MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)

[Rktpwrd]

This junk just showed up. In case you thought I was going to just and it with my butt. 3M 180, 220, 320 and 400 grit papers - good enough for the bathroom, good enough for my garage.

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Still deciding if I should get the 16 or 30 inch longboard...

In case you don’t already have any, you’ll also need 40, 80, and 120 grits. 180 isn’t aggressive enough to level filler. Start with 40 and work your way progressively finer. Stop at 180 for high build.

As for the long board decision, got any long panels to do? If not, don’t worry about either. If ya do, get and use the longest the panel will accommodate. Keep in mind anything longer than 12” will require “continuous roll” paper, and that stuff usually isn’t available in Stickit form for the 40 through 120 grits. You’ll need to go to hook and loop for that. The 180 and finer grits should be available in continuous roll Stickit form.

 

[Tony1968]

In case you don’t already have any, you’ll also need 40, 80, and 120 grits. 180 isn’t aggressive enough to level filler. Start with 40 and work your way progressively finer. Stop at 180 for high build.

As for the long board decision, got any long panels to do? If not, don’t worry about either. If ya do, get and use the longest the panel will accommodate. Keep in mind anything longer than 12” will require “continuous roll” paper, and that stuff usually isn’t available in Stickit form for the 40 through 120 grits. You’ll need to go to hook and loop for that. The 180 and finer grits should be available in continuous roll Stickit form.

Excellent information. Thank you D

 

[melloelky]

In case you don’t already have any, you’ll also need 40, 80, and 120 grits. 180 isn’t aggressive enough to level filler. Start with 40 and work your way progressively finer. Stop at 180 for high build.

As for the long board decision, got any long panels to do? If not, don’t worry about either. If ya do, get and use the longest the panel will accommodate. Keep in mind anything longer than 12” will require “continuous roll” paper, and that stuff usually isn’t available in Stickit form for the 40 through 120 grits. You’ll need to go to hook and loop for that. The 180 and finer grits should be available in continuous roll Stickit form.

I can't speak to the autobody supply situation in the further north but around here 80-100-180 and finer is available in continuous roll in the sticky form from Norton.i agree with Rkt, 180 will roll over filler and not level it like we'd like it too.i use the longer one that's included in your new set for almost all of my sanding everyday.sand in a 45 degree or X- Chris cross fashion it'll cover all the real estate you need.i bought that big Tommy Lee dura block to do my roof but my roof's not flat and the longer one wasn't better for a crowned surface like that..it's been unused in the top of my box for @ least ten years now.

 

[motorheadmike]

Oh man I hope I got this close to right... because taking it off is going to suck.

I started by stitch welding along some seams, adding a few spot welds, and closing up some gaps. Then ground it all down and shaped it, basically I had something to weld to or a slightly better structure.

Then I cut and formed some filler strips. I used two pieces on the C pillar to allow room for error. You can probably seem that the filler strips fold over into the window channel where it was previously stuffed with seam sealer and dumdum. This also (theoretically) aids structurally in resisting twist... at least that's my thinking. I shaped them with a point body hammer.

The magnet with the little metal sliver on it is my depth spacer to see the filler strips into the channel. Big D told me to keep it 1/16" below the surface... so I figured that was unprofessional enough. Next came the booger welds, I set my welder to it's lowest setting (to avoid warping stuff) and quenched them with compressed air. It was incredible how much contamination was still occuring in the welds despite everything being cleaned well and covered in weld-through primer. After than I put a fresh 80 grit flap disc on a grinder and tried to erase my shame. I grabbed the DA with an 80 grit pad and verified that it was all below the surface - seems to be.

Given that I am going to glass and fill this area I am not sure if I should need to chase every remaining gap along the filler strips? I'll leave it to public consultation on how to proceed.

The leading edge of the B pillar is too close to the factory "lead" filler - so I am just going to avoid it.

Lastly I am still contemplating WTF to do about these gaps at the back of the C pillars - it is filled with brazing rod and frankly in a giant PITA location. I might just yell at it until it changes it's attitude.

 

[fleming442]

Ain't bodywork fun?

Fun like ants in your pants. At least you dance with ants in your pants.

 

[melloelky]

even if you stop welding here,you've improved over what the general did in the first place,that sugar your experiencing from the weld can be from the weld through primer.it's just the nature of the product.more isn't always better.still good for you for taking the step in the first place.lots don't.
that's in a pita location but it was done o.g when there wasn't any glass in the way.

 

[melloelky]

Ain't bodywork fun?
Fun like ants in your pants. At least you dance with ants in your pants.

it is!!

 

[motorheadmike]

even if you stop welding here,you've improved over what the general did in the first place,that sugar your experiencing from the weld can be from the weld through primer.it's just the nature of the product.more isn't always better.still good for you for taking the step in the first place.lots don't.
that's in a pita location but it was done o.g when there wasn't any glass in the way.

The whole weld through primer thing has been pretty hit-or-miss with the quality of the welds. I will say that the second coat of weld through primer was probably unnecessary - but getting the OEM finish off seemed more prudent than risking it burning off. I know I could keep working this over and over until it is less sh*tty, but I have to remind myself about time and space - and I still have other things to do. Yeah, I've seen that from the factory these cars got "leaded" on the non-vinyl roof cars. Ideally I would pull the rear glass and do it properly, but let's not kid ourselves here.

Thanks for the input!

 

[melloelky]

The whole weld through primer thing has been pretty hit-or-miss with the quality of the welds. I will say that the second coat of weld through primer was probably unnecessary - but getting the OEM finish off seemed more prudent than risking it burning off. I know I could keep working this over and over until it is less sh*tty, but I have to remind myself about time and space - and I still have other things to do. Yeah, I've seen that from the factory these cars got "leaded" on the non-vinyl roof cars. Ideally I would pull the rear glass and do it properly, but let's not kid ourselves here.
Thanks for the input!

i can understand that.just make sure you get all that weld through off before any filler etc,it's not a good foundation for anything other than a small fire when welding.it comes off with thinner.

 

[motorheadmike]

In case you don’t already have any, you’ll also need 40, 80, and 120 grits. 180 isn’t aggressive enough to level filler. Start with 40 and work your way progressively finer. Stop at 180 for high build.

As for the long board decision, got any long panels to do? If not, don’t worry about either. If ya do, get and use the longest the panel will accommodate. Keep in mind anything longer than 12” will require “continuous roll” paper, and that stuff usually isn’t available in Stickit form for the 40 through 120 grits. You’ll need to go to hook and loop for that. The 180 and finer grits should be available in continuous roll Stickit form.

Ugh, I guess I am going to tick the Mrs off some more with another Amazon order for some 40, 80, and 120 grit paper.

The longest panel I am going to put any effort into is the roof, and as melloelky pointed out it is crowned so I guess I am good to go with a measely 11 inches.