Drop in Aluminum Radiator Under $300?

[Turbo Zach]

It's 26x18 so it's not "dinky". You got other issues then if you can't cool with that radiator. The typical GN replacement is the Camaro version of that same radiator and and that's with an intercooler in the way.

I have been running the Camaro version with no problems. I am sure I have more under hood heat than most with the turbo and all my piping. I do have dual electric fans and a 160 thermostat though.

 

[fleming442]

I think summit should be able to accommodate your needs. I have a summit brand aluminum rad in my cutlass. It's made by a company called Nathan. Its affordable and requires very minors modification to fit. I didn't have to do nothing crazy like welding, making brackets or cutting anything on the car. I was able to use the factory bushings and v-8 mounting bracket.

I think they're Northern brand. I bought a $180 Summit universal fit for the 67, and it is a Northern, all aluminum, made in the United states piece.

 

[Injectedcutty]

I think they're Northern brand. I bought a $180 Summit universal fit for the 67, and it is a Northern, all aluminum, made in the United states piece.

I had a Northern in my Cutlass for years. I NEVER had a problem with cooling on the SBC, the only issue for me recently was it was a generic GM size. The straight up fill neck wouldn't clear my hood, so I sold it. I'm watching this thread as I'll need a new unit with a slanted fill cap.

 

[Lukeschwtz]

I have a 400 horse small block in my cutlass. The rad I have works fine. Its not always just the rad that keeps things cool, it's a combination of things. If I turn my idle up or adjust the timing the engine will over heat. If my rad was bigger modification would have to be made. You may just have to spend a little more money for something better.

 

[pontiacgp]

6 pages and counting on a thread about a rad....

 

[MrSony]

Compared to an all aluminum radiator such as a champion, be cool, etc, the one I have that's barely 2 inches thick with plastic tanks is something I'd call dinky. And I'm planning for future upgrades as well. The engine was fresh re done a year ago, by me. It's not like it has 33 years of gunk built up in the cooling system. That radiator just isn't enough. Plus, it arrived bowed in the middle, and has been frozen solid once. There is about 1/4 gap between the fan shroud and the radiator. When new it may have cooled fine, (it did when I bought it), but it's been through the ringer and visually it irritates me. Plus, I hate the idea of having plastic tanks on a radiator. No reason for it. Gonna go with one of the radiators previously mentioned.
Looks like I'm going with the EC162, or something very similar. Thanks for all the input everyone.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I have also used that single core rad with plastic tanks. It was ok with my 8 to 1 403, maybe 200 degrees max in normal driving. Towing my boat hit 220+. I would rather have too much cooling than not enough.

 

[pagrunt]

6 pages and counting on a thread about a rad....

Makes you miss taking the old copper/brass one out to a radiator shop, tell them to fix it & all was good.

 

[pontiacgp]

Makes you miss taking the old copper/brass one out to a radiator shop, tell them to fix it & all was good.

they were good and easy to repair but it's not that difficult to find a replacement, that is if you do need one

 

[565bbchevy]

You posted that already #56