 sbc that runs 11s all day, had 4:10s in the rear, a TH 350 with a 3500 stall and transbrake, the motor had Dart heads with single plane intake, a 750 dp Holley, and he shifted at 7200 rpm. Which tells you the cam was not street friendly. Took this guy 3 years to get that car to do that.

Now I know we may be talking way out of your territory but, the ideas are sound. Research what you want to do, then gather the parts to do it right.
T
 
i am running a 350 sbc, full roller... eagle rotating assembly, lt4 hot cam, edelbrock etec200 heads, magnum chromoly push rods, 1.6 roller rockers, vette springs, performer rpm intake, and i have tried a q-jet, holley 750 dp, and my buddies street demon 750, car ran the best with the street demon... 200-4R trans and 373 rear... and i would be amazed if i am even knocking on 13's door... pretty sure she can run in the 14's all day, but at the ebd of the day, its a SBC 350 towing a heavey *ss gbody... without nos or turbos, she aint going much faster... sure there is probably a ton more i could do, and spend ridiculous money doing it, but i am fine with 14's... for now...
 
BPTTONE420012 said:
i am running a 350 sbc, full roller... eagle rotating assembly, lt4 hot cam, edelbrock etec200 heads, magnum chromoly push rods, 1.6 roller rockers, vette springs, performer rpm intake, and i have tried a q-jet, holley 750 dp, and my buddies street demon 750, car ran the best with the street demon... 200-4R trans and 373 rear... and i would be amazed if i am even knocking on 13's door... pretty sure she can run in the 14's all day, but at the ebd of the day, its a SBC 350 towing a heavey *ss gbody... without nos or turbos, she aint going much faster... sure there is probably a ton more i could do, and spend ridiculous money doing it, but i am fine with 14's... for now...[/quote}

Hey BPTTONE, from what I see, the LT4 Hot Cam is the only thing in your set up that stands out as the wrong part. Specifically are you using hydraulic rollers or solid? That cam needs a 11:1 or better to get real power but, the cam is optimized only for a FI set up.
The LT4 hot cam is ground to be drivable under the control of the OBD2 system. Without FI, It's hurting you bad. You should be in to the mid to low 13s if the cam was right. If you have Hydraulic lifters change to solid. It would change the cam's profile slightly higher and it would pull up to about 7000 and better.
T
 
i had picked up the block, oil pump, rotating assembly, flat top pistons, cam, heads, harmonic balancer, timing gear, etc, for $1200... was in a rush to get it all together and get my daily driver back on the road, didnt want to have to wait to order a new cam... now that i have driven it, i wish i waited and found a better cam...
 
i know top end could be better but funds make u work with what u have and was going over the car sunday did find front brake calipers were working but the slides were froze and my kid put new studs in last yr and tightened down rotors real tight all fixed now dont know how much if any this was against us will find out this weekend thanks for the input hope over winter can get a better combo for the motor
 
I'm going to throw my combo at you - it's not a high dollar set-up. I've got a stock L-82 I got in a swap meet for $100 and threw a Northern Auto re-ring kit in it, a good set of chevy iron 2.02 heads Comps 306S flat tappet cam w/ a Vic Jr and a 750. A T-400 w/4000 stall through a 4.30 rear. It runs 11.50's on gas and 11.20's alcohol
 

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lilbowtie said:
I'm going to throw my combo at you - it's not a high dollar set-up. I've got a stock L-82 I got in a swap meet for $100 and threw a Northern Auto re-ring kit in it, a good set of chevy iron 2.02 heads Comps 306S flat tappet cam w/ a Vic Jr and a 750. A T-400 w/4000 stall through a 4.30 rear. It runs 11.50's on gas and 11.20's alcohol

That's what i was getting at. A 350 can overcome the torque disadvantage with gears, stall, and high revs. But street friendly it isn't.

gpracer4790 said:
i know top end could be better but funds make u work with what u have and was going over the car sunday did find front brake calipers were working but the slides were froze and my kid put new studs in last yr and tightened down rotors real tight all fixed now dont know how much if any this was against us will find out this weekend thanks for the input hope over winter can get a better combo for the motor

I hear ya. I had to gather to get to the point I'm at. And I'm still gathering.

BPTTONE420012 said:
i had picked up the block, oil pump, rotating assembly, flat top pistons, cam, heads, harmonic balancer, timing gear, etc, for $1200... was in a rush to get it all together and get my daily driver back on the road, didnt want to have to wait to order a new cam... now that i have driven it, i wish i waited and found a better cam...

That was a cool find. Well I just thought I'd let you know how it could be better. Time to save up. :mrgreen:
T
 
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