MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)

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I'm easily confused obviously about some of these new fangled electronics - I'm still using a Texas Instruments calculator and play Frogger in my spare time, so take it easy on me and my memory.

What you're describing is runaway boost, or it's responding too slow to the command for boost cut. I would hate to see you not be in good standing with some of 'newish' neighbors and possible constituents, but you need some high gear street hits where you can let it eat for 4-6 seconds to see where it settles out. Perhaps a lighter WG spring to start with.

Kidding aside, I don't know what the deal is with the lean spikes with a factory ECM when running through 1st-3rd - I trust you that it's an issue. But the WOT in 1:1 rpm to tailshaft ratio should give you time to see what's cookin'. And you mentioned you were at 6 degrees at 18psi - that's too conservative (heat generating) IMO, but gas is so unforgiving and has such a smaller tuning window than most everything else, even with the meth, that it puts you in a small window from not enough to too much timing. I know C16 is expensive, but it will help you dial this in without concern of breaking sheetz - 5 gallons on top of 5 gallons of gas is what it would take to make your tuning window about 10-15 degrees rather 5-7. The boost and IAT's will be very close to the same with some mixed in.

Anyway...good luck - Jim
 
I for one, can't wait to see how this pans out.

Continue with the suicide machine build Mike. F'N send it!!!
pulp fiction zed GIF
 
I'm easily confused obviously about some of these new fangled electronics - I'm still using a Texas Instruments calculator and play Frogger in my spare time, so take it easy on me and my memory.

What you're describing is runaway boost, or it's responding too slow to the command for boost cut. I would hate to see you not be in good standing with some of 'newish' neighbors and possible constituents, but you need some high gear street hits where you can let it eat for 4-6 seconds to see where it settles out. Perhaps a lighter WG spring to start with.

Kidding aside, I don't know what the deal is with the lean spikes with a factory ECM when running through 1st-3rd - I trust you that it's an issue. But the WOT in 1:1 rpm to tailshaft ratio should give you time to see what's cookin'. And you mentioned you were at 6 degrees at 18psi - that's too conservative (heat generating) IMO, but gas is so unforgiving and has such a smaller tuning window than most everything else, even with the meth, that it puts you in a small window from not enough to too much timing. I know C16 is expensive, but it will help you dial this in without concern of breaking sheetz - 5 gallons on top of 5 gallons of gas is what it would take to make your tuning window about 10-15 degrees rather 5-7. The boost and IAT's will be very close to the same with some mixed in.

Anyway...good luck - Jim

But... but... but... I had the small spring in there. And then I went small spring plus big spring. Then boom. Probably just go with the medium spring this next time out.

It definitely didn't have any spooling issues. Or more specifically it had a desirable amount of lag - but the spike, which wasn't creep, was definitely not appreciated.

The timing should have been closer to 10* at the time of the failure except it had a few degrees removed for knock and a few more for IAT. It was just trying to protect itself relative to the information I programmed it with. Why it knocked (possibly, and likely false knock) I am not certain. And did I need it to pull 2.5* of timing at 151*F IAT? Not totally convinced.

I am with you that running a high-quality base fuel would be an appropriate approach. It would also allow me create a properly modelled VE table relative to the characteristics of the engine combination. If I could get it on a steady diet of E60 I would go that route.
 
I'm extremely curious about the knock. I would like to run knock sensors as all of my junk is capable. My son's motor with link bar lifters and alot of lift I tried - no go. It showed knock at anything over 5000 or 5500 rpm's. But that thing sounds like a sewing machine. But my with my mild cam (SS2) in a 5.3, I'd like to try it if I had the time to make another 20 passes just to check it out.

Did you only show knock before it went boom?
 
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