COOLING-Radiators, fans, pulleys, etc.

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500/600

Royal Smart Person
Nov 17, 2018
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I've been fighting the temperature in the Malibu both driving and idling...…….Mostly idling. New Champion 3 core, 16 pound cap, two 12" electric fans, and a FlexOlite 418 flex fan. Usually when driving it would settle in at around 190F. When getting on it hard it would go up to about 195-200F and then return to normal. When idling in the driveway it would move up to 220F+ after a few minutes. A little driving and it would come back down.

I did a couple of things, but only one thing at a time.
The engine is a 519" Cadillac. These engines are known for running hot. The thermostat is an old Stant 332-180 high flow. The water pump is an enclosed back $35 remanufactured unit. There is a very large GVW trans cooler attached to the front of the radiator that measures 12" x 10-1/2" at the fins.

First I replaced my Champion 3 core aluminum radiator with an Engineered Cooling Products 2 core aluminum radiator. The Champion has three 5/8" rows and the ECP has two 1" cores and larger tanks. Inlet and outlet diameters are the same. Pulley remained the stock 6-1/2". I pulled the dual 12" electric fans off and only ran the FlexOlite 418 plastic flex fan. The temperature driving at about 55mph settled in around 185-187F. When a power run was made the temp would go to about 195F and slowly return to 185F after about 1/2 mile of normal 55mph driving. Pull in the driveway and let it idle and within two minutes it is well past 200F. After about five minute it's at 210F. That's better than the Champion radiator and no electric fans. Decent improvement. Outside temperature 42F.

Second I pulled the stock 6-1/2" pulley off and put on the L78/ZL1 5-7/8" pulley with no other changes. The temperature driving at about 55mph settled in around 175-177F. When a power run was made there was no change at all, still 175F. At no point whatsoever did the gauge go past 182F and that was when the thermostat first opened. Several power runs and slower back road driving yielded the same results. Pull in the driveway and let it idle and after at least five minutes it never got past 188F. I revved it up to 1500rpm and it came back down to 182F quickly and I shut it off. Very nice results. Outside temperature 45F.

So my water pump and flex fan are somewhat faster than before and I believe that it would have made a big difference with the Champion radiator. I believe that the thermostat is actually doing it's job now instead of just staying wide open all the time. I still have electric fans to try but I just don't know if I want to mess with it as I'm pretty happy as is. With the hood closed, I can feel the cool air rushing with my hand in front of the grille and hot air being forced out as I hold my hand behind the cowl induction hood openings. The cheap plastic fan moves a lot of air.

Anybody having cooling issues would be advised by me to try overdriving the water pump pulley a bit instead of upsizing the radiator. I don't know how much HP it costs, or how much HP the temperature reduction my gain.
 
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Streetbu

Know it all, that doesn't
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May 22, 2011
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I had a very similar issue on my SBC. Chased it for years. Everything I did helped, but nothing fixed the issue. One of my original modifications was a nice shiny set of aluminum pulleys. Ended up they were underdriving the water pump and I had too little flow at idle causing my issues. Kicked myself for that.
 
Oct 14, 2008
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Pulley ratio makes a big difference as does air direction. I found the G body Champion 3 core too small for my 8 to 1 403. Idle temps were fine 185, cruising was 185 to 205 and towing 230+ with the large A/C crank pulley. The tiny underdrive crank pulley 20 degrees higher. The The old model open impeller with a crappy plate riveted on may have actually been worse than an open impeller pump.
20200404_082825.jpg
 

Clone TIE Pilot

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Aug 14, 2011
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Aluminum 3 row rariators are gimmicks. With aluminum radiators you want no more than 2 rows. The gaps between the rows are restrictions to airflow and aluninum's big advantage is that they can be built with larger tubes, less tube gaps, and higher airflow.
 
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500/600

Royal Smart Person
Nov 17, 2018
1,167
2,638
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West Virginia
Aluminum 3 row rariators are gimmicks. With aluminum radiators you want no more than 2 rows. The gaps between the rows are restrictions to airflow and aluninum's big advantage is that they can be built with larger tubes, less tube gaps, and higher airflow.

You just quoted ECP’s sales pitch.
 
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Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
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You just quoted ECP’s sales pitch.

Yeah I am lazy. Main thing is you can't judge aluminum radiators by brass radiator metrics. The construction between the two is very different like ECP says. The HD radiator in my CVPI is just a single row and its built to chase down faster cars through endurance rather than speed as most normal cars will overheat and fail in a chase, even some sport models.

210 degrees is normal engine temp and increases engine life. You need to get to 180 just to start boiling moisture out of the engine. This reduces sludge buildup in the crankcase.
 
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500/600

Royal Smart Person
Nov 17, 2018
1,167
2,638
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West Virginia
Maybe. At this point I know what the radiator did and what the pulley did. The combination worked out good. I believe the pulley and the extra flow did more and would have helped with the Champion radiator. As far as the radiator goes I’d definitely buy the ECP over the Champion based on better looks, quality, and fit.
 
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Texas82GP

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DROLDS84

Master Mechanic
Feb 15, 2015
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Ditch the flex fan they just make noise.
BOP's like at least a 5 blade clutch fan.
Somehow Chebby"s seem to do well with them though.
 
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