MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Anti-party pullies for alternators are a thing now:

 
Last edited:
Anti-party pullies for alternators are a thing now:

Pretty interesting. My truck regularly sees 6k+ RPM. I wonder what the corresponding alternator RPM is? 🤔 I'll have to do some measuring. I do have an underdrive crank pulley though. That would have been another way for him to address the issue but it is a lot more A$$ ache to change, obviously. I'm on my third alternator that shows some "pulsing" of the lights. I've attributed this to the somewhat inconsistent idle speed associated with the cam, but maybe not.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rktpwrd
Anti-party pullies for alternators are a thing now:

There is a much easier fix...

Install and Olds motor. Itll never happen again, and you'll be safer not being able to go 130mph in the 1/8. Plus all the torques in the midranges.
 
I wouldn't worry unless you're consistently spinning faster than a LS7 Z06 redline

Unless there's something special with those?
 
I wouldn't worry unless you're consistently spinning faster than a LS7 Z06 redline

I frequently do.

I believe there are different designs among GM alternators. The one on my TBSS is clutched.
 
Ma
Now what? That's interesting knowledge there, does it clutch out at higher RPM's? My fear with all the extra electronics we add is running out of juice, especially at high RPM.

I believe it is designed to freewheel off throttle. It's referred to as an overrun/decoupling pulley. Same idea as the pulley on my Hellcat's supercharger. Keeps the rotors from going out of time after a power pull and slamming the throttle shut. It is a passive design.

Different than this.
mad max GIF


But, protects under harsh conditions.

Here's some more information:
 
The weather was back above freezing and sunny. So the door was opened and we got ready to party.

Always a sketchy process getting it up on the wheel cribs.

IMG_20211211_172353_467.jpg


But once it is up, it is solid. The circulation space is a welcome change... even if my spoiled @ss wants the lift installed.

Screenshot_20211211-193300.png


Now I need to fix a couple of rotted body mounts, a couple of soft spots in the rear seat pan, and do some rust repair to the lower front and rear quarters. Then as time allows I will get the car ready for safety and maybe start the actual bodywork.
 
The weather was back above freezing and sunny. So the door was opened and we got ready to party.

Always a sketchy process getting it up on the wheel cribs.

View attachment 188363

But once it is up, it is solid. The circulation space is a welcome change... even if my spoiled @ss wants the lift installed.

View attachment 188364

Now I need to fix a couple of rotted body mounts, a couple of soft spots in the rear seat pan, and do some rust repair to the lower front and rear quarters. Then as time allows I will get the car ready for safety and maybe start the actual bodywork.
I thought about building the cribbing to be able securing them to a set of wheel dollies. Once you get it set-up on them, then you can roll it around for shop maneuverability (shove it one way or the other to allow additional work space on the side you're focusing on).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor