Ok, i got my flashlight and looked... this cant be right. The EGR valve is routed to the breather canister. There is no little black box on the valve cover for it to hook to. Must have already been removed. I also didnt think the car had a O2 sensor but it looks like the exhuast man added one into the new system. Looks like new, its on the pass side. For an 86' it looks like a lot of stuff is gone under the hood. I can actually see the valve covers and i guess thats what the prevoius owner was going for. So i guess only emis. it has is the EGR which isnt even hooked up right. I dont know how to deal with this other than remove it totally when i put on a new carb and dist. but no telling how long it may be till i get those in hand. I would like to remove the computer itself too, but my dash is already cracked and old so if i take it out it comes out in pieces. I will need a new one on hand when i do that to put it back together. I do have the rally pac guages tho, so i guess thats one good thing although half of them arent working or arent working right. Ive got the tach working but its reading high, sometimes double the norm RPM and sometimes just a hundred or 2 off. Speedo isnt working but i hear it spinning in the dash. I dont think the OIL pres. is working since pegs over 60 sometimes and just at 45 sometimes. Other guages seem to be working. This is going to take some work to get this car to what ide consider to be road worthy. I can drive it in town like it is but to be "Road Worthy" ide have to trust it to take me cross country to see my mother. What kinda gas mileage can you expect out of these 307's with a 3 spd and 2.14's? With emissions would the gas mileage be better or worse?
Emissions Got Me Frustrated
- Thread starter sarends
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You don't have to remove the dash to remove the computer. The computer is behind the passenger side kick panel.
There's no real big difference in milage whether you're running the emmissions stuff or not. There are a couple of exceptions; the EGR will give you SLEIGHTLY better MPG at steady cruising and a cat converter can rob you of a little MPG and power if it's the older style pellet type converter. Newer converters are pretty good though.
Your inaccurate tach is a common but easily fixed problem. Google it and you'll find the proceedure to fix it.
I think you need to describe your high idle problem some more so we can help you fix it. If you can get some good engine pics, that'll help too.
There's no real big difference in milage whether you're running the emmissions stuff or not. There are a couple of exceptions; the EGR will give you SLEIGHTLY better MPG at steady cruising and a cat converter can rob you of a little MPG and power if it's the older style pellet type converter. Newer converters are pretty good though.
Your inaccurate tach is a common but easily fixed problem. Google it and you'll find the proceedure to fix it.
I think you need to describe your high idle problem some more so we can help you fix it. If you can get some good engine pics, that'll help too.
Ok, as for the idling... when i crank the car it is running smoothly, no misses or anything, but its automaticly reved up to around 2k. The choke is not stuck, its not working at all but its in the fully open position. You can hit the gas and it doesnt rev down. It really seems like a vacuum leak but one at a time i took off the lines on the carb with it running and capped them with my finger and didnt notice any difference. Ive already tightened the bolts on the carb when i got the car and it didnt help. The two lower vacuum ports on the front of the carb seem like they arent pulling any vacuum at all. Even with the motor reved up they arent. Possibly someone put the wrong base gasket on this carb. Should i just pulll the carb off and clean it and check to see if thats the right base gasket? If so how will i know if thats the right gasket or not? If i put the car in gear it seems to idle about where it should in park. It will try to drive off on me tho. This problem wasnt happening when i got the car and drove it home, 150 miles. It didnt happen the next day either but the day after and then all of a sudden its like this. We tried to adjust the idle down and it didnt change idle speed at all. So next day i came outside and cranked it and its idled so low it wont hardly run from us turning it down so far. We idled it back up and it was fine for that day and next day its idled up again. Tell me why it would do this intermitently. Also i would keep the EGR in place if it helps out on MPG a little but i think im missing that EGR solenoid since they routed it directly to the small line on the breather canister. It doesnt make sense that way but it was running with it like that. And like i said, no cats, true duals with flowmasters... 2 1/4 straight pipes all the way. I will try to get some pics soon, ill have to borrow my neigbors camera to get some.
Im glad you told me about the Olds HEI so i didnt waste my money. Ill have to check my local pickaparts to see what they got.
Im glad you told me about the Olds HEI so i didnt waste my money. Ill have to check my local pickaparts to see what they got.
Get rid of that carb and distributor. It is a lot easier to trouble shoot with out those variables they may well be the whole cause. I am sure it is. Check ebay and www.realoldspower.com and www.oldspower.com for distributors.
This all sounds like a choke problem to me.
First off you said the choke is always open, so right there something is wrong. Second, the choke system is more than just a 'flapper' over the carb. It is also designed to make your idle higher when the choke is 'on' and to idle normally when the chokes off. This faster idle is adjustable independantly from the normal idle. I can almost garuntee the choke is your problem, which could be bent/missing/incorrectly installed linkage, or just incorrect settings. Unfortunately it's a bit difficult to fix over the internet.
And please post with paragraphs. It's hard to read a big wall of text....
First off you said the choke is always open, so right there something is wrong. Second, the choke system is more than just a 'flapper' over the carb. It is also designed to make your idle higher when the choke is 'on' and to idle normally when the chokes off. This faster idle is adjustable independantly from the normal idle. I can almost garuntee the choke is your problem, which could be bent/missing/incorrectly installed linkage, or just incorrect settings. Unfortunately it's a bit difficult to fix over the internet.
And please post with paragraphs. It's hard to read a big wall of text....
DoubleV said:
The choke could be the problem but whenever it was idling up i unhooked the little plug for the choke and it didnt change. I went around that choke thinking it being unhooked and not doing anything when i crank the car, must mean it wasnt the problem. Is there a diagram of how its supposed to be hooked up somewhere?
Please read this, all about Rochester chokes and other adjustments. Just scroll down to the 4 barrel section.http://aarc.epnet.com/autoapp/8668/8668R05_ADJUSTMENTS.htm
sarends said:
When is it 'ideling up' exactly? When does it go back down?
What plug on the choke are you refering to? Do you have an electric choke? Remember the choke is more than just the flapper on top of the car. It's a whole system that makes your engine rev higher when the choke is on. You definately have at least some choke issues since you say it's always open.
Do you still have that big goofy vacuum diaphram on the front drivers side of the carb? That thing kicks up your idle during certain situations. Just remove it if it's still there since you won't ( or aren't ) be running the proper gizmos to make it work right anyway.
Pics would help greatly.
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