Cutting frame in half and welding in a new section
- Thread starter 83OldsCutlass
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Middle of the attached image. The front and rear frame sections are boxed via overlapping stampings welded together. The section of the frame under the passenger area is made up of simple 'C' channels stamped from 12 gauge. Notice how this part of your frame is boxed only where the trans crossmember bolts on.
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ah ok, I know what your talking about. I had planed on boxing that it but im just wondering what the best way to join the two pieces together
So, that is the replacement section? I might have made the cut farther forward...but let's think about what you can do with what you've got. Try to stagger the welded joints between the inner and outer stampings. See the line in the center of the top of the frame rail? That's the joint between the two frame stampings. Consider the line of cuts in the attached image. I've seen people cut away the outer half of the arch over the rear wheels to buy more space for wider rear tires. I'm not a pro body guy. Others should weigh in.
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You should have had it cut in front of the factory welds(in front of the slotted hole in the picture). At least then you know exactly where to cut your current frame. 
A full frame swap would have been better, less work. To do the job right the body has to come off of the frame anyway. That rear clip looks like the leftovers of an Economy Modified...
A full frame swap would have been better, less work. To do the job right the body has to come off of the frame anyway. That rear clip looks like the leftovers of an Economy Modified...
thanks for the help guys, I gotta do some looking for a flat surface to do the job but im going to attempt it.
No floor is perfect so you have to create a square surface. Using levels, plum bobs, lazer pointers and the best tool... your eye. Of course the flatter the floor the better but if you gotta work with what you have there are ways to ddo it.
Yep, should have put it together at the factory seam.
But, if I HAD to use the piece you have, I would cut the inner leg behind the LCA mount ahead of the crossmember, and the outer leg in the kickup. This will help strengthen it as compared to a butt joint, and also help align the two sections.
Body will need to be off, and a frame rack or chassis jig is really going to be needed to stand a chance of being dimensionaly correct....especially given that you're having to ask how to do it. That is not a jab at you, just recognizing that your level of experience is less than would usually be desired for this operation. It's old hat to those of us in the collision trade, but everybody has to learn somehow.
FWIW, I'd still do a full frame swap given that it's not really a terribly obsolete piece, and cost is not typically high for one.
But, if I HAD to use the piece you have, I would cut the inner leg behind the LCA mount ahead of the crossmember, and the outer leg in the kickup. This will help strengthen it as compared to a butt joint, and also help align the two sections.
Body will need to be off, and a frame rack or chassis jig is really going to be needed to stand a chance of being dimensionaly correct....especially given that you're having to ask how to do it. That is not a jab at you, just recognizing that your level of experience is less than would usually be desired for this operation. It's old hat to those of us in the collision trade, but everybody has to learn somehow.
FWIW, I'd still do a full frame swap given that it's not really a terribly obsolete piece, and cost is not typically high for one.
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