Drop spindles + lowering springs?

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Coilovers are a big $tep i'd run your combo by a customer
Service dept that way you get steered rite the firstime.keep your stock spindles,if nothing else you won't make the front end geometry any worse than when you started and you're not wasting your money on spindles that don't need,replacing
Believable... I came across a qa1 coilover kit for 900 both front and rear but the problem i think would be that I'd also have to buy a set of new control arms or would it work on the old stock ones..?
 
Keep in mind that if your steering geometry is correct now, then using lowering springs will make it incorrect. Drop spindles will alleviate this issue. Also, the wheel fitment issue is a good one, it stinks to buy and install parts to work with your current setup, and then decide you want to change the wheels that your were previously working around.

Weight via motor upgrades also affect stance. We put a new power plant in the car last winter and it dropped the car an inch and improved the geometry????? Kind of hard to imagine, but it did.

Good luck.
 
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you can use the oe arms.as long as the front coil overs are designed specifically for replacing the factory front shocks and springs.not just any coil over spring will work on the front.the front coil over spring has to taper out as it goes up to meet the larger coil spring pocket in the frame.a standard coil over spring is the same width throughout and isn't wide enough @the top.
the rear is a little more complicated,but not hard.where that coil over is so much wider than a standard shock it's not as a straight bolt in affair as changing the shock.the real estate won't allow it.again you need to buy a kit that has the bracketry that will locate and allow it to bolt up correctly in a g-body.
 
Funny, I don't think I gained any track width with the drop spindles in the wagon. I know I sure would have appreciated some...
 
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The coilover's would work fine with the stock arms. The center shock of the coilover mounts the same way as stock.

True, but the whole weight of the car isn't being put on the shock mount (its spread over the a larger area on the spring perch).

Coilovers with stock arms will likely cause premature fatigue failure of the area around the shock mount, which wasn't designed for that kind of loading.
 
True, but the whole weight of the car isn't being put on the shock mount (its spread over the a larger area on the spring perch).

Coilovers with stock arms will likely cause premature fatigue failure of the area around the shock mount, which wasn't designed for that kind of loading.
Good point, I didn't think about that. I'm still running springs and shocks. If I upgrade to coilover's I will also upgrade my lower A arms.
 
Keep in mind that if your steering geometry is correct now, then using lowering springs will make it incorrect. Drop spindles will alleviate this issue. Also, the wheel fitment issue is a good one, it stinks to buy and install parts to work with your current setup, and then decide you want to change the wheels that your were previously working around.

Weight via motor upgrades also affect stance. We put a new power plant in the car last winter and it dropped the car an inch and improved the geometry????? Kind of hard to imagine, but it did.

Good luck.

🙂 "Correct" is relative. The factory steering geometry can be improved with taller lower ball joints, which also helps with the suspension geometry.

With tall ball joints and lowered springs, my 2+2 has less straight line bump steer than either of my miatas while having a similar camber curve.
 
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I also run lowering springs with a tall lower ball joint. I just use Eibach Pro-kit springs with a Speedway 1/2 inch taller lower ball joint. (The tall lower ball joints actually make your ride height lower!) I use stock lower A-arms.
 
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