The carb actually is acting like something is sticking inside of it. I cant be sure about it but it is now idled up again after a little bit of "Hard Work" coming back from the store earlier. After i got back i noticed that its idling up again, possible float stuck? I dont know. Its running just great when its idled right, i think i may just take it down to this local guy that rebuilds them and get this one done up fresh and stick it back on. If its easy enough i think i may just keep the CCC system and whatever the bare essentials for that are. So my question is what are all the components that NEED to be in place for the CCC to work properly? I still have the EGR valve but i dont think ive got the solenoid that goes to it. List out what all i have to have on here to make it work. Please, thanks
Emissions Got Me Frustrated
- Thread starter sarends
- Start date
- Status
I made a post here a few months ago that explains everything you need/don't need with the computer. Do a search, and you'll find it.
This what you need to do; the next time it's idling high, look at the throttle linkage. Is it touching the curb idle screw? If not, is it being controlled by the fast idle screw ( just turn it and see if the idle changes ). When it idles normal, is the throttle linkage touching the curb idle screw?
These things are VERY easy to check. Do so and report back.
Having your CCC carb rebuilt by some local mechanic usually ends bad because most of these guys are just hacks. Also, if you don't know how a carb works to tune it right, it ain't gonna matter anyway. :wink:
This what you need to do; the next time it's idling high, look at the throttle linkage. Is it touching the curb idle screw? If not, is it being controlled by the fast idle screw ( just turn it and see if the idle changes ). When it idles normal, is the throttle linkage touching the curb idle screw?
These things are VERY easy to check. Do so and report back.
Having your CCC carb rebuilt by some local mechanic usually ends bad because most of these guys are just hacks. Also, if you don't know how a carb works to tune it right, it ain't gonna matter anyway. :wink:
DoubleV said:
Ok this is what i found out; I waited over 24 hrs. and just went outside and cranked the car with the breather off, the throttle linkage is touching the curb idle screw and the choke flap is barely open. I waited about 30 seconds maybe a minute and hit the gas and the choke flap opened up and stayed open. The car started at a fairly low idle and that made it idle a bit lower. It wasnt warmed up but i think it needed idled up a little bit there.
I take it from that, that the choke is actually working. Correct? Also I take it from that, that the fast idle isnt working. Maybe that fast idle is whats causing it to idle up once in a while. Its not working now but maybe it works sometimes and is adjusted too high. I havent adjusted it but I had someone adjust it for me. I dont know if its right or not, but it wasnt working at all just now.
Also, was wondering if i remove that little plunger thingy on the carb in way of the idle screw, what do i do with the spring thats attached to it?
I have been running quadrajets for 20 + years, your symptons sound like the wrong base gasket, you need the thick gasket made specificaly for the quadrajet. The yahoos at the parts store usualy give you a thin one that wont seal which gives you an intermitten vacuum leak. So pull the old cc carb off find out what size jets and needles it has find another quad and buy the correct sized jets and needles for it rebuild it with a fresh kit epoxy the plugs and install it on the car with the thick gasket.
Now find out where your distributor rotor is pointing mark it on the manifold and install an older model hei make sure the rotor is pointing the same way and your almost done. Now start the car and adjust idle screws and when its warm adjust mixture and timing. Easy as drinking beer lol
Now find out where your distributor rotor is pointing mark it on the manifold and install an older model hei make sure the rotor is pointing the same way and your almost done. Now start the car and adjust idle screws and when its warm adjust mixture and timing. Easy as drinking beer lol
autowizard said:
Now that about the base gasket, thats gotta be it. Someone was telling me that there wasnt any vacuum coming from one or two of the ports on the carb that are just plugged off and that was cause the base gasket. I didnt know if they knew what they were talking about or not. I didnt pay much attention cause those ports on the carb are plugged anyhow so they arent hurting anyone. I would like to know what they use to go to, probly emissions stuff thats gone? Car is acting fine right now, and seems that it may be that the problem arrises after hard RPM's. Not sure on that yet. I didnt want to mess with it too much since its been working like it is for this other guy and seems to run fine, if i tinker too much it might not run at all later. Right now im just going to try to make sure that all is there for the CCC system to run properly, since I dont have another carb right now. Ive got this old holley but come to find out its not a 650, its a 750. I think thats a little too much for this car. Ill buy another base gasket soon and install it and see what it does. That might be all it is.
@DoubleV.... i didnt find that post you were talking about. Could i get a link to it please? If not too much trouble, thanks.
The problem with the thin gaskets is they dont completley seal the front of the carb, so when you get on the gas the engine vacuum pulls the gasket into the cahannels on the front of the carb just enough to cause a vacuum leak. When the car sits for awhile the gaskets returns to its original place and the car will run fine till you romp on it again.
It took me a long time to figure this out on an old chevy pickup, it drove me nuts i changed carbs on this thing like 6 times before i realized the gasket was the problem. So when ya buy the gasket look at it from the top on the front it should be a straight line from one side to the other. If it curves down around the front carb bolts it wont seal.
It took me a long time to figure this out on an old chevy pickup, it drove me nuts i changed carbs on this thing like 6 times before i realized the gasket was the problem. So when ya buy the gasket look at it from the top on the front it should be a straight line from one side to the other. If it curves down around the front carb bolts it wont seal.
autowizard said:
I sware, that has got to be the problem im having. I drove this car 150 miles with this gasket and had no problems with it, and i was babying it home just to be sure i got there. When i got to my house i drove the sh*t out of it to test it out. Then i started idling up for no reason. Really, and i cant be quoted on this, but i think its only done this when i punched it around my neighboor hood. I have let the car sit overnight, and the next day the problem was still was there and sometimes its gone. Is it possible that the gasket doesnt always return to its original place? Maybe it gets trapped sometimes, if thats possible. Also, if what your telling me is my problem, are you saying that if i dont romp on it that i wont have to worry about this problem arrising again? Is it like, high vacuum sucktion created by high RPM's pulls the gasket out of place... and no more seal? I thank you very much for your post, because im almost sure that you helped me greatly.
A new 9 dollar gasket is cheap insureance if it fixes the problem then your done, if not then your in need of a carb rebuild kit. Another thing to check when you have the carb off make sure all the bolts are tight on the bottom side of the carb they have a tendancy to loosen up after awhile and may create a vacuum leak.
And yes after too many times of the gasket moving around it will break off and then you have a leak all the time. When you go to the parts house the gasket you are looking for will have plastic inserts on the bolt holes and its about 3/8 of an inch thick dont let them sell you the 99 cent gasket this one is about 9 bucks around here. I hope that helps
And yes after too many times of the gasket moving around it will break off and then you have a leak all the time. When you go to the parts house the gasket you are looking for will have plastic inserts on the bolt holes and its about 3/8 of an inch thick dont let them sell you the 99 cent gasket this one is about 9 bucks around here. I hope that helps
Well got around and took that old gasket off, I had found one in the garage somewhere that i was going to use for this but mine looks just fine. I traded it out for this other one that was about the same and tried it out, and after test driving it down the road it seems to have developed a high idle again, only after punching it. The gasket I took off was just like the one you say it should be. I dont guess that was the problem. So im back to the drawing board. I did happen to notice while i was watching the carb with breather off, no matter how much gas i give the car sitting still there the secondary butterfly never would open up. I thought i saw it twitch but never opened. Is that how its supposed to work? I was told about the high idle adjustment that it is set and that in this environment here in texas that i dont need it to work on the Highest Lobe of it. I dont really know all i know is that it seems to have a bad vacuum leak when you run the motor up to high RPM's and that leak doesnt go away for a while. Tomorrow ill check and see if its still revving or not. Just trying to get some more input on this to lead me in the right direction. Thanks... anyone
Ok, now its reved up way high. I cant even make the car come to a stop now all it does is spin my tires. Holding the brake just burns tire and im not touching the gas. LOL Tell me what this is? I know you probly cant from over the internet but im really stressing trying to figure this out.
- Status
Similar threads
