MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)

[melloelky]

Ugh, I guess I am going to tick the Mrs off some more with another Amazon order for some 40, 80, and 120 grit paper.
The longest panel I am going to put any effort into is the roof, and as melloelky pointed out it is crowned so I guess I am good to go with a measly 11 inches.

I'm sure it won't the first or last time😉
i wanted that looong block to work out but it was too rigid to meet the crowned roof line.stick with the angled strokes vs the straight line ones when possible.think crosshatching almost in a cylinder.almost.

 

[motorheadmike]

I'm sure it won't the first or last time😉
i wanted that looong block to work out but it was too rigid to meet the crowned roof line.stick with the angled strokes vs the straight line ones when possible.think crosshatching almost in a cylinder.almost.

Here's the stuff I was reading earlier today:

https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/how-to-correctly-do-auto-sanding-on-bodywork-repairs/

Love me some Kevin Tetz (he makes me believe I can do anything):
https://garage.eastwood.com/eastwood-chatter/block-sanding/

 

[Northernregal]

This is what I did.

BUILD THREAD - The Mullet Maurader, The Epic of the LS swapped Buick

There is a guy who builds G body 9" rears in Melfort, SK. Contact Cutlassefi on this site about your Holley EFI. He is an aftermarket EFI tech and a parts guy/ builder for us Olds V8 guys. His personal ride is an Olds Cutlass Convertible that had the Accel sequential EFI on an Olds 350, I...

gbodyforum.com

 

[Rktpwrd]

Chris is spot on with his advice Mike. Skip buying the long blocks if you don’t need them, put that $$$ into the needed grits of sandpaper. “X” shaped motions when you’re block sanding, be it filler or primer, and move around consistently.

In my experience, “weld through” primer is anything but. It’s high in zinc which aids in corrosion resistance, so it’s important to use between overlapping panels, but it actually doesn’t “weld through” worth a sh*t. Whenever I gotta use that stuff, or really ANY product between panels, I always try and figure out where I’m gonna be welding ahead of time. Then I simply mask off these areas. It makes weld contamination a non-issue unless you burn a bigger hole than you planned, and get into the primer. Then you’re back to square one anyways.
So yeah. Don’t do that.


When I repaired the bottom of the driver’s door, I had to spot weld the hemmed flange on the inside to the main structure. A simple piece of masking tape applied before I sprayed epoxy where it was gonna be spot welded, eliminated the possibility of weld contamination:

It’s looking good so far, keep fighting the good fight. I know for a fact myself and a couple others are taking notes on how you’re reinforcing the seam area.
😏

 

[motorheadmike]

Chris is spot on with his advice Mike. Skip buying the long blocks if you don’t need them, put that $$$ into the needed grits of sandpaper. “X” shaped motions when you’re block sanding, be it filler or primer, and move around consistently.

In my experience, “weld through” primer is anything but. It’s high in zinc which aids in corrosion resistance, so it’s important to use between overlapping panels, but it actually doesn’t “weld through” worth a sh*t. Whenever I gotta use that stuff, or really ANY product between panels, I always try and figure out where I’m gonna be welding ahead of time. Then I simply mask off these areas. It makes weld contamination a non-issue unless you burn a bigger hole than you planned, and get into the primer. Then you’re back to square one anyways.
So yeah. Don’t do that.


When I repaired the bottom of the driver’s door, I had to spot weld the hemmed flange on the inside to the main structure. A simple piece of masking tape applied before I sprayed epoxy where it was gonna be spot welded, eliminated the possibility of weld contamination:

View attachment 134735

It’s looking good so far, keep fighting the good fight. I know for a fact myself and a couple others are taking notes on how you’re reinforcing the seam area.
😏

Thanks, and good news is I have a whole other side to do differently... more bettererer?

Is it worth going over the welds and filling in all the little gaps or just filler over it? I don't mind the work if it is justified.

 

[Rktpwrd]

Thanks, and good news is I have a whole other side to do differently... more bettererer?

Is it worth going over the welds and filling in all the little gaps or just filler over it? I don't mind the work if it is justified.

You’re asking the king of “anal retentive”???
Sorry I’m not gonna be able to help you with that, I plead the fifth!!
🤣🤣🤣

Honestly, as long as there’s no glaringly huge gaps and the area is super solid, I don’t think you have too much to worry about. Just cave and pave man!

And yeah, that’s the thing about almost everything on cars: there’s always “another side” to do. But good news is, the first side always takes the longest; because ya gotta figure it out as you go first. The other side will go much better and quicker, I promise.

 

[motorheadmike]

This is what I did.

BUILD THREAD - The Mullet Maurader, The Epic of the LS swapped Buick

There is a guy who builds G body 9" rears in Melfort, SK. Contact Cutlassefi on this site about your Holley EFI. He is an aftermarket EFI tech and a parts guy/ builder for us Olds V8 guys. His personal ride is an Olds Cutlass Convertible that had the Accel sequential EFI on an Olds 350, I...

gbodyforum.com

Thanks, tossed you a few likes because your welds look like my welds. Interesting that your car had a lot more lead tossed into the back of the C pillars... there is literally no consistency to the build methodology/standards in these cars.

You’re asking the king of “anal retentive”???
Sorry I’m not gonna be able to help you with that, I plead the fifth!!
🤣🤣🤣

Honestly, as long as there’s no glaringly huge gaps and the area is super solid, I don’t think you have too much to worry about. Just cave and pave man!

And yeah, that’s the thing about almost everything on cars: there’s always “another side” to do. But good news is, the first side always takes the longest; because ya gotta figure it out as you go first. The other side will go much better and quicker, I promise.

Take this as a compliment: But that's the problem- your skill set, standards, and dedication to task are tops. Which unfortunately leaves us casual observers second guessing ourselves about what is "good enough" to proceed on to the next stage.

I am looking at my work here and wondering if it is going to be more fruitful to fill the gaps with more weld and reduce the possible amount of time I may have to spend on bodywork to hide the sins or have an issue with potential problems after finishing. Or is it inconsequential and I am just making a mountain out of a molehill (f*cking mole people digging up my lawn)? These two areas (B and C pillars) are right in your line of sight so you don't want to get them wrong - if you catch my drift?

 

[motorheadmike]

Knocked out a few things before the kids got home. I made these fillers about .040" skinnier than the DS in hopes the welds sit a bit lower. I also ground down and reworked the C pillar seam as it was very proud compared to the DS - causing the panel to rock.

I also ordered up the 40, 80, and 120 grit papers, and some roloc sand paper discs. Another $200 committed to the cause.

 

[melloelky]

nice,onward and upward Mr.
i was looking at that long never used dura block in the top of my box today,I'm thinking about cutting it in half and making two "11-12" blocks out of it.i don't need one but if anyone's starting out doing bodywork and wants one let me know i'll send it your way.it's a good size to use.sorry about the hijack Mr.carry on

 

[fleming442]

Is .040 the width of the Sharpie in Canadia? I thought they were. 065....