I just cranked car, and its revving to almost 1.5k-2k RPMS. It wasnt doing this yesterday, then last night it did. I thought maybe if i let it sit it would go back to how it was. NOT. I checked best i could for vacumm leaks and found none. Is there any other cause for this? Also the EGR is capped off in 2 spots on it. Where did the lines off these nipples go to? I know these haynes manuals all say the same thing, "Mark each line as you take it off to remember where it goes." I didnt take these off so, so much for that. I would like to hook this EGR back up and see if it changes the way it runs down the road, but first i need to make this thing idle right again. This is stumping me, why would it idle fine then idle up next time?
Emissions Got Me Frustrated
- Thread starter sarends
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A key part of the CCC system is the oxygen sensor. The computer uses that along with a bunch of other signals to adjust the mixture. So If you have a non-stock exhaust or no oxygen sensor at all, that can mess up the computer's calculations.
The computer doesn't try to adjust the mixture during wide open throttle or during warm-up. It IS involved during part throttle, so it could be your problem, although the other guys are right, it may be something else. Somewhere around 1/2 - 2/3 throttle is where the secondaries start getting involved, so you do't want to ignore that.
The computer doesn't try to adjust the mixture during wide open throttle or during warm-up. It IS involved during part throttle, so it could be your problem, although the other guys are right, it may be something else. Somewhere around 1/2 - 2/3 throttle is where the secondaries start getting involved, so you do't want to ignore that.
Im digging up old wiring connecters tucked away here and there and all the vacuum lines are capped or running 3 or 4 lines off one port. This is a mess and im really sick of trying to mess with it. Its still idled up high and wont idle down. I dont know if this is the original engine or not, kinda looks like they stuck an older 307 in this car with the newer CC carb and dist. Im thinking im just going to jerk all that crap out and start over with another carb. Ive got an old 650 holley laying around that needs rebuilt, would that be a good idea? If so, what type of adapter plate am i going to need if any to make it set on this intake? Would it be better to try to make what ive got work better or just remove it all and go to something else? Heck, if this gives me much more issues im going to grab another small block and stick in here.
RITTER said:
Ive noticed that the choke doesnt work at all, im thinking thats because of this other device on the carb that i was told is supposed to be connected to the elec choke... this device is just capped off. This is really a nightmare
Also Ritter, i was wondering with your Regal, what kinda MPG do you get? I like your setup but im thinking you prolly get around 10-12mpg. I dont see that as being a daily driver.
After wading through this topic, I have to say it sounds like it would be better to just chuck everything and start from scratch with pre-CCC stuff, and it would still be a weak 307. A Q-jet from an early 307, or a Pontiac 301, would be ideal, preferably an 80' that has the electric choke although an earlier hot air choke can be upgraded with the electric choke on your current carb. Even a 350 carb wouldn't be off by much. And an old HEI would work fine. Trying to locate/replace all the emissions stuff is just silly.
Bonnewagon said:
Do i need a q-jet to go back with? Seems like thats what your leading to. I can get an old q-jet off a 350, easy. I have this old holley in a bucket somewhere... Seems like they are easier to keep running than the q-jet. Also, is it ANY old HEI dist that i need in place of my CC? I may also have one of them lying around as well. I know a buddy of mine has a 350 RV engine thats a 82' and it has a q-jet and im sure HEI dist too. Its bout ready to be parted out anyhow i might try to get those from him. I dont really want the emissions stuff on there, but ive been told it wont run correctly unless you remove this carb and dist too or put it all back on.
As posted prior, it's total CCC or nothing at all. The computer needs all the factory stuff to make informed decisions, and anything missing is just like blinding it. You don't NEED a Q-jet, but it's nice when the linkages and lines all fit correctly, and they are available for cheap. ALL Q-jets are pretty much the same, except for minor changes over the years, and of course Chevy fuel inlet is different than the rest. Jets and metering rods were motor specific, but are easily changed. So a 350 carb may be out by a few jet sizes, but nothing radical. I just find Q-jets very easy to deal with but if you have a small Holley try it and see. The biggest mistake guys make is overcarbing. My buddy had a 69' Chevelle with a 327 and it ran super with a tiny 500cfm Holley. You have a 307, so fit the punishment to the crime. As for the HEI the only thing to watch out for is the shaft length, which will be apparent, and the rotation, which won't be. Observe the vacuum canister, it will indicate rotation, clockwise or counter-clockwise. All the guts are the same and the timing advance can easily be tuned. So what you would do is strip the motor down to it's bare essentials. Then install a non-computer carb and HEI, tuning them as you would on a pre-computer car, specs and all. Not that hard to do, but knowing what the specs are is the trick. Pick a year your motor was offered, like 79' or 80' then apply those specs. If keeping EGR (why not) then use EGR timing, if not use pre-EGR timing(much less). Welcome to Hot-Rodding.
sarends said:
Just look for yourself and see. The EGR valve should have 1 nipple for a vacuum line. The vac line that connects to this goes to the EGR solenoid ( black box on rear drivers side valve cover ). From the 'black box' a vac line goes to the proper port on the carb. The EGR solenoid should have a 4 wire connecter going to it.
If yours is different from this, it is incorrect.
He is 100% wrong. There were NO true dual G-body cars. Keep in mind the former owner seems to have butchered up this car pretty good, so I would'nt believe a word he has to say about anything....
You need a timing light. Doing it by ear is a joke. If you do it by ear,it will be wrong because you're just guessing . A timing light is cheap or you can just borrow one from a friend. Time it with a light, get it set RIGHT, and eliminate it as a problem.
You need a Chassis Service Manual like the ones the dealerships used. Take the Haynes and/or Chilton's manuals and throw em in the trash.
Since the previous owner butchered everything up, I would consider getting rid of the CCC system. If you do, get a Qjet because it's the best carb for your application and will bolt right in with no hassles ( assuming you get the proper Qjet ).
DoubleV said:
Thanks for all the good information, ill check on the routing of the EGR tomorrow. The tag on the shroud is gone, and been painted so ive been checking on this tag picture online but its blurry and dont say much so your info is really helpful. As for the factory duals, maybe this car had already had the duals put on it and he just had them replaced. Car does have True Duals on it now, and i like the sound of this 307 w/flowmasters. I will get a good service manual but that will be in time. Im going to get rid of all the CCC system but im just sorting out what i have right now. Ill have to find the right carb and dist. for it. Im still able to drive the car as is but its just going to use more gas idled up like it is. Its not everyday driver but i drive it occasionally. I appreciate all your comments and I love my cutlass in all ways. Nice to have such a good crowd of people to talk to about it here. Thanks again and ill check back soon for more suggestions.
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