Delcotron 12SI problem

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Mark is great at solving these types of problems......if only he could do something for the 2 toes I broke this past weekend..... 🙁

and don't anyone tell me to call a toe truck.... :mrgreen:
 
very interesting thread. I have the same "no charge" condition on my 1984 Cutlass. I have a rally cluster with both volt gauge AND idiot light... but my idiot light is a LED. I guess this is causing the issue...!! Back to a normal incadescent light next spring.
 
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Yeah Jack. See the difference in the pics? I just ignored the missing bulb when I swapped it over and it didn't click in my stupid old head that the won't-charge-until-2500rpm symptom occurred at the same time. Luckily GM and especially Pontiac is very good with interchangeability so my silver gauges fit Steve's pod. Gdouaire, welcome to the "I'll just change THIS with no regard to consequences" club. Check the brown wire at the alt "1" terminal for voltage with the key in 'run', motor off. The wire goes to switched ignition voltage for initial excitation of the field windings in the rotor. The bulb is there to let you know if there is a problem with the battery or alternator. When the motor is running and all is well, it 'sees' the same voltage at both ends, and goes out. Simple, but I sure learned the hard way! Steve, I shouldn't ask, but I will. WTF did you drop on your foot?!? :wtf:
 
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working on the pro late model we're building, I cut the long piece for an x brace and wasn't watching how I placed it across the car so it dropped and the pointed edge ended up on my foot.....oh well I like hobbling around... :blam:
 
OUCH! Sorry I asked. I hope they gave you some good painkillers.
 
They can't do anything for toes so I didn't bother checking it out and have my own painkillers that comes in a 40 oz bottle.... 🙂
 
For anyone looking to correct this problem or change how their alternator is energized, the bulb is probably the easier, cheaper option. Not only can you make use of its function as an indicator, its also much simpler to connect a readily available incandescent 12 V bulb in the circuit than to source an appropriate power resistor. If the resistance of the bulb used is indeed ~5 ohms, this provides a Current = Voltage/Resistance = ~12 V/5 ohms = ~2.4 Amp signal to the windings that will produce a much stronger magnetic field. This will likely lead to the alternator powering up faster than if provided with a lower current signal although it really depends on the actual alternator circuit involved. In order to provide an equivalent signal, a power resistor of 5 ohms rated for at least Power = VoltagexCurrent = 12 Vx2.4 A = 28.8 W is needed. Such a resistor would likely cost more and be more difficult to obtain than a simple incandescent indicator bulb but without the added ability to use it as an indicator.

However, as Steve and Jack have pointed out above, a 2.4 Amp signal may not be necessary for the alternator to turn on properly. Steve seems to be utilizing a much lower current signal of ~12 V/85 ohms = ~0.1412 A with a 3 W resistor. This seems to indicate that perhaps only a small current signal is needed as Steve's is 0.1412 A / 2.4 A = 0.0583 or about 6% of the one Mark is using for his.

It is a bit beyond the scope of this thread to discuss why the signal is needed and how large it should be but the most important thing to understand is that the L terminal must be seeing at least some current signal for the alternator to begin charging.
 
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Drogg1 I think you are right about it needing very little current to begin charging. Also the manual said that there must be resistance in the field wire to protect the diodes, whether it be a bulb, or resistance wire. My experience then showed that even without field current, at 2500 rpm the alternator became self energized and then charged normally even at idle.
 
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