Do i need zinc additive?

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Trottiert

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Apr 10, 2020
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Uxbridge MA
Pulled the valve cover. Watched a video here:
At about 2:15 into it, he mentions that the rod bounce he is showing is because of a hydraulic lifter.
Is this insight without having to pull the rocker and measure?
Or does it not matter in this case because it could be a solid roller lifter?
Appreciate the input
 

Trottiert

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 10, 2020
29
32
13
Uxbridge MA
1588553846265573688245.jpg
 

Ribbedroof

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OE roller lifters are hydraulic also, in SBCs
 

Trottiert

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 10, 2020
29
32
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Uxbridge MA
OE roller lifters are hydraulic also, in SBCs
So by elimination, it doesn't bounce like in the video, so I should suspect they are flat tappet lifters and that I should be running an oil with a zinc additive.
As mentioned, the diesel oil is a cheap insurance.
Sounds like I'll be draining some oil.
 

CopperNick

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Feb 20, 2018
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Q. here. How long has the motor been in your car and how far have you driven it since the swap was done? if you did the swap, did the long block come with a flyer of instructions and recommendations from the builder/distributor regarding initial break in? If you didn't do the swap, did whoever the installer was offer or provide you with any details on how the motor was broken in? Have you ever filleted or cut open your oil filter during an oil change to check the filter material for debris?

Do have to agree that if a reman, it could be a mutt with different years of parts combined into one. Reman builders don't generally keep the core components together; they tend to dismantle and lump heads in one pile and cranks in another and rods in a third, etc, measure and mike everything and throw away the marginal or absolute junk and go from there. Also have to agree that the basic casting could easily have the provisions for the roller cam casted into the block's cam valley but never machined or finished out. Blocks got casted up to a year or more ahead of projected use or need and then thrown out into the bush to age for a year or more before being brought back in to finish machine. The theory back then was that a "green" casting, that being one fresh from the foundry, could shift or move internally and that leaving them to "age" allowed them to assume their final internal shape prior to being machined. Aluminum blocks don't suffer that indignity. (LOL)

Point here is that Zinc is an additive that is used during several situations, such as when running in a new cam with new lifters and associated components or when starting a motor up for the first time, post priming the oil pump. Most contemporary oils don't come with Zinc as an additive any more due to the EPA interfering again. Specialty Chemists such as Royal Purple do offer Zinc rich versions of their oil and Zinc can be bought as an additive.

Do fully agree that you need to identify what type of cam system, flat tappet, or roller, you are dealing with, before the engine tells you what version it is but does so by going...………………….. boom.
 

Trottiert

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 10, 2020
29
32
13
Uxbridge MA
Q. here. How long has the motor been in your car and how far have you driven it since the swap was done? if you did the swap, did the long block come with a flyer of instructions and recommendations from the builder/distributor regarding initial break in? If you didn't do the swap, did whoever the installer was offer or provide you with any details on how the motor was broken in? Have you ever filleted or cut open your oil filter during an oil change to check the filter material for debris?

Do have to agree that if a reman, it could be a mutt with different years of parts combined into one. Reman builders don't generally keep the core components together; they tend to dismantle and lump heads in one pile and cranks in another and rods in a third, etc, measure and mike everything and throw away the marginal or absolute junk and go from there. Also have to agree that the basic casting could easily have the provisions for the roller cam casted into the block's cam valley but never machined or finished out. Blocks got casted up to a year or more ahead of projected use or need and then thrown out into the bush to age for a year or more before being brought back in to finish machine. The theory back then was that a "green" casting, that being one fresh from the foundry, could shift or move internally and that leaving them to "age" allowed them to assume their final internal shape prior to being machined. Aluminum blocks don't suffer that indignity. (LOL)

Point here is that Zinc is an additive that is used during several situations, such as when running in a new cam with new lifters and associated components or when starting a motor up for the first time, post priming the oil pump. Most contemporary oils don't come with Zinc as an additive any more due to the EPA interfering again. Specialty Chemists such as Royal Purple do offer Zinc rich versions of their oil and Zinc can be bought as an additive.

Do fully agree that you need to identify what type of cam system, flat tappet, or roller, you are dealing with, before the engine tells you what version it is but does so by going...………………….. boom.
Unfortunately I don't know the specific history of the car.
I purchased a few months ago and I am going through it slowly.
Making some upgrades as I go. Figuring it out piece by piece.
 

ck80

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Feb 18, 2014
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So by elimination, it doesn't bounce like in the video, so I should suspect they are flat tappet lifters and that I should be running an oil with a zinc additive.
As mentioned, the diesel oil is a cheap insurance.
Sounds like I'll be draining some oil.

This one time if you JUST changed the oil it's cheaper to buy your favorite zddp additive and run it with that for 3 months / 3k miles.

Changing oil weights and choosing synthetic/conventional isn't a knee jerk reaction to keep making lightly. It's how you spring future seeps and weeps.

Seriously 15w-40?
Curiois why I wouldn't want an oil weight closer to the specified.

What's wrong with 15w-40? It's the likely weight you're going to run if you choose to go diesel oil.

Also, back in the older days - from the early 80s through when they screwed with zinc/etc everything of ours got 10-40. Never lost an engine, ranging from a couple hundred k miles on 231 v6s to 600k miles and counting on the 87 suburban's 350.

Had cars totalled, or rust out, but never lost an engine. Since the oil formula changes everything gets 15w-40, except for the mustangs which run 5-20 weight due to special circumstances of the engine construction/configuration...
 
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pontiacgp

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Mar 31, 2006
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since you have determind that a few valves are not seating oil is not going to cure that. You need a valve job or rebuilt heads........I'm surprised no one has jumped in to try to talk you into an LS conversion.....:popcorn:
 
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