CURRENT 6.0/4l80E swap parts = $$$$

[FastCraig]

I am planning, starting next spring, on swapping my 355/TH350 for a 6.0/4L80E and have been researching what my cost would be. I already have the donor vehicle and the engine and trans both run very good with 80K on them. With a worst case scenario where the engine and trans would need a complete rebuild this is what I came up with. These are retail prices on new parts. However, I don't anticipate the price to fluctuate more than a grand either direction. This price list also doesn't include any labor or assembly costs. I didn't go with any Ebay Chinese parts either.

Hooker full length Blackheart ceramic header swap kit. Now $1473.88...…..Was $1350.99.
07 4L80 trans, rebuilt $1000.00
PATC Power Raptor 2800 stall converter. $465.00.
Summit
Level 1 SUM-8714 Stage 4 Vortec Truck Swap Cam and Beehive spring kit: 226/230 112 +4, .545/.545 $393.17
TCI shifter cable. $69.00
Trick Flow VVT delete kit $209.99
TOTAL. $3411.04

Machine shop head work, cleaned, shaved valves, mild porting, milled heads, drilled 5 broken studs, ARP bolts, gaskets = $700
New 16" electric fan, 28 row 10AN trans cooler -w- 7" fan, $125
Lingenfelter Conversion box...……….$274
Wideband 02 UEGO kit.....$160
92MM throttle body with sensors...…$75 (temporary, upgrade manifold later)
Set of Rally wheels, 15x10 & 15x8 with Gunmetal acorn locking lugnuts...…..$350
Rear control arms, UMI & UPR...….$350
Rear shocks Gabriel ……….$85
Radiator cover for electric fan...…..$59
Air filter, oval...………$40
One window racer...…..$149
2nd Total = $2367

 

[-83MONTESS-]

Just remember the rule of thumb, think of a budget and then double it.

 

[motorheadmike]

That is not a good list of parts. Some will leave you disappointed and some are completely unnecessary.

Where is your tune? The quality of that alone will make or break a swap.

 

[fastNYsix]

If I were you I would scrap that list and start a new one. I would recommend the holley pan 302-2. the motor and trans have 80k, I wouldn't open them up unless something breaks. The truck engine bottom end is good for over 1000hp. Do you have column shift and are switching to floor shift? 6l80 wont fit without hacking up the tunnel, a 4l80 will fit with zero hammering or cutting. I used the holley engine mounts also. 6.0 4l80 fits perfectly. You need a cross member also.

 

[L92 OLDS]

I am planning, starting next spring, on swapping my 355/TH350 for a 6.0/6L80E and have been researching what my cost would be. I already have the donor vehicle and the engine and trans both run very good with 80K on them.

Killer engine and transmission combo compared to the old school 355 with a 3 speed. Are you aware that the 6L80 will not fit the factory G body tunnel? It's been done but with a lot of metal work. Also, the truck manifold is one of the best performing stock manifolds available. A custom sheet metal manifold seems like a wild card to me.

 

[Wraith]

That is not a good list of parts. Some will leave you disappointed and some are completely unnecessary.

Where is your tune? The quality of that alone will make or break a swap.

I agree with this. Your tune alone would start around $500 in my area. Plus you have nothing listed for fuel supply(tank, pump, lines, connections). I'm pretty sure that intake setup is offshore too.

 

[81cutlass]

Those fabricated aluminum intakes might look good, but VERY few intakes make more power than a 07+ LS TBSS style intake. There was a dyno test where the fabbed intake was down like 20+ hp on a mild 5.3 if I remember right. The only time you will gain much over a stock pickup intake is if you are revving over 7k RPM with big cubic inch or just want something that looks nice. Theres nothing wrong with looking nice but the GM had engineers that spent years developing that intake with super expensive tools. Those fabbed ones are made by a guy that laser cuts out some flat plate and uses a press brake to bend them into shape.

Pickup/SUV manifolds won't fit. Trust me i've tried. Go with headers or LS1 car as they actually fit if you want cast iron manifolds but going with a forged rotating assembly and cast manifolds is like putting a porterhouse steak on a sandwich made with 1 week old $1 loaves of bread. You can but why?

A hughes torque converter might not be bad but it's not a name thats well associated with more modern tech. If you want a 6l80 converter get one that comes from a company that does 6l80's. PTC, circle D are both well known.

 

[FastCraig]

I agree with this. Your tune alone would start around $500 in my area. Plus you have nothing listed for fuel supply(tank, pump, lines, connections).

My swap is tentatively planned for about 6 months from now. So I'm trying to get out in front of this to eliminate surprises down the line. Yes I know I will need a tune and trans tunnel mods. My car is already equipped with an electric fuel pump. The only potential problem with that is possibly not enough pressure for an EFI. That is something I'll have to look into but the system is already in place. I also already have a Run Cool 3" aluminum radiator with electric fan. I already have a Jegs cross member. I added the intake manifold because I'm, at the least, having a performance cam and valve train and opening up the heads along with decking them to get the compression up a bit. I didn't think the 80mm TB and stock injector truck intake would work well with the new combo. Is anyone running an upgraded LQ4 intake on a higher performance engine? What mods were used? I looked at the Holly oil pan and I went with the Muscle Car pan due to cost I believe. Motorhead Mike, why is this a bed list? I put this on here to get input from people who have done 6.0/6L80 swaps before and I'm months out so I can maximize my build/budget. I'm either going to have machine work done to the heads or get better ones and upgrade the cam and valvetrain. The rebuild kits are factored in as a worst case if the motor is hurt somehow. I am definitely upgrading the trans and torque converter. Again, the degree of rebuild will be determined upon an internal inspection.

 

[Wraith]

The stock intake is more than good enough for what you are planning, do some poking around on that intake and you will find it flows worse than a stock intake, they flow really well. What pump are you using? I agree with the PTC or Circle D converter choice stated by 81cutlass. I haven't read good things about the Schoenfield kit also, you would be better off with the BRP stuff and spend a little more or go Holley(that's what I used). I'd talk with Texas Speed and Performance about a cam they have a lot of great knowledge, Chevy stuff is usually a compromise on performance.

We're all here to help!

 

[Northernregal]

I wouldn’t suggest your parts list if I was giving advice.

Truck intake is very very good. You’ll lose big torque if you go sheet metal. Unless your drag racing at top RPM all the time it’s a waste of money.

You should get a set of headers, mounts and crossmember, slide a cam in with new valve springs and install a walbro or equivalent 255 fuel pump. Send the harness out for modification and spend the money on a tune. I wouldn’t even rebuild the transmission unless it was in a heavy towing rig. A 4L80e would be easier but a tuner will make the 6L80 feel pretty good.

Don’t throw the money at problems you don’t have.