Its going to be running roughly 3 times as much power as it was stock. Its not overkill to me, its insurance. I want a car that is going to handle well too. If you had been standing there watching that frame flop around and distort on the stand while only being manipulated by hand you might have feel different about it.
El Camino chassis, notched, boxed braced and re-welded
- Thread starter Ace Burt
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How is it insurance when you have ineffective penetration on a 1/4" thick projectile running along the 20/22ga floor boards? I find it odd that you openly criticize the factory for poor welding techniques, yet you apply the same approach.
Also 3 x 150hp isn't enough to justify the effort.
Frankly I don't care if you agree with me or not. Its not your car and your not paying the bills.
There always has to be that " one guy" on every forum...... start a bad *ss build, take the time to write it up, put it together and post pics hoping to make someone else's life a little easier and then that guy just has to show everyone how smart he is and criticize everything you did. That's why we don't see this kind of stuff on the forums anywhere in any detail. When was the last time you had a g body off the frame and looked closely at the welds? We didn't see blowing holes or melting the cheap thin metal frame while adding thicker material as a good thing so we couldn't run it as hot we might have liked.
Do the math on cutting off the rounded edge of the frame (where all the strength is) vs the lateral strength of various metal thicknesses. No way you get something stronger than the original using the skinny stuff welding it against a frame rail.
HP is 600+ at the flywheel. What does your wagon put out? Now I am waiting for the shitty comments on my motor.....
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nice work but you'll need to make the access hole larger to get the body bushing and bolt through that hole, that is unless you are using something else as an alternative to a body bushing.
The bushings wont go though that hole for sure. Actually we took an electrical fish tape and ran it down to the next hole where the front of the frame and the sides come together and pulled one into place from there with the mock up plate held on with clamps. We put the hole in there (there is a factory one on the outside of the frame too) so we could maneuver everything into place once we pulled it through. Once we knew we could do it we welded it up.
good catch
the frame is 14 gauge material and that is what I used to box the frame. It looks like you did continuous bead on the plate to box the frame, I hope you did something to hold the frame straight so it didn't twist with the heat of welding. Even with the 14 gauge plate it will twist. As for strength we used 14 gauge to box the frame on all our circle track cars and that section never twisted even after wrecks and all the times each side of the car was jacked up by the boxed c section.
Perhaps you should have a better look around at some builds on the forum before you go making that statement...
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/the-juggernaut-build-thread.55095/page-5
The 1/4" plate will probably help saving money on the build, you won't have to buy lowering springs....😀
Ace, we are not trying to be harsh, it's a safety thing. When you start ripping around in the car, the non penetrated welds will fail. As stated earlier, the access hole should be big enough to get the cushion inside the frame. You should have your new body mount in hand to figure the size hole you'll need. My urethane ones were bigger around than original. It's going to be a cool build
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