>>Don't Want To Get Snowballed<<

[B1tchin'-Buick]

X2 on option A
Bitchin'-Buick wrote: "That's why I do 98% of my own work."
It will be hard to make this statement if you are going to pay someone to do 100% of the work!

You guys are right. "Option A" is what I'm leaning towards.... I was only looking at "option B" cause I'm Impatient....

Game plan until refund time >>> Research, Research, and More Research....... I'll start another thread when I get My ducks in-a-row........ 8)

Again,Thank ALL Of You Guys for all the Info..... I think we can let this thread fade away. >>>Mike

 

[Bonnewagon]

Here's my last 2 cents worth- Dean's advice is right on. That's how I do things too, except I'm a total cheap-*ss. I would find a decent tight Buick 350 that has good compression, oil pressure, no major oil leaks, an HEI, and a T-350 trans. I know that sounds like a goose chase but that's the "research" part. Then I would clean it up, paint it, install it. I learned many years ago to NOT open up a healthy motor, but just put a new oil pump, water pump, timing chain, and remove all the tin and change gaskets. I leave the heads and short block be, that's why you do a compression/oil test, so you don't need to screw with it. And the Buick part makes it easier to swap plus increases the cool factor, those 350's are great motors. Good luck!

 

[deanlemans81]

With all the snow Montreal has got I'm surprised Dean clicked on any thread mentioning snow...

couln`t help it, misery loves company 😀 , Can you spot the Lemans?

Sorry for the long winded post but sometimes when I start it`s hard to stop. I also would go with option A. Not only is it cheaper but the satisfaction of doing it yourself is hard to beat. Like bonnewagon said, if you go the used engine route, the point of getting a good one is to drop it in and go. Otherwise you get a cheap core and rebuild $$$$.

Good research is the key.

deanlemans81

 

[B1tchin'-Buick]

Thank you Dean, I will definitely be referring back to your post as I get the ball rolling.....

You better order EXTRA Popcorn for my build thread when it comes....
It's gonna' be a slow process for me......

It will be worth it in the long run > Thanks <Mike>

 

[pontiacgp]

if you do end up rebuilding an engine I'd suggest to get a good manual with pictures. The first engine I rebuilt was a buick 350, I got a GM shop manual for it and followed each step in the book and worked out great. There was no internet back then so we had to use our fingers to flip the pages instead of searching on goggle

 

[Bonnewagon]

Another 2 cents. Define "rebuild" without expensive machines, gauges, and skills= waste of time and money. Ask me how I know. So unless you have access to crank grinding machine, boring machine, honing machine, valve and seat grinder, hot tank, blast cabinet, shall I go on? An actual "rebuild" should be done by a pro or farmed out piecemeal and assembled by you. But after all that expensive machine work, if a problem arises, can you handle it, or would you rather the motor still be with the pro? And anyone who says they "rebuilt" a motor in their garage with a hand drill mounted honing stone and some plasti-gauge, really didn't do any more than freshen up a fairly sound motor that was very close to specs already. That's why I will play around with GOOD parts motors building various combinations, but when a motor is shot, I send it out to a pro. So if you really don't want to get snowballed, your options are limited : a NEW motor, a rebuilt w/warranty, or a good tight used motor. And then do it yourself, the money saved will buy a boatload of beer.

 

[pontiacgp]

Your right Mark, what I should have said assembling and not rebuilding an engine". I sent the machine shop what needed to be machined and reassembled the engine by the book..



I bet those poor guys sure didn't realize what punch out meant at the end of the day at that job..

 

[Bonnewagon]

Exactly Steve. I hate to see these guys waste hard earned money on expensive parts, tons of time, agravation, all on a motor that will probably smoke or break in short order. I learned the hard way, let them learn by our mistakes.

 

[B1tchin'-Buick]

My apologies I should have never said I was going to do a "Build Thread" >> Mikey's Bad >>

For the reasons listed above, and that I was also already running all those same thoughts threw my head the last few days...I have no business doing re-build, TRUST me I get it..... SO I came to the conclusion I will not do a Re-Build... >>>> I will however still plan on carrying threw with transplant as follows..

I can get the basic G.M./Goodwrench crate motor - Basic 350 (Jegs part # 809-10067353) It's not ready to drop in and go but it get's me off to a "really good head start" for what I can afford as of refund time... I don't need a monster power-plant that blinds me with chrome, not that there's anything wrong with that.>> Anything will be better than my 3.8NA!

I could find a used motor > roll the dice > do alot of work and have it fail on me in 2 weeks or 6 months. I plan to keep this car and want to enjoy her every chance I can get her outta' the Damn garage. Normally I am a very Impatiant frugal cheap b*st*rd so spending the money on a crate motor is a VERY tough decision. But sense I plan to enjoy her for years to come It only seems practical.... It will probably be At Least a year project while I have the money to accumulate all that I need > Trans, Intake manifold, Carb, New coil springs up front, Ect, Ect, Ect............. I was also already planning on getting books/manuals as part of my research I had previously mentioned. THANKS AGAIN !

<Mike>

 

[Bonnewagon]

That sounds like a good plan.