Details of how to install a Hollow 36mm Front Sway Bar on a G-body

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UNGN

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i had no idea this bar wasn't a slam dunk of an install..good to know.nice job.

I thought the same thing until I did it THE THIRD TIME (the second time on same car) and I am like "why is this so hard. I know I have forgotten a lot of stuff, but I don't remember it being this hard".
 
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UNGN

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In case this sticks, I have a follow-on question.

Rear sway bars.

Was there more than one diameter offered from the factory?

yes, but I don't recommend any Factory Rear bar.

The Best "Factory Style" rear bars for performance are Monster sizes - 1.4" to 1.5". These bars crush factory Lower Control Arms (even Boxed ones), so you'll need to run aftermarket tubular arms. A monster rear bar eliminates understeer, but can cause binding issues driving fast in the real world on corners with rough pavement. Smooth parking lot autocross is probably fine.

A better option in 2020 is to run a "pro Touring" style rear bar. You don't need aftermarket LCA's and a smaller lighter bar will do the same job as a monster sized factory style bar, with no binding worries.
 
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PBGBodyFan

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yes, but I don't recommend any Factory Rear bar.

The Best "Factory Style" rear bars for performance are Monster sizes - 1.4" to 1.5". These bars crush factory Lower Control Arms (even Boxed ones), so you'll need to run aftermarket tubular arms. A monster rear bar eliminates understeer, but can cause binding issues driving fast in the real world on corners with rough pavement. Smooth parking lot autocross is probably fine.

A better option in 2020 is to run a "pro Touring" style rear bar. You don't need aftermarket LCA's and a smaller lighter bar will do the same job as a monster sized factory style bar, with no binding worries.

A friend shared video from under his MCSS in Auto X with one of those big axle/chassis rear mounted sway bars causing his wheel to lift, airborne, on a hard turn. Stiff springs and good arms, with no bar or the stock small bar is a good combination.
 

UNGN

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A friend shared video from under his MCSS in Auto X with one of those big axle/chassis rear mounted sway bars causing his wheel to lift, airborne, on a hard turn. Stiff springs and good arms, with no bar or the stock small bar is a good combination.

I'm guessing he had a drag race bar like an H&R? Those aren't really designed for autocrossing but will make the car oversteer and make you "think" it handles good, until it spins out.

If you don't run a rear bar, the car won't want to turn with good tires in back. Herb Adams sold a 1.5" factory location rear bar for G-bodies in the 1980's. Herb Adams raced Trans Am in the 1970's. I'd trust him over a friend who autocrossed his MCSS with poor results.
 
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81cutlass

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I agree on the install not being as slam dunk as I thought before in retrospect. I assumed the brackets were the same until I read this thread. Helps explain things better.

I picked up a hollow 34mm off an 85 z28 from the yard and used the factory moog replacement bushing with the factory G body bracket. I tightened it and the bushing definitely collapsed into more of an ellipse shape than round but I Ray Charles'ed it and said good enough. It's boarderline unacceptable with a 34mm bar and bushing so I can't image another 2mm loss in compressible rubber would be better.


As far as 'factory' rear bars that are an improvement over stock, the 24mm 2dr 98-05 rear blazer bar is a good option. I have the blazer rear bar and 34mm front bar with 5660 front springs and the car corners flat and only slightly understeers at the autocross, but I am attributing that to more lack of improved front suspension geometry. My car is set up for for drag use however so I'd rather have a stiff rear bar than soft.

Hellwig sells a sub $200 option for the same style axle mounted bar specific for G body use and belltech sells a larger diameter 28mm 2dr blazer upgrade bar for the rear for $260 that has new bushings and axle mount brackets which you are going to need anyways unless your salvage yard is really kind and uses a wrench to remove the U bolts instead of a torch.

 
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UNGN

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As far as 'factory' rear bars that are an improvement over stock, the 24mm 2dr 98-05 rear blazer bar is a good option. I have the blazer rear bar and 34mm front bar with 5660 front springs and the car corners flat and only slightly understeers at the autocross, but I am attributing that to more lack of improved front suspension geometry. My car is set up for for drag use however so I'd rather have a stiff rear bar than soft.

Hellwig sells a sub $200 option for the same style axle mounted bar specific for G body use and belltech sells a larger diameter 28mm 2dr blazer upgrade bar for the rear for $260 that has new bushings and axle mount brackets which you are going to need anyways unless your salvage yard is really kind and uses a wrench to remove the U bolts instead of a torch.


Any of the Axle/Body mount Non-G-body Factory bars that can be made to fit are an improvement over any of the LCA mounted G-body Factory bars, but its easy to just order a new one. Nobody sells a new, Hollow 36mm Front bar.
 
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timo22

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I have 6 or 7 36mm hollow bars if anybody is interested plus a bunch of 34mm's.

timo22
 
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Streetbu

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I drilled and tapped my front sway bar bushing shells for grease fittings, and drilled a hole thru the sway bar bushings that lined up with the grease fittings. Works like a charm and was basically free
 
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PBGBodyFan

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I'm guessing he had a drag race bar like an H&R? Those aren't really designed for autocrossing but will make the car oversteer and make you "think" it handles good, until it spins out.

If you don't run a rear bar, the car won't want to turn with good tires in back. Herb Adams sold a 1.5" factory location rear bar for G-bodies in the 1980's. Herb Adams raced Trans Am in the 1970's. I'd trust him over a friend who autocrossed his MCSS with poor results.

I wouldn't *not* trust Herb Adams but suspension parts have changed a bit since the 70's and each platform reacts differently. His statement was "g-bodies with rear swaybars push like dump trucks". The friend who autocrossed his SS is pretty well involved with autocrossing, you might even be familiar with him if you are into that scene as well. Doesn't mean he knows everything and it's all about parts working together, for someone a big rear bar might help greatly while the other car and totally different parts does not. I also recall Mark from SC&C stating something that a rear bar isn't always necessary, depending. I didn't run one on my SS for probably 10+ years, stuck a stock g-body one on with the last set of new LCA's, was planning on a Ridetech bar but re-thinking that.

Here is the link Cory sent me of his issue at the time (Lance Hamiltons SS):
 
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Streetbu

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Yes each car is different. Because part combinations are different. When you start mixing different spring weights, with different car corner weights, on different tires, and then throw in different sway bars, it gets complicated REAL quick
 
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