Engine Chosen..
- Thread starter gbodytoys
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First off, I want to thank you guys for responding. 6 pages is a lot for me to not have bought an engine yet. Just to let you guys know that I'm not making empty threads, I've narrowed it down to the ATK 351hp engine or the YearOne w/ Vortec heads. I have the money for that, but I'm still getting my mechanics installation funds. I also think I'm going to need another $500 just for miscellaneous stuff I might run into. I'm ALMOST thinking about waiting until I can get a 200r4 that's good up to 500hp, but then I wouldn't be driving my car until the end of August or something.
I'm swapping over from a 350 (3970014 - T0714CMJ)
Since money is a factor, I'll be reusing what I have, I'll just buy new hoses and pulleys. I'll read up on this forum and others on how to properly clean up existing brackets. I'll just spray them black. So if I go with the ATK or YearOne engine, I can get the hoses from the stock 305 motor for my car?
I read something on this forum once and it was brilliant. "Not that big of a deal...", "add this...", "do that..." = a heck of a lot more money lol. I'll keep it simple.
According to most 1/4 calculators online, this is correct, but I don't think it works like that. I've seen a bunch of new cars that advertise 300hp at the crank, but they don't run 13's, barely 14's. Tires, gears, etc.. I'm not a 1/4 nut right now, but I definitely want to run at least 13's with street tires. If not, then I'll have a reality check, and once my engine is out of warranty, I can have stuff changed later on.
Once again, thanks for your info guys, I'll be there while my mechanic does the swap, trying to learn and help out in any way I can, so I'll make sure to take pics.
I'm swapping over from a 350 (3970014 - T0714CMJ)
Since money is a factor, I'll be reusing what I have, I'll just buy new hoses and pulleys. I'll read up on this forum and others on how to properly clean up existing brackets. I'll just spray them black. So if I go with the ATK or YearOne engine, I can get the hoses from the stock 305 motor for my car?
I read something on this forum once and it was brilliant. "Not that big of a deal...", "add this...", "do that..." = a heck of a lot more money lol. I'll keep it simple.
According to most 1/4 calculators online, this is correct, but I don't think it works like that. I've seen a bunch of new cars that advertise 300hp at the crank, but they don't run 13's, barely 14's. Tires, gears, etc.. I'm not a 1/4 nut right now, but I definitely want to run at least 13's with street tires. If not, then I'll have a reality check, and once my engine is out of warranty, I can have stuff changed later on.
Once again, thanks for your info guys, I'll be there while my mechanic does the swap, trying to learn and help out in any way I can, so I'll make sure to take pics.
Yes hoses are the same between the two engines, you can use your existing thermostat housing, or buy a new shiny one with the same angle. As far as accessory mounting, your 305 AC, ALT, and PS should all mount to the 350. That being said the Edelbrock intakes I've used in the past for Vortec heads had all of the threaded holes for accessories, I don't know that ALL vortec intakes have them.
Your fuel pump and distributor will also work.
Are your headers 1 5/8"? If so they will be fine to use on the 350 as well, if they are 1 1/2" they will fit but will hurt power. In the future you would benefit from 1 3/4" headers.
I would find out if ATK can supply the correct size flexplate if you are planning to buy a flexplate with the motor. It will save you the expense of a new starter, unless you need one anyway. To determine which flexplate you have now look under your car at the starter bolts, if both bolts are side by side you have a 153 tooth flexplate, if one bolt is ahead of the other you have a 168 tooth flexplate. Your existing flexplate will not work with the Vortec 1 piece rear main seal engines.
I would have them supply the balancer as well. Yours will work but its probably old.
I have a notebook completely filled from when I was planning my swap, I had specs and prices for every engine I was considering as well as a complete list of parts and prices needed to install each in my car, then a list of variations for each. It can be a tough decision and for the money being spent you want to make the RIGHT decision, so ask all the questions you need we'll answer them if we can.
Your fuel pump and distributor will also work.
Are your headers 1 5/8"? If so they will be fine to use on the 350 as well, if they are 1 1/2" they will fit but will hurt power. In the future you would benefit from 1 3/4" headers.
I would find out if ATK can supply the correct size flexplate if you are planning to buy a flexplate with the motor. It will save you the expense of a new starter, unless you need one anyway. To determine which flexplate you have now look under your car at the starter bolts, if both bolts are side by side you have a 153 tooth flexplate, if one bolt is ahead of the other you have a 168 tooth flexplate. Your existing flexplate will not work with the Vortec 1 piece rear main seal engines.
I would have them supply the balancer as well. Yours will work but its probably old.
I have a notebook completely filled from when I was planning my swap, I had specs and prices for every engine I was considering as well as a complete list of parts and prices needed to install each in my car, then a list of variations for each. It can be a tough decision and for the money being spent you want to make the RIGHT decision, so ask all the questions you need we'll answer them if we can.
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just to clarify, the ATK comes with:
Intake Manifold Included:Yes
Cylinder Heads Included:Yes
Distributor Included:Yes
Oil Pan Included:Yes
Valve Covers Included:Yes
Timing Cover Included:Yes
Water Pump Included:Yes
Harmonic Balancer Included:Yes
Flexplate Included:Yes
I don't have a stock 305, I got the car with a 350 already in it. (This is day one when I got it, the wires and all that crap had been cleaned up since)
It was all good until...
Intake Manifold Included:Yes
Cylinder Heads Included:Yes
Distributor Included:Yes
Oil Pan Included:Yes
Valve Covers Included:Yes
Timing Cover Included:Yes
Water Pump Included:Yes
Harmonic Balancer Included:Yes
Flexplate Included:Yes
I don't have a stock 305, I got the car with a 350 already in it. (This is day one when I got it, the wires and all that crap had been cleaned up since)
It was all good until...
LOL nice window in the block, must make it way easy to change the oil. 305, 350, 283 , 267, 400 they are all Gen1 SBC and the parts will all interchange. Yes you also have a 7.5 rear. You can see the fangs hanging down off the housing just under the bottom bolts that holds the diff cover on ( the 8.5 is squared in that area )
Nows a good time to take off your pullies, alternator, brackets, ect. Clean them up, paint them, and cook them at 200 deg a couple times to get them really dry. It makes a really big difference in how long the paint holds up.
This is what my pile looked like last spring. Took a couple days between calls at work
Nows a good time to take off your pullies, alternator, brackets, ect. Clean them up, paint them, and cook them at 200 deg a couple times to get them really dry. It makes a really big difference in how long the paint holds up.
This is what my pile looked like last spring. Took a couple days between calls at work
Wow, that looks great. If you don't mind, what did you use to clean them up? Do you mean...literally cook them, like in a oven? lol. Excuse my ignorance.
Depending on how dirty they are you can use Simple Green or Purple Power to get all the grime off. I use gasoline ( a little dangerous I know ) to knock the heavy grime off first then cleaner. Oven cleaner will also help lifting the old paint too if you want a nice uniform finish ( like on a nice flat valvecover ).
Then sand, prime with a good rattle can etching primer ( NAPA sells them ) and make sure that primer is dry at least 1 full day before 2 coats of engine enamel paint. You cant rush the paint process. It may feel dry but if its layed on too thick the undercoat does not cure. It will look good for a couple weeks or months then start to crack and flake off from the heat / duty cycles. Don't forget all the nuts and bolts too.
To get it up to 200deg I have an 5' x 7' flat oven at work made for flash drying coatings on signage but in the past I have used a Propane BBQ or even a home oven. The fumes STINK so don't use your moms while she is home or if you don't have at least couple hours to air the place out LOL. I have found that the 150 -200deg mark is all that's needed. I preheat and put the part in. Then get the whole part ( think waterpump ) up to temp in about 15-20 mins and cut the heat letting it cool naturally in the oven. After a couple heat cycles the paint is hard and dry ready for the next coat. The parts in the pics above have 2 light coats of primer and 3 light coats of paint.
The BBQ Smoker guys have tons of ideas to build a box and control the heat from 100- 200 deg.
Then sand, prime with a good rattle can etching primer ( NAPA sells them ) and make sure that primer is dry at least 1 full day before 2 coats of engine enamel paint. You cant rush the paint process. It may feel dry but if its layed on too thick the undercoat does not cure. It will look good for a couple weeks or months then start to crack and flake off from the heat / duty cycles. Don't forget all the nuts and bolts too.
To get it up to 200deg I have an 5' x 7' flat oven at work made for flash drying coatings on signage but in the past I have used a Propane BBQ or even a home oven. The fumes STINK so don't use your moms while she is home or if you don't have at least couple hours to air the place out LOL. I have found that the 150 -200deg mark is all that's needed. I preheat and put the part in. Then get the whole part ( think waterpump ) up to temp in about 15-20 mins and cut the heat letting it cool naturally in the oven. After a couple heat cycles the paint is hard and dry ready for the next coat. The parts in the pics above have 2 light coats of primer and 3 light coats of paint.
The BBQ Smoker guys have tons of ideas to build a box and control the heat from 100- 200 deg.
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