MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)

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Finished up the primary wiring for the meth injection. Test switch and LEDs pending. Foil wrapped the reservoirs for sex appeal.

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And then decided I am going to make more changes. Needs more nozzles.

With the heat/humidity wave we are in the middle of I might be able to see how effective it is. Because chemical intercooling.
 
What are you using for pumps for your window washer injection system? I might have missed it.

I ran a window washer 'meth' kit on my l67 and carb turbo 3.8 but both were pre-boost so I just used a 01ish GM window washer pump and a nozzle off mcmaster triggered by a hobbs switch

I was thinking of putting a home made meth kit on my lc2 wagon and like your progressive relay idea to get away from the variable rate stuff, but I need a real pump, or at least a staged setup to deal with the pressure rise without getting crazy on variable rate pump controls.
 
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What are you using for pumps for your window washer injection system? I might have missed it.

I ran a window washer 'meth' kit on my l67 and carb turbo 3.8 but both were pre-boost so I just used a 01ish GM window washer pump and a nozzle off mcmaster triggered by a hobbs switch

I was thinking of putting a home made meth kit on my lc2 wagon and like your progressive relay idea to get away from the variable rate stuff, but I need a real pump, or at least a staged setup to deal with the pressure rise without getting crazy on variable rate pump controls.

Twin washer pumps that came with the universal, this is all pre-turbo so low pressure is fine. The flow rates are a few pages back.

If you go really far back I had some other ideas about using other injection methods that used boost pressure to compensate. Again, I just need time to experiment.
 
So with proof of concept complete I figured it was time to move on to stage 2. Moar nozzles! Because moar!

First thing I needed to do was devise a way to hold the nozzles in the intake pipe while at the same time prevented the tips from falling off and into the turbo. After testing a few different lengths of tube it was determined that 1/2" gave the right spray pattern and material height to support a nozzle.

After that was solved I got to work producing more bungs. I figured out that the best way to support an aluminum tube for cutting in a vice was to put a steel rod through it. It minimized the crush.

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The reason for cutting threads on the tube was to thread it into the pipe vs say... Drilling a hole and JB welding it in and praying.

Here you can see how I pinched the ends to keep things from falling through.
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There is an o-ring around the nozzle to seal it inside the bung.

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Five nozzles later...

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Why five? I dunno. It seems that (at least in my head) I can stage pump 1 and 2 with 2 and 3 nozzles, respectively. Pump 1 will see the most frequent use in mid-load situations and be more likely to drain it's reservoir sooner - IATs and fuel demands are lower. And Pump 2 serves the higher load needs and will demand more fuel/cooling at that time.

For right now the bungs are held in place with green Loctite. I may move to nuts if I suspect they will loosen.
 
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Holy smokes man! That intake tube looks wild with all the bungs in it! Shouldn't have to worry about cooling the charge temps!!!!!

That reminds me. I still need to put an IAT into the intake manifold.
 
Is the reason for multiple nozzles an attempt to optimize spray pattern and distribution?

Sort of. The nozzle that was in there before pissed two steady streams. Not good for emulsification... especially into a spinning compressor wheel as it is very heavy. These nozzles atomize far better (40 microns, IIRC) and will carry less mass per droplet, or at least better distributed mass, into the inducer.

Once it is in the compressor housing it is all going to get heated up, pull temps from the compressed air, and discharged as vapour into the intake manifold. I cannot say how effective, nor how much thermal transfer will occur after but it shouldn't be too bad.
 
So the new nozzles must not flow as much hence the need for more than one? Is there ever a concern about the meth getting past bearing seals? I kinda wonder about spraying meth through the twin screws on my truck myself. I could wire a low meth switch to the NOS retard so it pulls timing when you run out of juice. You're getting pretty fancy here, you got anything like that up your sleeve or was that pages ago?
 
So the new nozzles must not flow as much hence the need for more than one? Is there ever a concern about the meth getting past bearing seals? I kinda wonder about spraying meth through the twin screws on my truck myself. I could wire a low meth switch to the NOS retard so it pulls timing when you run out of juice. You're getting pretty fancy here, you got anything like that up your sleeve or was that pages ago?

Correct, much less. I got bored trying to flow rate them individually. Once I get this together I can test seeing what the flow rate is in the assembly as a whole.

There is very little risk (especially with occasional use) to seals or mechanical parts. Some people like to think that methanol injection erodes aluminum which may be true if it is left directly on the metal for an indefinite period of time, but not if sprayed. Lots of ways to control timing and safety (float switch) if needed - but the consumption rate shouldn't be so high that you fail to check the tank (daily? per fuel up? whatever?) before driving it. I am not a hands off owner/operator so that stuff doesn't effect me.

I do have some domed LEDs coming from Mouser to use as activation lights - but all that tells me is the that the circuit is functioning.
 
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